The characteristics of a good torque wrench is independent of MTB and cycling.

First, you get what you pay for.

I prefer American made, Wright Tool out of Ohio is what I use. I have 3 drive sizes 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2"

We talk about this frequently here: https://www.mtbr.com/search/1952689/?q=torque+wrench&c[showFilter]=visibleOnly&o=relevance

 

The characteristics of a good torque wrench is independent of MTB and cycling.

First, you get what you pay for.

I prefer American made. I have 3 drive sizes 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2"

We talk about this frequently here: https://www.mtbr.com/search/1952689/?q=torque+wrench&c[showFilter]=visibleOnly&o=relevance

Who makes one in the US?

 

For low torques I really like the Park tool ATD-1.2. It's simple and prevents over torquing bolts.

 

Effeto mariposa 2-16 cover pretty much all needs, you would still need a higher torque wrench for drivetrain effeto mariposa makes one 20-60 and works both left or right so great for BB

 

You optimally need two, they don't have endless range. One 1/4in drive for ~0-20Nm and one 3/8in drive for ~20-60Nm. For bicycles it's best if they're bi-directional for stuff like pedals, bottom brackets, derailleur hangers.

As far as which one I wouldn't agonize too much over it. You're not building a space shuttle or even a motor Bikes aren't that complicated, things don't expand with heat etc.. Even in the exceedingly unlikely event that you get a dud that's 20% off you'll be putting 6Nm into your carbon bars instead of 5Nm - it'll be ok.

The Park Tool beam style aren't too expensive and should serve you well.

 

My name is Rick and I'm a Wera addict.

 

they need to expand their safe torque line of wrenches as well as add a reversible wrench! They definitely make great tools!

 

I have a Shimano one because it was on closeout and a Harbor Freight for higher torque values. Both do torque wrench things well enough. My bike is gonna take me to space one of these days.

 

My bike is gonna take me to space one of these days.

And we're gonna make the Flat Earthers pay for it.

 

Many lower end torque wrenches are useless IMO

 

Regarding price, if you do an internet search you'll find comparison tests of various brands (and prices). From what I've seen, there is not a perfectly positive correlation between price and accuracy.

I have a small Park, a medium Wera, and a big Husky. I think keeping them calibrated probably matters the most.

You can also search this forum for other threads on the topic.

 

...there is not a perfectly positive correlation between price and accuracy.

There absolutely is. You can't achieve accuracy without regular calibration. Not all torque wrenches can be calibrated. The tools to calibrate torque wrenches are very costly. I used torque wrenches at the nuclear plant.

Getting back to hobby grade, while I doubt anyone will calibrate their torque wrenches. You will find a poorly made torque wrench is more dangerous than not using one at all.

 

My Topeak D-Torq is probably my favorite tool I've ever purchased. I use is so often I ended up just leaving it on top of the work bench in its case.

1-20 Nm range. Small enough to get into tight spaces on the bike. I can set it without having to go get my cheater glasses. Not cheap but I have no regrets about purchasing it. You'll probably want a ⅜" drive wrench too for bottom brackets, cassette lock rings etc. But the Topeak works for 95% of my daily needs.

 

+1

As a former mechanic, I decided to get the Topeak D-Torque DX (4-80nm) for my workbench at home. I wanted something that could do cranks/BBs and the 4-80 range means I could just invest in one good torque wrench rather than getting two. I also found that I prefer the audio tone to the "breakaway" type. Anything under 4nm typically fall into the "tight enough so the part doesn't slip" category - which I almost never broke a torque wrench out for anyway.

It was more of an investment than others, but it's a purchase I'd happily make again.

 

I like CDI and/or Snap-on for vehicles.

Don't know if they make a small enough version for MTB.

 

I like CDI and/or Snap-on for vehicles.

Don't know if they make a small enough version for MTB.

They definitely do. Mine are all Snap-On.

 

My torque wrenches are auto calibrated to the German spec.

.....

I did use a beam type for the 50-80 ft/lbs necessary when fitting extensions into receivers. But that is "blow yer face up" territory. So I took it cereal.

 

What you want is a good ole fashion US made torque wrench. Sure it probably has a tariff, but at least it’s Murican!

 

Clearly this is the best, everything else is cheap compared. Cleco PRW-1200-0110-WI I-WRENCH 1200

 

I picked up a Wera last year. Its real nice.

 

Project Farm on Youtube can be a good resource.

 

Keep in mind your needs as a home bike mechanic aren't the same as a full time paid mechanic of any variety. I think a lot of them are made by the same manufacturer with different branding. I just bought an inexpensive one on Amazon and was pleasantly surprised it adjusted much smoother than ones I've paid more money for. Brand was Lexivon and the yellow on black numbering was also MUCH easier to read than black on silver. You may need two wrenches depending on the range of torque values you plan to work with.

 

While I agree with you, I'll add a few caveats. I bought a cheap torque wrench off of Amazon, used it occasionally, but it mostly sat in it's case in one of my tool drawers (adjusted down to the lowest torque value). I noticed that it drifted out of adjustment over the course of a couple of years to the point that I really didn't trust it. This was one main reason for replacing it. Spending a little more for a torque wrench that will hold it's calibration for a longer period of a time might be just as worth it for a home mechanic.

The second is to be careful when buying on Amazon. Lexivon is an actual tool company and should have decent quality. A lot of what is found on Amazon now has the possibility to either be cheaply made or not have as stringent calibration/quality control checks (not all, but enough to give me pause). When you are buying a tool for precise measurements, the last thing you want is for something to have been missed in calibration or QC.

 

Capri makes excellent torque wrenches. The CP31200 1/4″ 30-150 in-lbs is probably what you want for typical bike related fasteners. I've been buying a lot of their tools over the past several years and have never been disappointed. The Capri wrenches measure in both directions which is awesome.

 

Hazel makes the best torque wrenches for MTB.

 

Warren and Brown deflecting beam 1-25Nm wrench.

 

I can send my CDI back to the factory for calibration

 

I wouldn't call CDI cheap in the grand scheme of things. Maybe not the stupid prices Snap-On charges, but not Pittsburgh, either.

 

Because I have done a few restomods on older cars, I usually use Snap On but a far less expensive brand with excellent accuracy is Tekton (find them easy on Amazon). I actually checked their accuracy on the 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch models and both were within 1% out of the box.

 

When I managed an auto shop, we had a few Tektons floating around. When one broke, I contacted the company, and they sent us a new one as soon as I had sent the claim form and the requisite photos of the wrench. Good customer service.

 

My right wrist is a pretty good torque wrench. I don't use a TW for cassettes, pedals, my car's lug nuts, etc, but I absolutely use them if carbon is involved or I'm unfamiliar with the application. Or if I'm replacing the head gasket on a car engine. I have two TWs for car applications, and I have two for bikes. My favorite is a 3/8 in. Craftsman wrench, looks pretty bulky but it'll easily click at less than 10 Nm, I use it for some bike fasteners. I prefer beam wrenches, as you don't have to calibrate them.

 

Skip Park. Best bang for buck for extremely high quality wrenches are Tohnichi CL-MH series interchangeable-head torque wrenches from Amazon Japan. 3% accuracy. I use a combo of those and Hazet.

 

I use Syntace by Wera, 1-25nm.

 

I'm a deflecting-beam bit-size torque wrench man myself for the low-torque stuff (2-10nm). After that I just move up to my 3/8 click wrench that I use for everything else and just do the nm to ft-lb conversion.