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I'd pull all the tokens and run your sag closer to 20%. Fox forks do better around 15-20%. Too much sag and you end up running too deep in the travel against the steeper part of the curve.
Thanks Jeremy I've just removed the token and set sag to 20% with around 75psi in, I'm 75kg hopefully this will be better thank for advice.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
I'm 185lbs and intermediate rider. I've settled on 1 spacer and using Yeti's Fox 36 Fork Settings for my Grip2 via their website. Its working really well. Obviously you want to ensure your shock is setup well too (try Yeti's recommendation) otherwise it can screwup how the fork is working. I wouldn't pull the token out, I rode that for a while and it got a bit weird.

Out of interest what weight are you? And what psi you running with one spacer I'm struggling with thins fork and considering pulling token out, it's to harsh at moment over small rough stuff and I'm not getting any where near my full travel and I'm not far off 30% sag. Any help appreciated.
 
You'll want to slow rebound down when you increase pressure typically. Look up the concept of bracketing.
Don't know if it's just me but I just figured out that the rebound adjustment is actually the opposite on the fork to what it is on manual, so to make it fast it's clockwise and to slow down is anti clockwise , how strange.
 
I didn't find a better thread, and didn't want to start a new one.

So I weigh ~285 lb equipped, and had about a year ago a damper shaft broken of my rear shock. Was repaired by Fox on its last month of warranty. By then I used to ride with 280-290 psi. They asked my weight, and when the shock arrived, it had a green volume reducer. I've been riding since then, but bothers me that I never use more than 75-80% of the stroke, even if I set pressure to 240 psi. At that pressure the sag is about 50%, so no es bueno. Note that with no spacers I almost never bottom out.

So I 3d-printed a smaller reducer, installed and saw some improvement, but is not quite there yet. Also now I'm afraid of material degradation of the ABS plastic I used, in contact with oil. I have another sample soaked in oil, but is a matter of time until I forget to check it.

Since I don't want to buy a whole reducer kit just to get the small one, and I'm a bit worried that the reducer inside the shock may crumble, I'm thinking about cutting the green reducer, but I don't know if this is a common practice. Thoughts?
 
I didn't find a better thread, and didn't want to start a new one.

So I weigh ~285 lb equipped, and had about a year ago a damper shaft broken of my rear shock. Was repaired by Fox on its last month of warranty. By then I used to ride with 280-290 psi. They asked my weight, and when the shock arrived, it had a green volume reducer. I've been riding since then, but bothers me that I never use more than 75-80% of the stroke, even if I set pressure to 240 psi. At that pressure the sag is about 50%, so no es bueno. Note that with no spacers I almost never bottom out.

So I 3d-printed a smaller reducer, installed and saw some improvement, but is not quite there yet. Also now I'm afraid of material degradation of the ABS plastic I used, in contact with oil. I have another sample soaked in oil, but is a matter of time until I forget to check it.

Since I don't want to buy a whole reducer kit just to get the small one, and I'm a bit worried that the reducer inside the shock may crumble, I'm thinking about cutting the green reducer, but I don't know if this is a common practice. Thoughts?
Try it with no volume spacers and see if you need any at all. Also, might need to open up compression.
 
Try it with no volume spacers and see if you need any at all. Also, might need to open up compression.
When it broke, I used to ride with compression in mid position, and no spacers. Now I always use it fully open.

I'd like to have it not not reach full stroke, but close (90%), hence the belief I need some, but very small.
 
When it broke, I used to ride with compression in mid position, and no spacers. Now I always use it fully open.

I'd like to have it not not reach full stroke, but close (90%), hence the belief I need some, but very small.
Do you want to use less or more travel than you are currently using?
 
This is a graph that shows the effect that adding tokens and reducing pressure has on the shock. It will give you more support because the stroke directly following the sag point is stiff. This increased stiffness does also result in less small bump compliance conversely though. The point of tokens is to find the best compromise (for you) between support and compliance.

View attachment 1269109
The chart you posted shows less support. The red line doesn't cross the linear line until almost the end of the stroke. Until then, it's showing less spring force/support.
--

Step one for fox spring tuning is to remove the gallon of grease from the negative spring. It won't feel right until it's lightly greased with no globs.

I'm 215lb running a '19 f36 with 95psi, at 140mm with 4 tokens. It's just ok. I don't like the lack of mid stroke, but the off the top feel is about where I want it. Id need to compromise from here.

These forks really need a dsd runt.
 
Do you want to use less or more travel than you are currently using?
By design, my bike has 140mm of travel, but with the unreachable range of the shock, I'm effectively having 105mm (not counting sag). If I have ~125mm (~90%) I'll be happy. If I can get that with 25% sag, will be perfect.

"Why not removing all spacers?", you would ask. I used to ride without spacers, but Fox added one for a reason. That's why I'd like to have just enough to avoid bottoming out.
 
By design, my bike has 140mm of travel, but with the unreachable range of the shock, I'm effectively having 105mm (not counting sag). If I have ~125mm (~90%) I'll be happy. If I can get that with 25% sag, will be perfect.

"Why not removing all spacers?", you would ask. I used to ride without spacers, but Fox added one for a reason. That's why I'd like to have just enough to avoid bottoming out.
Yeah, I'd run no spacers and see how it feels. Fox put a spacer in there for the average rider. I'd try the easy free option first.
 
Yeah, I'd run no spacers and see how it feels. Fox put a spacer in there for the average rider. I'd try the easy free option first.
So I did.

After removing all spacers and with 50 psi only, I cycled the suspension, and I think I found something weird. If I just put my weight, the suspension will bottom out, but the force to compress ~60% is significantly less than compressing the remaining 40%. It's not getting progressively more resistant, there's a clear transition between one stage and the other. That is with the damper fully open.

Haven't tested on the trail, will do tomorrow. But I suspect it will compress a little above 80%. If that's the case, I'll use it without spacers from now on.
 
I'm 185lbs and intermediate rider. I've settled on 1 spacer and using Yeti's Fox 36 Fork Settings for my Grip2 via their website. Its working really well. Obviously you want to ensure your shock is setup well too (try Yeti's recommendation) otherwise it can screwup how the fork is working. I wouldn't pull the token out, I rode that for a while and it got a bit weird.
this is what yeti say for my weight dose this look right? The lsr looks really fast , is this how your settings are? Maybe slightly different cause weight difference. Cheers.
1923715
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
You know, its hard to tell and I'm far from an expert. My fork seems to work well for my average skillset. That being said, those settings you are looking at are likely for newer iterations of the 36. I think the spring changed a small amount as did the damper (more significantly). So different than what my fork would experience (which is from 2019 iirc). The good news is that this is usually a solid starting spot for people. Go take some laps and have a couple of options for setup handy on your phone. So...try out Yeti's...then try out the Fox defaults, then try out Pivots and see which you prefer best. I like that idea because it means you aren't just stumbling in the dark with the settings. Just adding clicks here and there isn't good methodology in my experience (if you aren't highly experienced). This is because all of the damn things work together like pulleys on a rope. When you adjust the LSC...that will adjust not just the LSC but also at what point and the amount of force when the HSC is engaged and vise-versa. Also in the mix is your fork. Its like a baja rig. If you stiffen up the rear...it'll put extra forces on the front and get out of whack, but if it's not your expertise you might just think the entire problem is your fork. Good luck

this is what yeti say for my weight dose this look right? The lsr looks really fast , is this how your settings are? Maybe slightly different cause weight difference. Cheers.
 
So I did.

After removing all spacers and with 50 psi only, I cycled the suspension, and I think I found something weird. If I just put my weight, the suspension will bottom out, but the force to compress ~60% is significantly less than compressing the remaining 40%. It's not getting progressively more resistant, there's a clear transition between one stage and the other. That is with the damper fully open.

Haven't tested on the trail, will do tomorrow. But I suspect it will compress a little above 80%. If that's the case, I'll use it without spacers from now on.
If you're feeling a lot of ramp up with low pressure, have you checked if the lowers are pressurized?
 
If you're feeling a lot of ramp up with low pressure, have you checked if the lowers are pressurized?
This is the shock, not the fork.

Tested today, with no spacers I got some 2mm more than with spacers, without sacrificing sag. That is about 85% of the suspension. I guess that's the best I can get.

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