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Discussion starter · #201 ·
Thats a good thought. I just sent the first Mod I found a PM to see if they can help. Im glad this thread has helped so many people, I just wonder how many dont take the time to read past the first page or two. Most of the good information in in the later pages.
 
rlouder,
can you write your stack down, in order it's installed, with shim thicknesses? Then we could be able to tell what to expect from it.
 
rlouder,
can you write your stack down, in order it's installed, with shim thicknesses? Then we could be able to tell what to expect from it.
It's a '10 drake, so I assume it's just like mullens on page 1. I was looking through the pdf to see what to try before I take the damper out. They only made one model of the drake in 10, so I can't imagine it would be different from his.

I'm looking for better hs small bump absorption if you want to point me in the right direction. The drake's stack looks much stiffer than anything in the pdf except the dj, so I may just remove a big shim and see what happens.
 
I'm looking for better hs small bump absorption if you want to point me in the right direction. The drake's stack looks much stiffer than anything in the pdf except the dj, so I may just remove a big shim and see what happens.
Yes, removing a big (platform) shim is a good start.
You can also play with platform shim preload washers.
 
Discussion starter · #207 ·
Removing a platform shim will help if you want to try something without buying any shims. But if you dont use the compression as a lock out, I would suggest adding a velocity shim to reduce the platform feel and in return, allow for more oil flow through the shim stack.

Something like trail stack # EK-012611-03

If you reeeaaallly dont care about about platform, A stack from the linear series would give you the best small bump compliance. I used a linear stack for a while and loved it.
 
This is a great post.
What set up will you use in a Manitou Tower Pro 100mm for a 220lbs rider on a 29 HT that will mainly be use for XC
It comes with the firm spring, should I get the Xfirm and what shim configuration will be the best?
 
Can anyone confirm whether Tower Pro comes indeed with the XC stack?

This is what I supposed in a previous post, but I have no official information. Has anybody inspected their shim stack?

Tower Pro will be my next fork, and so I'm curious ;)


--> UPDATE:

Just wrote to Manitou's customer service asking this question.

In very few minutes they answered that usually Tower Pro's come with the Trail stack. However, some distributors in Europe have ordered them with the XC stack.

Difficult to say it for sure, so. I don't know if this is true in the US as well. Anyway, it's likely that your stack is trail-tuned, not XC-tuned.

P.S. Once again Manitou's support has been unbelievably quick! Great!!
 
its not listed. My best guess is because my drake is a 2010 and the guide is from 2011.
Took mine out yesterday. My '10 drake came with one of xc stacks from the pdf: two .008 platform shims.

With only one installed, it has the reduced platform I'm looking for, but it's too soft after it breaks. Time to order some shims.

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100mm

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Discussion starter · #212 ·
Took mine out yesterday. My '10 drake came with one of xc stacks from the pdf: two .008 platform shims.

With only one installed, it has the reduced platform I'm looking for, but it's too soft after it breaks. Time to order some shims.
how much travel does your drake have? I feel like mine is a freak. :lol:
 
2011 Minute Expert

Finally pulled the HSC stack from my 2011 Minute Expert to see what shim stack i have. Turns out it came stock with the XC stack, not the Trail stack.
I had a total of 2 shims on top of the piston (diff than the OP) & the normal 1 below like the OP.
Just thought i'd share.
I haven't opened my 2011 Minute Expert yet, as I have been pretty happy with it till now, but I think mine has the XC stack (instead of the trail stack) as well.

I say this because platform is very strong. When in the "MAX" position (highest LSC damping) it's completely locked-out--it seems almost impossible to move the shaft!

I bought this fork aftermarket, from an online shop, but it might well be that it is an OEM unmounted from another bike frame--don't know whether this can explain the difference in shim stack.

I'll have a look into the HSC soon when I'll service that fork. In the meanwhile they're going to ship me my new 2012 Tower Pro. Now that I have a better understanding of how dampers work and of the characteristics I'm looking for, I'll be experimenting different shim stacks on this new fork. Hopefully I'll find my ideal setup.

Thanks to all for the wealth of information you guys posted on this thread! :thumbsup:

UPDATE:

I've finally opened my Abs+ damper, and I confirm what I suspected--I have the XC stack (one small clam shim, followed by two platform shims and the piston).

Unfortunately I cannot experiment with different stacks at the moment, cause I was superficial when I first tried to remove the compression damper, and now my LSC adjustment doesn't work anymore, as reported here and in the following posts.
 
Anybody have any info on adjusting the rebound stack? I'm thinking about trying to speed up the high speed rebound a bit while slowing the low speed down a tad. Just remove a shim? I haven't been in the damper yet to see what's there... 2011 Minute Pro fork, fwiw.
 
Discussion starter · #215 ·
Anybody have any info on adjusting the rebound stack? I'm thinking about trying to speed up the high speed rebound a bit while slowing the low speed down a tad. Just remove a shim? I haven't been in the damper yet to see what's there... 2011 Minute Pro fork, fwiw.
Rebound tuning is a lot different then compression tuning. When tuning compression, there are a lot of different variables at play(size of rider, size of hit, speed of hit, shape of obstacle...) When tuning rebound, the number of variables is much less because the only force that needs to be controlled is the spring, which generally speaking, is a consistent force. When a fork nears the end of its stroke, the spring force is much higher. This is the point at which the HSR shims will open. This is why HSR is often refereed to as ending stroke rebound by manufactures. The term "ending stroke rebound" is not technically accurate, but it helps people who do not understand the technical aspects correctly set up their rebound.

When it comes to tuning rebound on a fork, Manufactures tend to get it set up pretty well because its not as complicated. Extremely light riders who use very little air/light coil springs can benefit from removing a shim since the spring rate is much lower. Extremely heavy riders can benefit by adding a shim to compensate for the higher air pressures/ heavier coils. In most cases its not needed.

This is only the case for forks though. Rear shocks have the added variable of leverage ratios and this is when rebound tune becomes very important, and manufactures dont necessarily get it right.

Hope that helps:thumbsup:
 
TPC vs. Absolute vs. Absolute+

This is why ABS+ is better compared to TPC and not the original ABS which was a true platform style damper. (and why Manitou calls it TPC technology, Absolute+)
How does a platform-style damper (like the old Absolute) work, when compared to a shim-focused damper (like the old TPC and the new Absolute+)?

Is there any doc explaining the difference between old TPC, old Absolute, and new Absolute+?
 
Old Absolute is entirely different from either TPC or Absolute+. Instead of shims, it has a spring loaded needle-shaped piston. The top knob adjusts preload of that spring. Once pressure created by rebound rod entering the damper at compression stroke exceeds that preload, the piston opens and Absolute works like an orifice style damper.

TPC is different from Absolute+ in that it doesn't have a raised edge on the top of its piston, against which platform shims could be preloaded, so it cannot create platformness.
 
Discussion starter · #218 ·
How does a platform-style damper (like the old Absolute) work, when compared to a shim-focused damper (like the old TPC and the new Absolute+)?

Is there any doc explaining the difference between old TPC, old Absolute, and new Absolute+?
I never had the old ABS damper, so cant comment on how it works. In most cases, Platform style dampers have a spring that holds the LSC port closed. When oil pressure builds, the spring is pushed back opening the LSC port, and allowing the fork to move. Control of the threshold(point at which the port opens) is done by controlling spring tension on the spring that holds the valve shut. Lots of variations on how this is done, but thats the basic design of platform style dampers.

TPC is pretty much the same design as ABS+. ABS+ just has a few tweaks to the system that allows it to work a little better, and give it more options for tuning. I believe the TPC damper didnt allow you to preload the shim stack.
 
Thank you both for your sharing!

You speak of preloading platform shims. What does this mean?

As for Abs, if I understand it right, such an old damper had just one circuit, orifice-like, acting as both a LSC and a HSC?
 
Absolute+ platform shims have large enough diameter to reach that edge. When you tighten the nut that holds piston and shim stack assembly on damper shaft, the shaft, which is stepped above shim stack to a larger diameter, presses on the stack. This pressure deflects platform shims statically, so that their perimeters rest on that raised piston edge, and their centers are lower than their respective perimeters.

In contrast, speed shims and preload reducing shims have smaller diameter to avoid contact with raised piston edge. Any smaller shims placed below platform shims end up not preloaded.
 
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