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Best Bang-For-The-Buck Full Suspension MTB...

75K views 61 replies 29 participants last post by  erol/frost  
#1 ·
Years ago, I remember the Giant Yukon FX being the one that won praise all
over the MTB rags as the best <$1,000. entry-level full suspension MTB bike.

For under $1,000. what is the best full suspension entry-level mountain bike one
could purchase today? Since then, has there been another bike to win that title?

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#3 ·
Looks good for the money.

FRAME
Sizes S (16"), M (18"), L (20"), XL (21")
Colours White / Red / Black
Frame AluxX SL aluminum, Fluid Formed TM 4.0"/100mm Maestro Suspension
Fork RockShox Recon Gold TK Solo Air, tapered steerer, 100mm travel
Shock RockShox Monarch R

COMPONENTS
Handlebar Giant Connect low riser
Stem Giant Connect
Seatpost Giant Connect
Saddle Giant Cross Trail D2
Pedals Not Included

DRIVETRAIN
Shifters Shimano Alivio 27 speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Alivio
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore Shadow
Brakes Shimano M445 hydraulic discs, 160mm rotors
Brake Levers Shimano M445
Cassette Shimano HG50 11-34
Chain Shimano HG-73
Crankset Shimano M542 22/32/42
Bottom Bracket Shimano Integrated Press Fit

WHEELS
Rims Giant S-XC2 DW aluminium
Hubs Formula
Spokes Stainless Steel
Tires Maxxis Crossmark 26x2.1"

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#10 ·
$2750 MSRP
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3900$ MSRP
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At less than 1k it is not worth getting a full suspension bike because the components suck and the bike is going to be really heavy. At that price-point it makes more sense to get a hard-tail, which your skills will keep improving on, until you are committed enough to invest more money. Carbon fiber is not intrinsically expensive, it is the lay-up process that is very expensive. Thus the best bang for your buck will be an aluminum frame. Specialized makes the best and lightest aluminum frame with their proprietary alloy. The two bikes I listed have very capable components, good suspension with air not metal springs, and the weight is reasonable. I would personally go for the elite because of the superior components and suspension. At mikes bikes the stumpy FSR elite is at $3500, stumpy fsr comp at $2500 and it will get even lower during their April sale. I don't have any affiliation with either of the companies I mentioned. In fact I bought an Ibis Mojo SL this fall instead of a stumpjumper fsr elite, which I might have gotten otherwise.

To sum it up, there are no good full-supsension bikes at under 1k; they all suck. Either get a hardtail or invest more money with an aluminum frame stumpy.
The preceding message was brought to you the big S. :skep:
 
#9 ·
Specialized makes the best and lightest aluminum frame with their proprietary alloy.
Sorry I don't agree with that statement.

I also don't agree that a FS rig under 1K is not worth buying. For example I can point out a 30 speed bike with Rock Shox fork and shock, 30 speed SLX/XT drivetrain, and Avid Elixir brakes for around that price point.
 
#18 ·
I have no affiliation with Mikes Bikes or Specialized. I am 18 years old and I outgrew the Trek Hardtail that I had since I was 11 and I needed I new bike. I have mountain biked since I was maybe about 6 years old, I can't quite remember.

Anyway, at first I was looking at bikes around 1k, and I came to the conclusion that the suspension would not be efficient i.e. lots of pedal bob and that the bike would be heavy and have worse components than a hardtail at the same price. However all the bikes I tried at performance cycles at about 1k weighed about 31 lbs and I wanted something lighter. I found the stumpjumper HT comp at mikes bikes at about 1700 and it felt good, had very superior components and only weighed 23.5 pounds. At this point I had already tried and Ibis Mojo at a bike demo and I thought it was clearly better than the Specialized Stumpjumper both in terms of geometry and suspension. I don't care for the FSR or brain. However, those bikes were theoretically out of my budget. I wanted to wait for Mikes Bikes to have a sale to get a lower price, but in the meantime I saw an Ibis Mojo SL that had been lightly used for only six months, which I thought was to good of a deal to miss. I bought the Ibis at 3k, and it was 5k only 6 months prior. It came in perfect condition and I had it assembled at Mikes Bikes.

I mention Mikes Bikes only because it is the one that comes to mind being on of my LBS. My experience with the specialized hardtail being way lighter than other hardtails and seeing that they curve the tubes of the frame led me to believe that they made a very good lightweight aluminum frame.
 
#28 ·
2011-12 Slayers.

Around $2 000 for a Slayer 30 and up to $5 000+ for a 70. But frame is the same. That's why I'm getting a frame only to transfers my current parts.

Maybe over 1k, but I'll says that so far it's the bike (talking about the frame, because you put whatever you want, XTR on a Wallyworld bike don't make it race worthy whatsoever ) that has show the best in AM category in my researches.

Geometry, quality, design, and price. I'd even consider the Slayer over the SB-66 right now in my situation (not for the price, but performance for my riding style).

And it's damn sexy.
 

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#29 ·
2011-12 Slayers.

Around $2 000 for a Slayer 30 and up to $5 000+ for a 70. But frame is the same. That's why I'm getting a frame only to transfers my current parts.

Maybe over 1k, but I'll says that so far it's the bike (talking about the frame, because you put whatever you want, XTR on a Wallyworld bike don't make it race worthy whatsoever ) that has show the best in AM category in my researches.

Geometry, quality, design, and price. I'd even consider the Slayer over the SB-66 right now in my situation (not for the price, but performance for my riding style).

And it's damn sexy.
I'm seeing that turned up bottom tube on a few new bikes now.
Even the Turner I'm going for has one.
 
#36 ·
I am about 170 lbs total adding bike and pack weight, so it makes more of a difference for me. However, 5 pounds is still a small percent and when I first tried some high end full-suspension bikes at a demo, they felt significantly lighter than my 32 lb. hardtail. The lighter wheels allow faster acceleration and a lighter bike is more nimble and turns easier. When considering all those factors it explains why a bike that is only five pounds lighter feels significantly lighter.

When I go backpacking, I try to go ultralight and I count ounces and even grams with some items, which is a much smaller percent than five pounds on a bike.

Also, we have what we have in terms of new bike technology. We can't go back to the 90's and thus we redefine what are good quality components and which are unsatisfactory. Before bicycles people would walk on trails and they were happy with that. ;)
 
#49 ·
you know what? of course people are going to tell you that you get what you pay for. but for some people, its either, pay the electric bill, or buy a bike.

if you're in that situation, then get a Yukon. unless you've ridden a 3000k bike before, you wont have much to base it on. My first bike was a wallyworld shwinn that i rode the local easy trails for a few months. then i got myself a specialized hardtail and considered it a huge upgrade. but it was still "only" 700 dollars. THEN i got a Yukon. i noticed i rode better and cleared obstacles better. i LOVED riding the bike!!! it was just a little too heavy when i'd go lugging it over fallen trees, or putting it on my bike rack.

i wasnt riding the thing and thinking, "friggin 1000 dollar piece of crap" Unless you've ridden the best of the best, you will probably enjoy riding the yukon. dont let people get you down about it.

would i go back to the yukon? no. but mainly because of the weight. i had some good times on that bike though.



oh, and ps, my bf who works at a bike shop, told me he has customers that ride the local DH trails on YUKONS!!!! Bad idea obviously, but the frames seem to be holding up. He was suprised that people were beating the piss out of these things. a decent bike for the money.
 
#55 ·
you know what? of course people are going to tell you that you get what you pay for. but for some people, its either, pay the electric bill, or buy a bike.

if you're in that situation, then get a Yukon. unless you've ridden a 3000k bike before, you wont have much to base it on. My first bike was a wallyworld shwinn that i rode the local easy trails for a few months. then i got myself a specialized hardtail and considered it a huge upgrade. but it was still "only" 700 dollars. THEN i got a Yukon. i noticed i rode better and cleared obstacles better. i LOVED riding the bike!!! it was just a little too heavy when i'd go lugging it over fallen trees, or putting it on my bike rack.

i wasnt riding the thing and thinking, "friggin 1000 dollar piece of crap" Unless you've ridden the best of the best, you will probably enjoy riding the yukon. dont let people get you down about it.

would i go back to the yukon? no. but mainly because of the weight. i had some good times on that bike though.

oh, and ps, my bf who works at a bike shop, told me he has customers that ride the local DH trails on YUKONS!!!! Bad idea obviously, but the frames seem to be holding up. He was suprised that people were beating the piss out of these things. a decent bike for the money.
I'd be really impressed if 18 year olds who were suggesting $2,500 MTB's as first bikes were
living on their own and paying their own rent and contributing to their own 401K Plans and etc...

;)
 
#51 ·
They have not been suggested because they do not meet the under $1,000.00 ceiling for a complete bike.

The original post: "For under $1,000. what is the best full suspension entry-level mountain bike one could purchase today?"