[MTB_Underdog]

Don't know if you got it out yet, but another way to use brue force is with a set of vice grips. If you can clamp the bolt on the shaft below the head with the vice grips perpendicular to the bolt you can tap with a hammer and get a stuck bolt to move.

 

[LMN]

Don't know if you got it out yet, but another way to use brue force is with a set of vice grips. If you can clamp the bolt on the shaft below the head with the vice grips perpendicular to the bolt you can tap with a hammer and get a stuck bolt to move.

Don't know if you got it out yet, but another way to use brue force is with a set of vice grips. If you can clamp the bolt on the shaft below the head with the vice grips perpendicular to the bolt you can tap with a hammer and get a stuck bolt to move.

When I was dealing with this I used had to use some needle nose vice grips to clamp the bolt and then clamped some vice grip perpendicular to hammer on. It actually worked pretty darn well.

 

[Cleared2land]

Necessity is the mother of invention

 

[tommyrod74]

I'll update once I get it off the frame, thanks all for the ideas.

 

[02_NRS]

could be the bolt has seized to the shock mounting reducers.if they spin while turning the bolt this will confirm.if so use a vise grip to keep the reducer from spinning and turn the bolt to break the bond.using a light oil to seep onto the bolt will help.

 

[jeffbinco]

All this talk of hammering lateral to a carbon fiber tab gives me the sweats. At the very least want to support the face of the frame mount to oppose the force of pulling the bolt out. Perhaps levering the bolt head against the frame mount would be safer? Use thin wood or metal to pad the frame mount tab and pry up against the back of the bolt head.

I'm imagining the ol' padlock vs two open-end wrenches trick.

 

[Curveball]

New bike time.

 

[TylerVernon]

All this talk of hammering lateral to a carbon fiber tab gives me the sweats. At the very least want to support the face of the frame mount to oppose the force of pulling the bolt out. Perhaps levering the bolt head

Same here. I wouldn't do any hammering on my precious Pivot. If it was a specialized I'd hammer it.

 

[jeffbinco]

Same here. I wouldn't do any hammering on my precious Pivot. If it was a specialized I'd hammer it.

If it was a Specialized, the frame would have broken long before the shock.

 

[tommyrod74]

All sorted now, thankfully. Thanks to all those who shared their thoughts.

The shock bolt was not bent but (as suggested above) a blob of Locktite had bonded the bolt shaft to the bushings.

 

[syl3]

I just dealt with an extreme case of this. Carbon frame (Canyon Torque)

Tried all sorts of drilling and penetrating oils and whatnot but it all failed. Finally I had to cut vertically through the bolt and shock bushing (on both sides) without touching the frame. the RS Super Deluxe shock got a few scratches on the rebound knob but is still working decently.

I used one of these tools, with an extra narrow blade (made with angle grinder). Took about 3 hours.

 

[Cleared2land]

Wow
That seems pretty extreme

 

[syl3]

Wow
That seems pretty extreme

It was either that or accepting that the frame and shock are mated for life.

 

[rapsac]

All sorted now, thankfully. Thanks to all those who shared their thoughts.

The shock bolt was not bent but (as suggested above) a blob of Locktite had bonded the bolt shaft to the bushings.

Nice to read that the story ends well. On using Loctite on the bolt, better not. It is advised (by Pivot actually) to apply the Loctite on the female threads in the frame with a cotton swab and not on any threaded bolt. This avoids bolts getting stuck in (glued to) shock reducers or bearings by spilled Loctite during assembly. Had a similar issue myself on my Mach 4SL with a DWlink bolt before I picked up on this trick.

 

[teK--]

All sorted now, thankfully. Thanks to all those who shared their thoughts.

The shock bolt was not bent but (as suggested above) a blob of Locktite had bonded the bolt shaft to the bushings.

When i assemble a similar blind shock bolt on mine, i apply loctite to the female surfaces (a toothpick works well) and lightly grease the non threaded shank of the bolt. That way loctite and grease don't mix and you also don't get the bolt bonding to the bushing.