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Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

 

Thanks, but that doesn't really address my question.

 

After tossing in the cost of a new 10-speed shifter, you could have bought a Mamba instead. Much better bike all around.
Stick with what you have and start saving for your next bike.

 

Well its actually the same frame as the mamba, and the components aren't really that much better. I would still be looking to replace certain things with that bike, things I have already replaced on my wahoo. I'm a commuter though, so something simpler and easier to maintain is appealing. I see no negatives besides losing a larger spectrrum of gears.

 

If you can, try to ride a few bikes with 1 x 10 gearing first. I've got a 1 x 9 set up on the 29er I just built and I like, but need to make a few changes to it. I used some old parts and the old 9 speed 11-32 cassette is not enough for me. I also went with a 32t up front and should have gone with a 28 or 30t cog for the terrain I ride and my strength level. You may need to buy some sort of chain guide or tensioner to keep the chain on also. If you ride in a hilly area, I'd go w a 28t up front.

The other recommendation to save up for a new bike may be a better idea, especially if you're considering a new crank too. If you make this change and don't like it you'll end up needing to spend more to get it right.

 

The other recommendation to save up for a new bike may be a better idea, especially if you're considering a new crank too. If you make this change and don't like it you'll end up needing to spend more to get it right.

Yeah, thats valid too. But I could always just put the old stuff back on, and use the parts for a new bike or something. I'm trying to get my hands dirty a bit and learn the difference first hand. Having ridden 3 chain ring bikes forever, I've realized I only use one chain ring. The only thing else I really should do is test ride a couple differently toothed bikes. But thanks for the tips on ring sizes.

 

Wow, a 2013 bike with 8 speed? And from the specs, it looks like a crankset without replaceable rings.
I think I'd order a Alivio crankset for about $40 and either a single speed chainring or even better one of the new narrow-wide chainrings.
You will need to shorten the chainring nuts or order single speed ones.
Remove the front derailleur and shifter, shorten the chain and give it a try. If it works for you, keep an eye out on Craigslist etc for 9 or 10 speed takeoff's.

 

just go 1x8. all you'll need is a singlespeed front ring, ss bolts, and a chainguide. these you'd have to buy anyway going to a 1x10, but they're on the cheap side of the equation.

as clicker1 mentioned 10sp stuff ain't cheap, and if you start throwing a bunch of money at this bike you'll be upsidedown on it in a hurry.

either way you go, there's no need to swap your crank. if you do so, make your crank choice because the crank/bearings are an upgrade rather than simply because it's a ss crank. no real benefit in doing so. many, myself included, use high end multi ring cranks for ss.

 

either way you go, there's no need to swap your crank.

Op will need to confirm but it looks like that bike comes with a riveted crank - non-replaceable chainrings.

 

I just got my new Tallboy LTc two days ago with the SRAM XO1, which is a 1x11 system. It comes with a 34t on the front and the cassette goes all the way up to 42t. I took it out yesterday and so far I'm really liking it. It's simple, has great chain stability, and the XO1 shifter is very very good. I tried piecemeal upgrading a bike once, I'll never do that again. I too would recommend trying some different setups and then saving up for a new bike that comes with whatever gearing you're looking for.

 

either way you go, there's no need to swap your crank.

Op will need to confirm but it looks like that bike comes with a riveted crank - non-replaceable chainrings.

good call. should have looked it up first.

if it's got a riveted crank i stand corrected, as they will need to be changed to go to a ss ring.

that being said and especially taking the crank issue into consideration, i agree with others that the money would be more wisely spent on a bike upgrade though. especially after looking it up. i mean no insult by that, but at that price point it will be a diminishing return unless you can do it for about $60 or less total. imho your money would be better spent saved to go towards a better bike that has the features that appeal to you. you'll end up with a much better bike for much less $$$ outlay. :thumbsup:

 

good call. should have looked it up first.

if it's got a riveted crank i stand corrected, as they will need to be changed to go to a ss ring.

that being said and especially taking the crank issue into consideration, i agree with others that the money would be more wisely spent on a bike upgrade though. especially after looking it up. i mean no insult by that, but at that price point it will be a diminishing return unless you can do it for about $60 or less total. imho your money would be better spent saved to go towards a better bike that has the features that appeal to you. you'll end up with a much better bike for much less $$$ outlay. :thumbsup:

Hey no insult taken, its a solid intro bike. And no the crank is not riveted. Can swap all rings, (and though they are totally great, just about any crank I put on there is an upgrade).

Consider this though.

If I bought another bike with the config I would want (1x10), my budget would essentially buy me another entry level bike, with components that I would still like to upgrade, leaving me with 2 bikes below where I'd like them to be, which doesn't help me out. I bought my bike as an upgrader bike, full well knowing that the frame will be the weakest link in a couple years after what I would likely put on it. I'd probably then buy a used/or new Trek Superfly Frame 2-5 years down the road when I'm looking for the next step up. It's so far been a fun journey, and every time I upgrade even small components, I feel re inspired, or more in touch with the effect those components can have on my ride, so I don't want to sacrifice that by just by buying a new one. I'm not done digesting this one (or outgrowing it). Also I own a second beater bike, and don't have that kind of room in my apartment for a 3rd.

Considering I know I can get cassettes, derailleur, and chain, for around 250 (that being a substantial upgrade in quality from the 30 dollar components (mind you totally fine) that make up that system right now), that just leaves me with the decision of upgrading cranks too, and looking for an affordable chain guide. Probably looking at (hopefully) under 400-500 bucks for the whole budget of the upgrade.

I understand everyone is genuinely offering their advice, but its like giving someone tips for parachuting the first time, and you advice ends up being "don't do it".

I Appreciate any help anyone has given so far though. I've been trying to track my favourite ratios to find what 1x10 ratios are closest to what I like about my current setup.

What I'm really trying to attract are people who have done this upgrade, who might have specific feedback in terms of what components they used, problems they had, anything that helps me narrow down the correct components.

I'm not sure I'm gonna jump out of the plane myself just yet, but I sure would like to hear about anyone else who has already safely landed on the ground.

 

I have gone to 1 x 9 and the two problems I have had are the gearing ratio and chain retention. I just bought a black spire chain tensioner to resolve the chain drops. If you want or need a super cheap option Google DIY chain tensioner and you will find instructions to build one out of an old reflector. I've tried this and it seems to work. Little noisy though. For your back cassette, I'd go w something that has a 36t.

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I'm in the process of going to 1x10. I started out on a 3x7, went to 3x8, then 3x9, then 1x9, moved everything to a new frame, and now I'm just waiting on a chain to swap everything out for 1x10.

Buying a singlespeed-specific crank really doesn't make much of a difference. 3x cranks are designed so that the middle ring gives an optimal chainline, and that's the one you'd want to use anyways. Plus, it leaves the outer slot for mounting a bash guard if you want one. I'm still using the same Deore LX crank that I got when I changed to 3x9 (my original crank was a riveted Suntour that was falling apart). The advice I got when crank shopping was to get the cheapest Shimano Hollowtech crankset I could find, so I went with an LX I found for $60. It works just fine with a single ring. Since you have a crankset with replaceable rings, I'd just stick with that one until it dies. I'm running a 32T Narrow Wide chainring.

Cassette: I'm using a Deore XT 11-36. Anything is fine really - the main differences are weight and the way the cogs are mounted (higher end cassettes put the larger cogs in bundles with a single spider for multiple cogs. This reduces cosmetic damage to aluminum freehubs). As far as ratios go, 11-36 is probably the most versatile, but I've been fine with my 11-34 9 speed cassette as well..

Derailleur: get one with a clutch (SRAM Type 2 or Shimano Shadow Plus) and match your shifter brand to your derailleur brand. SRAM and Shimano don't play nicely on rear derailleurs. Combined with a Narrow Wide ring (Race Face, Wolftooth Components, SRAM XX1/XO1), you'll have excellent chain retention without a chain guide. My current setup has had one dropped chain so far with only the Narrow Wide chainring and no clutch derailleur.

 

I'm in the process of going to 1x10. I started out on a 3x7, went to 3x8, then 3x9, then 1x9, moved everything to a new frame, and now I'm just waiting on a chain to swap everything out for 1x10.

Buying a singlespeed-specific crank really doesn't make much of a difference. 3x cranks are designed so that the middle ring gives an optimal chainline, and that's the one you'd want to use anyways. Plus, it leaves the outer slot for mounting a bash guard if you want one. I'm still using the same Deore LX crank that I got when I changed to 3x9 (my original crank was a riveted Suntour that was falling apart). The advice I got when crank shopping was to get the cheapest Shimano Hollowtech crankset I could find, so I went with an LX I found for $60. It works just fine with a single ring. Since you have a crankset with replaceable rings, I'd just stick with that one until it dies. I'm running a 32T Narrow Wide chainring.

Cassette: I'm using a Deore XT 11-36. Anything is fine really - the main differences are weight and the way the cogs are mounted (higher end cassettes put the larger cogs in bundles with a single spider for multiple cogs. This reduces cosmetic damage to aluminum freehubs). As far as ratios go, 11-36 is probably the most versatile, but I've been fine with my 11-34 9 speed cassette as well..

Derailleur: get one with a clutch (SRAM Type 2 or Shimano Shadow Plus) and match your shifter brand to your derailleur brand. SRAM and Shimano don't play nicely on rear derailleurs. Combined with a Narrow Wide ring (Race Face, Wolftooth Components, SRAM XX1/XO1), you'll have excellent chain retention without a chain guide. My current setup has had one dropped chain so far with only the Narrow Wide chainring and no clutch derailleur.

10/10 for this comment. Would bang. You've given me lots to look into!.

But keep chiming in everyone else!!