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There was a very valid question about shock choice posted earlier that got blown off. Most manufacturers typically apply a specific tune to their bikes based on the suspension design properties. Is there any resource that one can reference that shows these properties for the chinese frames? The pro mance 9007 or similar bikes are very interesting to me but I am somewhat concerned that I would not enjoy the ride from a shock with the stock tune.
 
I received my frame from Tideace a week ago or so and have started building it. Right off the bat, I was impressed by the frame's structure. Also happy a wide 2.2" tire on a 30mm ID rim has plenty of clearance in the 27.5+ boost frame!

However, there were some issues.

1. Derailleur hanger was broken during shipping. They sent a new one, so now I need to wait 2 weeks again.

2. No bushings included (which is OK), but with the correct ones installed (50mm bottom and 21.8mm top) there is some play in the system. Dropping the bike on the rear wheel results in some rattling. Will have to look into this.

3. Seat angle is NOT as steep as it should be. It should be around 74* with a 100mm fork. I am running a 130mm fork, which means it should be 72-73*. But right now it is pretty much 68*. This is not good for me, as I have long legs! The saddle in the picture is quite a bit lower than it should be for me still.

Will keep you updated.
 

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Are you measuring the angle of the imaginary line that is the straight line between the centre of the BB and the centre of the saddle rail clamp?

Or are you measuring the angle of the seatpost?
 
There was a very valid question about shock choice posted earlier that got blown off. Most manufacturers typically apply a specific tune to their bikes based on the suspension design properties. Is there any resource that one can reference that shows these properties for the chinese frames? The pro mance 9007 or similar bikes are very interesting to me but I am somewhat concerned that I would not enjoy the ride from a shock with the stock tune.
Yeah this is a valid question, but here's my humble opinion FWIW. Every rider is different and has different needs, so no matter how frame-optimized kinematics may be, they are assuming every rider is the same. Ultimately it's how *YOU* want your suspension to feel. I took my setup on dozens of rides on dozens of trails while experimenting with different setups. I enjoyed the process, and ultimately was very satisfied with how my shock was working with the frame.

I ride the Pro mance 9007 and settled in on a shock tune on my Fox Factory DPS 6.5" x 1.5" at around 160 psi, that's the way I like it and it fit my weight, style, and local trails really well. It felt just like my buddy's Spark. No worries there!
 
2. No bushings included (which is OK), but with the correct ones installed (50mm bottom and 21.8mm top) there is some play in the system. Dropping the bike on the rear wheel results in some rattling. Will have to look into this.
Great looking start to your build! It looks to be a sweet frame and you're definitely solid on the specs.

I had the same issue with some play in the shocks. First off, kudos on getting the right bushing kits (first time around, I'm assuming). Took me 3 tries and $30 of wasted money in Fox bushing kits. I'll blame my naievety, not much excuse from my side.

Anyway, I still had a very small amount of play between the Fox bushing and the pocket bolt provided with the frame. It's like it wasn't a true M5 bolt. One thing I always wanted to try was getting the M5 titanium pocket bolts from Aliexpress (Risk brand), but I sold everything off and am on to another build project. Hope you can solve that play issue, and post up when you do!
 
Stealth dropper mod on fm036

hi all,

Just an update on my well worn Fm036, which i've now modded with a dropper post.

First step was too feed plumbers tape from head tube through to seat tube exit with aid of a vacuum cleaner. The bottom bracket stays put because the shell is a sealed unit and the tape passes through the hollow juncture of seat tube and downtube just above.

Next, attach cable outer to plumbtape and pull through frame.

I then marked out the position and profile of the pushfit grommet i was going to use to run the internal cable. Next was to drill 3 small pilot holes within the area marked progressively making them bigger with different drill bits until they merged as one.

Smooth out the rough hole to fit your grommet and remove burrs.

Fish out the cable outer and set up your grommet before feeding the wire cable through outer for your dropper set up. Push home grommet for a tight fit.

Grommets are Orange Bicycles internal cable guide spare parts.

I don't feel the frame is compromised as i've done the coin tapping for fracture test before and after a ride and all is well. This is all I have to go on plus I don't envisage this being a stressed area for a small hole.
 

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However, there were some issues.

) there is some play in the system. Dropping the bike on the rear wheel results in some rattling Will have to look into this.

Will keep you updated.
hi

For me ,solving rattling back end of my FM036 when you lift bike up or set it down meant adding shims alongside the bushings at each shock eyelet.
 
A lengthy update on my 21" Tideace FM-XC181 from AliExpress.

I have now gone on two 50km rides on my new build and must say I am impressed with the frame's performance. I weigh 88kg (194lbs) with my kit and have really tried to put some stress on the frame - for as far as that's possible on the relatively flat Dutch trails.

I am running the frame with a Fox 34 130mm fork, resulting in this old/ new geo:

Manual measurements seem to correspond quite well with those numbers.

I think the long 14cm headtube and the amount of material there enables the longer fork to work without risk of frame damage. The seller, Derek, said 130mm is the maximum permitted anyway.

Before I talk about other points, let me share some pictures of the build!






I took a risk and ordered the 27.5+ boost frame option to fit my 29" wheels - no problem! I am running 30mm internal rims with Bonty 2.2 XR1/ 2.3 XR3 Team Issue tires. The XR1 has heaps of clearance left, I reckon a 2.4 will fit well with sufficient clearance.

The entire build comes in at around 11.9kg, which I am happy with. I find the suspension design works well for me in combination with the Manitou Mcleod shock with 140psi. Love the feeling of it, still getting used to the out-of-saddle sprinting with a FS bike...

Of course, there are some issues.

Firstly, use the outer cable along the whole frame - I cut it into parts, but the included plastic cable stops are not strong. Shifting gears resulted in the cable pulling through the weak cable stop, thus I had to use the outer cable along the whole inner cable.
This does result in internal cable rattling during riding :nono:. I am still thinking of a solution.

Secondly, there is some play in the rear suspension linkage despite tightening the screws down well. See the following two videos:
1:
2:

However, this is not at all noticeable during riding - the linkage movement does not involve this lateral movement.

Thirdly, I cannot remove the screw through the largest bearing (see image below). I disassembled every part to grease the bearings, but this one I could not get out with any force.


Finally, the 'cup' design under the shock is plain stupid :D
Any gunk collects there and forms a little pool.


The downtube also doesn't have a hole to let water inside the frame out. You can see the internal cable stops are not at the bottom of the frame, and you can see I used electrical tape to limit the amount of cable inside the frame. But the rattling was still there.


At the moment I am very happy with the bike :thumbsup:
Main specs are:
FM-XC181 21" frame, boost, color 11
Fox 34 130mm Performance fork
Manitou Mcleod 165 x 38mm shock
DT Swiss 29" XM481 rims with Wheel-Tec hubs and Bonty XR1/ XR3 tires
Sram X0 carbon cranks, Absoluteblack 34T oval
Shimano XT 180/160 brakes
XT shifter and derailleur
Sram XG1150 10-42 cassette
740mm handlebar, 70mm stem, seatpost all carbon from Aliexpress
Falcon Pro carbon saddle

Sorry about the lengthy post, I wanted to share as much information as possible with all of you. Hope it is useful!
 
What is the lightest dual suspension 29er for 2019 out there, any ideas?
Well, none of us know what's on the radar for 2019 until these guys decide to go for it. You have to realize it's sometimes just 2-3 weeks between when a team gets together and decides on a project until the marketable prototypes start coming off the molds. If you really want to take a stab at the future, email agents at ICAN, Hongfu, Dengfu, Pro-Mance, TanTan, and XM-Carbon Speed. My guess is they are as clueless as you are. It's all a matter of what they get there hands on.

Right now, it's the Pro-Mance ultralight T800/T1000 M9007. See my long thread in 29er forum for info on that. I've moved on, but that's what's lightest. About 200g more than a Scott Spark RC frameset and similar geo.
 
Well, none of us know what's on the radar for 2019 until these guys decide to go for it. You have to realize it's sometimes just 2-3 weeks between when a team gets together and decides on a project until the marketable prototypes start coming off the molds. If you really want to take a stab at the future, email agents at ICAN, Hongfu, Dengfu, Pro-Mance, TanTan, and XM-Carbon Speed. My guess is they are as clueless as you are. It's all a matter of what they get there hands on.

Right now, it's the Pro-Mance ultralight T800/T1000 M9007. See my long thread in 29er forum for info on that. I've moved on, but that's what's lightest. About 200g more than a Scott Spark RC frameset and similar geo.
If you don't mind me asking, what was the price of your frame delivered?
 
Sorry about the lengthy post, I wanted to share as much information as possible with all of you. Hope it is useful!
Awesome write-up; thank you.

One complaint I have had is the lack of frame cable stops on the open market. If there was a selection, you could replace those grommets with cable housing stops and stop the rattling.

For one hardtail frame that I modified for side swing fd, I had to order cable stops from Ukraine! They worked well though.
 
Guys, I'm trying to resolve a problem with play on my latest built. I'm already using RWC needle bearings but I can't find a solution.
Please let me know if you have suggestions
 
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