I've got them both on different bikes. Had air and coil Kitsuma (settled on the coil) and the X2.

They're both lovely to ride, and the adjustment makes a noticeable difference.
HSR on the X2 is almost impossible to use on the trail due to my frame design (shock tunnel near the BB).

Kitsuma is more silent. And the adjustment is child's play.

The climb switch on the Kitsuma is amazingly effective. In the climb setting it's hardtail stuff almost. Yet open and trail are still supportive and plush / active.

The choice is personal but Kitsuma for me.

 

I've got them both on different bikes. Had air and coil Kitsuma (settled on the coil) and the X2.

They're both lovely to ride, and the adjustment makes a noticeable difference.
HSR on the X2 is almost impossible to use on the trail due to my frame design (shock tunnel near the BB).

Kitsuma is more silent. And the adjustment is child's play.

The climb switch on the Kitsuma is amazingly effective. In the climb setting it's hardtail stuff almost. Yet open and trail are still supportive and plush / active.

The choice is personal but Kitsuma for me.

Thanks for the input, just the sort of feedback I'm looking for.

Between Kitsuma air versus coil, why did you go with the coil version? Would like to hear your reason on this too. Please compare the 2 version, is the coil that much better in dealing with fast small bumps versus the air?

 

Sure, I found air to be lovely. Really poppy, supportive and responsive as well as plush.

The coil whilst weighing more is definitely more responsive, especially OTT. It gets moving with almost no force and that means the rear is pinned to the ground for traction. I had a mate behind me on a particularly chunky trail just astounded at how settled it was. "Your back wheel never left the ground!" Is what he said.

Climbing is still really good as you can dial out any bob / oscillation with the LSR / LSC. It might be a bit better with air but on the bike I'm using it climbs well enough.

After owning both and swapping back and forth i rode them back to back on the same trail extensively and just preferred how the coil felt. You do of course need to nail the spring rate. As I'm 107kgs ready to ride I tried about 3 spring rates before landing and loving the middle one.

The coil should also need less servicing due too

 

what spring rate did you go with? and is it the Valt progressive one? I'm 67kg ride-weight and i wonder if a 400# progressive spring is enough? or too much? I don't think Cane Creek sells anything less than 400#, so this is a major factor for me if I were to go with coil and needing a lighter spring.

 

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned are experts in mountain bike and bicycle suspension service and repair, including setting-up the for you and your bike

www.tftuned.com

Is what I used to get a decent spring rate.

The manufacturer recommended 600lb, I tried 650lb and went all the way to 708lb (Ohlins spring)
Then settled down on 650lb. I could probably ride 600 and it would just need more compression dialled in.

Use the link above and see if you can get the details in there. Shock travel and frame travel in mm and your weight as well as the suspension type and your preference (DH or AM)

 

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned

Spring Calculator - TF Tuned are experts in mountain bike and bicycle suspension service and repair, including setting-up the for you and your bike

www.tftuned.com

Is what I used to get a decent spring rate.

The manufacturer recommended 600lb, I tried 650lb and went all the way to 708lb (Ohlins spring)
Then settled down on 650lb. I could probably ride 600 and it would just need more compression dialled in.

Use the link above and see if you can get the details in there. Shock travel and frame travel in mm and your weight as well as the suspension type and your preference (DH or AM)

Using the spring calculator, I need a 347# spring. The lowest Cane Creek has is a 400#, which fits a 77 kg rider (geared up), that's a 10 kg heavier than me, which is a lot.
Makes me think that the Kitsuma coil isn't really tuned with the light riders in mind, i.e, light riders will not see the same benefits as heavier riders.

 

I would be shocked (pun intended) if your local shop actually rebuilt the shock. Outside of an air sleeve or lower service nearly all shops send suspension out to a factory service center or major rebuilder.

 

The Path Bike shop here can do a full factory rebuild

Services & Repair

Fast turn around on jobs — Call us at 714-669-0784 for the current turnaround time on the service your bike needs. Scheduled appointments — Book an appointment so you don't have to be without your bike for very long! Call or text us to schedule an appointment. We have a vast inventory of service...

www.thepathbikeshop.com

 

I’m not sure which direction you are from Jenson, but Jax bike shop in Murrieta and Fluid Focus in San Marcos are Cane Creek service centers as well. If you want easy to service at home take a look at the Manitou Mara Pro. It’s cheaper than the Cane Creek Kitsuma DB air, and I think it is a slightly superior shock. I’m currently on a Cane Creek Kitsuma DB air, but was on a Mara Pro until my Stumpjumper ate it a few months ago. Manitou provides a great step through service guide and no need for nitrogen. It looks like Jenson’s new service center supports Manitou as well, but other than them, sending back to Manitou is the only other option that I know of. Manitou service costs $50 per hour plus parts.

edit: I plan on going back to the Mara Pro on my next bike, hopefully this summer.

 

thanks for the info. I'm in OC so San Marcos is an option since I go to San Diego a lot too.

 

Admin Delete. Double post.

 

Forget the TF tuned calculator the spring rates are way off.... they put me between 75 and 100lbs lighter than PUSH and Yeti recommend. Imo the Tftuned and also the FOX calculator are way too soft. Tf tuned shows 360lb rate for me..Yeti shows 425lb and PUSH suggest 450lb. I'm currently on a 425lb though could run 400lb for something super supple and less bottom out resistance but 360lb would be ridiculously soft.

 

Seems like we've had different experiences. TFtuned calculator worked for me but I checked with the frame manufacturer and shock manufacturer to be sure...

 

I'm gonna email Cane Creek and Yeti to see what they recommend. I know some are running coil on the yeti sb130 and they all love it, but thing is they are all heavier than me, and it just seems that just about any big guy will say they like coil better. Then there's the "placebo" effect where people with new toys will just say they love it. Me being a lighter person, and seeing that Cane Creek doesn't offer a spring lighter than 400#, I'm question if their Kitsuma product was designed with lighter rider? and if so, then why is no lighter spring being offered?

I'd imagine a 200 man versus a 100 woman can't possibly use the same damper valving. Or is the Kitsuma valving so flexible that it can accomodate both 100lb and 200lb person? My concern is spending $800 for a shock that ultimately may be worse than the stock shock if I cannot get the right spring/damper setup.

 

I'm gonna email Cane Creek and Yeti to see what they recommend. I know some are running coil on the yeti sb130 and they all love it, but thing is they are all heavier than me, and it just seems that just about any big guy will say they like coil better. Then there's the "placebo" effect where people with new toys will just say they love it. Me being a lighter person, and seeing that Cane Creek doesn't offer a spring lighter than 400#, I'm question if their Kitsuma product was designed with lighter rider? and if so, then why is no lighter spring being offered?

I'd imagine a 200 man versus a 100 woman can't possibly use the same damper valving. Or is the Kitsuma valving so flexible that it can accomodate both 100lb and 200lb person? My concern is spending $800 for a shock that ultimately may be worse than the stock shock if I cannot get the right spring/damper setup.

I have a sb150 with a coil. The sb130 has less progression built into the linkage than the 150, and I feel like I still don't have enough progression on my sb150. I would not recommend a coil on sb130 for this reason, although I have not tried it. I honestly think the 150 is not a good fit either.

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Update:
so I called Yeti and talk to one of the guys there. Asked for his opinions on the sb130. Here's the summary of our convo.

He said that there are a few guys at Yeti HQ who have tried coil on the sb130. Some liked it, some don't. Those who liked it are running the Push Elevensix, which happens to be the most expensive shock at $1300 and the most specifically tuned shock. Those who run other coil shocks (but not Push) don't like it because it blows thru the travel too quickly. Of all the Yeti models, he said the sb130 particularly has a mixed reviews from the guys at HQ regarding air vs. coil application. Guys who like pop and jump prefer air shock, guys who like their bike planted and plow like coil.

Honeslty now I'm more ambivalent than ever regarding coil vs air on the sb130 because of a mixed bag reviews! lol. At least on the sb130, the decision to go coil is not an automatic "no brainer".

Couldn't talk to any Cane Creek rep because they were closed. I will definitely want to know from them if their Kitsuma with a 400# progressive spring is apt for my body weight. If they say no and that I need a lighter spring (which they don't sell), then Kitsuma coil is a no-go for me, in which case I'll just get the Kitsuma air.

 

Just spoke with a Cane Creek rep. Rep told me that at my (ride) weight of 145 lbs, I'd need a 370# spring. Their VALT progressive spring starts at 400# and ramps up to 488# which is too much for me. And since they don't sell any Valt progressive spring under 400#, they suggested that I get the regular 400# linear spring.

Rep also told me that the Yeti sb130 frame has a really linear leverage ratio which is designed for an air shock, and rep told me that the Kitsuma air may be a bette choice, but said it really depends on rider's preference too.

To be honest, I'm not 100% clear on which to go with, coil or air. But because I'm a lightweight, I'm leaning towards air.

Ideally, I would like to test out both shocks and then choose, then I don't get to do this unless I wanna buy both shocks, which is not gonna happen.

So guys, let me hear what you think. I'm mainly a trail rider. I don't huck. Socal trails here are mostly loose, can be steep and loose. Lots of small chatty rocks. I don't huck much. I mainly roll over bouldders, which can be 2 feet high (anymore than 2 ft I tend to avoid rolling down). Yes I need to climb, but Kitsum has a climb switch. If you were me, would you go coil or air?

 

I'm not a big jumper but do jump and do some drops up to 6', and quite a few steeps and ime coils just don't work unless you have a lot of progression. A progressive coil spring isn't the solution. Neither is too much damping.

A coil will work well for you on this bike if you don't jump at all but ride really loose chattery conditions. The linear shock would track better. Otherwise you should definitely be on an air on this bike.

GL

 

Air would be my vote given what you've stated.

 

Yeti designed that bike for an airshock, the shock manufacturer recommends their air model, and linkage design shows a nearly linear rate which says an air shock is the proper choice. Seems like there should be no question

Yeti SB-130 29'' 2020

En esta entrada voy a analizar a la nueva Yeti SB-130, un modelo de Trail que en teoría reemplaza a la Yeti SB4.5C aunque en este caso el r...

linkagedesign.blogspot.com

 

At 145 you would likely be better off with a custom tuned shock vs any off the shelf shock regarding performance.

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good input folks. So, looks like air shock is getting the nod, and like I said I'm leaning towards air too.
It seems that coil, on this bike, is only great for a limit condition: loose chattery suraface without drops under than 2 feet.
While I don't huck big features, but hey I do like to have fun and pop on the smaller ramps that the kids put up on the trail

 

It's pretty well documented that progressive coil springs don't really work in the intended manner and they just end up operating like a 2 rate spring.
There are reasons many (i.e. Avy, EXT, etc.) specifically recommend against them.
Maybe it's just because air shocks are valved specifically to deal with the air spring ramp up, whereas coil shocks aren't valved to work with a progressive spring.

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It's pretty well documented that progressive coil springs don't really work in the intended manner and they just end up operating like a 2 rate spring.
There are reasons many (i.e. Avy, EXT, etc.) specifically recommend against them.
Maybe it's just because air shocks are valved specifically to deal with the air spring ramp up, whereas coil shocks aren't valved to work with a progressive spring.

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A lot of air and coil shocks these days are valved the same.
See this tune drawing from Fox. Used in the 2021+ FLOAT X2 and DHX2: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/help/page1134-WMQ0/805-05-444-KIT.jpg

I think most people are looking for mid-stroke support where the progressive coil springs are wound to give more end-stroke support and leave you with a soft mid-stroke.

 

hey folks, OP here.
Just want to give a little update to this thread.
So went ahead and got the Kitsuma air. Previous shock was the Fox DPX2 air. Overall, the difference between the 2 shocks are not day and night. The Kitsuma has a higher volume air can, and I have to run it 10-15 psi lower to get the same sag. I'm 140-142 lbs geared up (yep, I've dropped a weight), and I have to run the Kitsuma pretty much all the dials almost at full "open" to get the compliance I want. It's apparent to me that the Kitsuma is valved for the "average American male" weight which I'm guessing somewhere in the 175+ lbs? When i send the Kitsuma in for a rebuild, I will as the rebuilder to lessen the damping a tad by removing some shims? I do notice an improvement in traction when going over washboard though, on the DPX2 the rear end would bounce more than with the Kitsuma. Overall, I'd say I'm happy with the Kitsuma. Now only paid $400 for the Kitsuma, but if I had to pay full price out the door ($700), then I'd say not worth it, stay with the Fox DPX2. The DPX2 is not a bad shock.

 

I went from a Factory DPX2 to Kitsuma as well. The DPX2 was smoother off the top, but the Kitsuma (even with my Kitsuma's air spring progression not being where I want it) it was better on rougher higher speed trails. Which I suppose is what counts in the end.

As for revalving...I'm not sure what they can do. I'm sure they can do something but it's not about removing shims. The latest update on the HSR damping is I think lessening the preload on the HSR spring but that's about it. There's no talk about the compression damping. It was suggested to me to run the LSC, HSC fully open and to run the HSR almost closed and the LSR wherever it felt best. But I'm also about 215lbs so it'll be different for you.