[dmichaels10]

Looking for a service manual for a DVO Topaz Gen 1 shock if anyone has a link or could send me one that would be much appreciated.

It's on a V1 Ripmo Af and all the links on the DVO website now take you to the newest version of the shocks services manual the T3.

Thanks

 

[Klous1]

Looking for a service manual for a DVO Topaz Gen 1 shock if anyone has a link or could send me one that would be much appreciated.

https://dvosuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/topaz_gen_1_full_service.pdf

 

[nwberm]

Updated link for Marzocchi service manuals

Marzocchi | Suspension | Product & Service Manuals

Owner's Guides Marzocchi Bicycle Fork Owner's Guide Marzocchi Bicycle Rear Shock Owner's Guide Tuning Guides Bomber 58 Bomber Z1 Bomber Z1 Coil Bomber Z2 Bomber DJ Bomber CR Bomber Air Tuning Guide Volume Spacer Installation Service Procedures Remote Info 2020 Grip Remote Topcap Interface Part...

www.marzocchi.com

 

[ajriding]

Fox Float EVOL 2025 shock.
I just want to change the oil.
I rebuilt the air can and saw on Fox that the oil can be user changed, but it requires a lot of special tools (to rebuild). I just want to change the oil. do I still need all these tools? If so, which ones as some seem specific for changing out parts that I hope can stay put while the oil is drained and filled.

 

[Mr Crudley]

Fox Float EVOL 2025 shock.
I just want to change the oil.
I rebuilt the air can and saw on Fox that the oil can be user changed, but it requires a lot of special tools (to rebuild). I just want to change the oil. do I still need all these tools? If so, which ones as some seem specific for changing out parts that I hope can stay put while the oil is drained and filled.

Most of that looks to be for an IFP service - Internal Floating Piston that uses a nitrogen charge.

You won't need to touch that for an air can service. I generally leave the IFP alone and get that serviced by a shock specialist. Saying that I've have only done it once or twice in many years of riding. If the shock is starting to sound a bit squelchy or thicker oil oozes out then you might need an IFP service. An IFP service is past my pay grade

 

[ajriding]

thanks, but umm no. It is not nitrogen, it is user serviceable with regular shock pump but needs air valve adapter. Thanks for trying. I am asking about oil change. do not collect $200 but thanks for playing.
Im talking about current shocks, not ones from yrs ago. Float shocks are different.
If you ride you need to change the oil. Fresh oil makes it work better, there is no oil filter in the shock, it needs fresh oil.
I did oil change on my 3 forks and they all feels so much better.
I used lighter in forks oil than spec and now I dont have to run my dials out to zero, feels like I have adjustments now, but that is for another story. Float shocks are different.

Anyone???

 

[Mr Crudley]

thanks, but umm no. It is not nitrogen, it is user serviceable with regular shock pump but needs air valve adapter. Thanks for trying. I am asking about oil change. do not collect $200 but thanks for playing.

Well, just trying to help you out. This is what free help on the internet looks like, but sure doesn't seem to be worth the effort. Oh well.

The air can in a Fox Float rear shock uses a few mls of Float fluid, or a similar assembly fluid, for lube along with a lick of slick honey on the o-rings and wipers etc. The oil in the rear shock is inside the shock body for the IFP and/or the piggy back reservoir if it has one. The nitrogen charge on the other side of the IFP piston. Lots of oil should not be in the air can unless something bad has happened.

Im talking about current shocks, not ones from yrs ago. Float shocks are different.

Right, like this Fox rebuild procedure of a current Float shock that shows the IFP oil change and nitrogen recharge which apparently doesn't exist because Floats are different or something. Step 13 and 15.

2016-2024 FLOAT DPS and 2024-2026 FLOAT SL Rebuild | Bike Tech Help Center | FOX

tech.ridefox.com

This idea hasn't changed much across several generations of Fox air shocks.

I did oil change on my 3 forks and they all feels so much better.
I used lighter in forks oil than spec and now I dont have to run my dials out to zero, feels like I have adjustments now, but that is for another story. Float shocks are different.

So it is about forks and not a rear shock, but you also have a list of tools needed to service a rear shock.
Float forks are not float rear shocks. Forks do not use an IFP. Current Float forks will have oil in the lowers and the sealed dampening cartridge oil that will need to be changed instead.

You need to RTFM.

 

[ajriding]

Well, just trying to help you out. This is what free help on the internet looks like, but sure doesn't seem to be worth the effort. Oh well.

The air can in a Fox Float rear shock uses a few mls of Float fluid, or a similar assembly fluid, for lube along with a lick of slick honey on the o-rings and wipers etc. The oil in the rear shock is inside the shock body for the IFP and/or the piggy back reservoir if it has one. The nitrogen charge on the other side of the IFP piston. Lots of oil should not be in the air can unless something bad has happened.


Right, like this Fox rebuild procedure of a current Float shock that shows the IFP oil change and nitrogen recharge which apparently doesn't exist because Floats are different or something. Step 13 and 15.

2016-2024 FLOAT DPS and 2024-2026 FLOAT SL Rebuild | Bike Tech Help Center | FOX

tech.ridefox.com

This idea hasn't changed much across several generations of Fox air shocks.



So it is about forks and not a rear shock, but you also have a list of tools needed to service a rear shock.
Float forks are not float rear shocks. Forks do not use an IFP. Current Float forks will have oil in the lowers and the sealed dampening cartridge oil that will need to be changed instead.

You need to RTFM.

thanks, I got to help you out a little too.
Im working on a shock, not a fork, and I have read their instructions, and those do use air not nitrogen. My question is about changing oil only, not a total rebuild which the Fox site only shows. I know I can just skip steps, but before taking shock apart id rather hear from someone that has done a shock or two. Is it something that does not need all these special tools is a big part of the question. Looks like I already need a $40 air adapter tool....
No need to contiune discussing it but thanks for a reply. If I hurt your feelings send a dm and not post for all to read.

 

[nwberm]

thanks, I got to help you out a little too.
Im working on a shock, not a fork, and I have read their instructions, and those do use air not nitrogen. My question is about changing oil only, not a total rebuild which the Fox site only shows. I know I can just skip steps, but before taking shock apart id rather hear from someone that has done a shock or two. Is it something that does not need all these special tools is a big part of the question. Looks like I already need a $40 air adapter tool....
No need to contiune discussing it but thanks for a reply. If I hurt your feelings send a dm and not post for all to read.

Well...technically nitrogen is more than 75% of the air, so there is that.

 

[Talrand]

I've just installed my new 2022 Factory 32 SC Float 29 100 and it's behaving weirdly.
It started off very stiff regardless of the pressure I set it to. I thought it just needs a lower service if it sat on the shelf for a long time and dried out (this worked on my RS fork).
The cleaning and relube did very little. What I noticed is that the extension of the air shaft is 'controlled' by the pressure. It makes sense that when I added air it extended, but when I released air the shaft retracted and wouldn't move down. I'm assuming it's not normal and even at 0 psi the shaft should stay extended. From some googling (which lead to a couple MTBR threads) it seems like an issue with negative and positive chambers not equalizing.
Does that sound like a problem I can fix on my own? I'd take it to a shop but the nearest appointment I can get is in 2 weeks.

 

[kona-n]

if you don't know what you are doing take it rather to the shop.
If you still want to try it out yourself, you will need 10mm socket wrench and rubber/wooden mallet. Release pressure from the fork, turn the fork upside-down so you don't lose oil in the process, unthread the nut on the lower leg so you have about 2mm space between it and lower leg, then hit it with mallet, you might hear that some pressure gets released. Now remove the nut and don't lose crush washer below it in the process. Pump the fork so stanchion gets fully extracted. Now pull lowers few millimeters out so you get rid of negative pressure (you will hear it), then push it back. Put ideally a new crush washer under the nut and torque it to specified torque (usually 50 in/lb or 5.65 N-m)

 

[wb3jma]

A lot of this stuff is out of date and or broken links, can we get this updated by someone who knows their stuff with suspension?

 

[kona-n]

tell us which info or link you need and you might get the content. It's too boring and time expensive for someone to go over 11 pages of this thread and "fix" all links.

 

[ajriding]

The newer forks, within the last ten years, all take 20 weight oils, but I only had 10 weight and used it. For xc for this worked fine as the speeds and hits were lower, but I still had to run the rebound almost all they way closed. For a trail bike 10 is almost too light, it does work on xc'ish trails/downhills, but for a fast hard-hitting trail at least 15 wt is needed as I cannot dampen the fork enough with the adjusters. All of this is weight dependent too of the rider. A light rider will run lower psi thus can get away with light oil because the lower psi is equally resisted by lighter oil.

 

[englertracing]

The newer forks, within the last ten years, all take 20 weight oils, but I only had 10 weight and used it. For xc for this worked fine as the speeds and hits were lower, but I still had to run the rebound almost all they way closed. For a trail bike 10 is almost too light, it does work on xc'ish trails/downhills, but for a fast hard-hitting trail at least 15 wt is needed as I cannot dampen the fork enough with the adjusters. All of this is weight dependent too of the rider. A light rider will run lower psi thus can get away with light oil because the lower psi is equally resisted by lighter oil.

20w is bath oil used for lubircating the bushing/stancion interface, and should not be in the damper therefore not effecting damping. NOBODY is using 20w in the damper. There is an ideal weight for lowest friction for a given bushing clearance and temperature, if 20w was hypothetically ideal for the conditions you could actually experience higher friction from a lower viscosity, now this would be likely not detectable, unless you went from a very slick 20w to something like a 0w with no friction modifiers and some nasty sticky vi modifiers, and would likely be still a small difference, my point is that..... this is reality runs contrary to your perception.

 

[kona-n]

Does anyone know for which part of service of Vivid/Kage 00.4115.185.000 vise blocks are used? I checked all service manuals and there is no mention of any step for which you would need this particular vise blocks.