[mtnbiker4life]

Do you mean integrated headsets? I'm not familiar with fixed bearing headsets...a quick Google search led me to integrated headsets, is that what you mean?

The bearings in King and some Cane Creek headsets are not removable so when you use the Park Cones it presses right on the bearing which most likely will cause the bearing to fail. This is why both Cane Creek and King makes special press adapters to place the installation forces on the outter part of the bearing assembly.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

The bearings in King and some Cane Creek headsets are not removable so when you use the Park Cones it presses right on the bearing which most likely will cause the bearing to fail. This is why both Cane Creek and King makes special press adapters to place the installation forces on the outter part of the bearing assembly.

Then you'd use the adapters. It's literally the same cup guides as the Park tool. As I've said, this will do whatever the Park tool can do.

 

[mtnbiker4life]

Here is a cross section picture to what I was trying to say

 

[bad mechanic]

You don't have to worry about the adapter when you just use big ass washers.

 

[jc1surf]

Hello fellas,
want to begin by saying thanks for all the great tips in this thread. W/ all your awesome diy for hs press, i did my very first hs install fsa pig, price $2.60 for bolts n washers and $5 for beers. well worth the $2.60.

i agree too, alignment is key, what i did was reversed the rod, baby tapped under the cup, it realigned it then repeated the process.
i have a question though. The bottom cup went in flush, but the upper cup went in straight till i cant add anymore torque to it. but it's not flush flush. seems to be like, i want to think 0.5mm if not less, thats just not going in anymore.
would this be a concern , should i keep repeating the process until its flush flush way in there? ( there wasnt any chunk or uneven paint on the face, its evened and inside the ht has no paint.

thanks for any and all advice and tips,

and to orig post, sorry if this is some sort of thread jacking... if so let me kno, still a noob here. correct me if im wrong.

thank you fellas.

 

[bad mechanic]

Did you face your head tube prior to installing the cup?

Did you make sure there was a chamfer on the inside edge of the head tube?

 

[jc1surf]

thanks for the reply bad mechanic, i was told by 2 LBS did not need to be faced if the top was flat meaning no paint gunk around the ht or face region and inside
and at the edge of the face, there is a 45* slight going into the headtube.
would taking a very fine sandpaper type going around the inside of the headtube help?

i did however used a piece of wood during the press, might not have been the strongest. so im going to try with/o the woods and use just the washers ontop of cups.

thanks again for your time and help bad mechanic. any and all tips r well appreciated.
JC

 

[bad mechanic]

The two shops were wrong. Just because there isn't paint present doesn't mean the head tube has been faced or that it doesn't need to be faced. Have the head tube faced and reamed to make sure it's not an issue.

You want to make sure that 45* chamfer goes all the way around the inside edge of the head tube. If it doesn't use a half round bastard file to add it.

Unless the head tube is slightly undersized (which facing/reaming would fix) just having the wood there shouldn't have been a problem.

 

[jc1surf]

:thumbsup::thumbsup:..
thank for the tips. I gave it a go, and now all flushed and dandy. now its ready for the bearings.
proper prep and alignment is sooo crucial as the previous posts stated.
i've noticed while pressing, if the top and bottom nuts begin to shift sideways, it can cause the cups to go in uneven.

again, proper set up, alignment, patience & more patience and good prep is the key.

thanks again badmechanic....

:thumbsup:

 

[bad mechanic]

What was it, exactly?

 

[jc1surf]

What was it, exactly?

The main reason was the tool(wood). So i analized why there seemed to be offset pressing. I inspected the press i made and found that the wood was being pressed hard, underneath the washers wasn't flush anymore. I was using softer wood :nono: Since I did bottom cup first, it had already taken it's first toll of pressing/pressure on the wood.
Therefor causing uneven pressing pressure onto the top cup at the last 1-2mm therefor, causing one side to be flush and the other side .5mm not flushed. I stopped tapped the cup out a bit evened out everything, got a nice solid piece of wood, and repressed. Now it's even pressure all around and sitting in flush. It seems the most pressure is when it's at under 5mm left in the cups being flush w/ the ht, when most torque is required.

Took it to lbs to check, they said it looked perfect flush, top &bottom. :thumbsup:

The DIY press set is amazing. it took me longer than expected but
Make sure to definitely inspect everything while pressing in a cup and stop when something just doesn't feel right. That .5mm just didn't feel right, something was causing not to be pressed in flat. If the woods were not the reason, I would have had the lbs remove/reinstall it. NOt worth destroying the frame.

make sure to get wood thicker stronger, more washer, careful inspection and understanding of directional pressure/pressing & to check NOT only the cups as they go in, but alsooo to check the wood, washer, bolt position parallel to ht and so forth as the process goes.
good luck.
i stopped once i noticed about 1-1.5mm started to not go parallel.
thanks again bad mechanic for your awesome tips:thumbsup:

 

[bad mechanic]

Just get rid the wood entirely. There's no reason to use it.