[tobiwan78]

I would assume that the Roller is more close to the Virtual pivot point of the titans‘ leverage curve and therefore reduces the kickback. But for sure that‘s a question for @builttoride

one more question in this regards. I realized that the force of the gear clutch is quite noticeable for the Suspension. This device of rulezman would also reduce this effect, correct?

 

[bikeboardorblade]

Interesting… I’ve been wondering how kind it would take until we had bolt on rollers!

 

[ocnLogan]

Interesting idea.

So a high pivot that bolts to the Iscg tabs.

I don’t instagram, or Facebook, and Rulzemans website seems about 20 years old, and doesn’t appear to have any of his products like this listed.

Does anyone know what the price and availability of this thing is supposed to be? I’m high pivot curious, and this could scratch that itch without me needing a whole new bike, potentially.

 

[shakazulu12]

You have to DM him or hit him up on Whatsapp. Don't know why he doesn't upgrade that site, it's worse than Craig's

I love Dave and have his RRT Mezzer, but I do find it interesting that he was adamantly opposed to the idea that kickback existed, and hated idlers, o-chains etc. Even making a video to discuss why it didn't exist and was a waste. And now..............

 

[springs]

What are your thoughts on this idler set up @builttoride ?

 

[ocnLogan]

You have to DM him or hit him up on Whatsapp. Don't know why he doesn't upgrade that site, it's worse than Craig's

I love Dave and have his RRT Mezzer, but I do find it interesting that he was adamantly opposed to the idea that kickback existed, and hated idlers, o-chains etc. Even making a video to discuss why it didn't exist and was a waste. And now..............

Got it.

As a Luddite I don’t have any of those things. It looks like his website has an email though, so maybe I’ll give that a try.

I have been looking at the Forbidden Dreadnought a lot lately, as I’m high pivot curious. This idler setup doesn’t give the rearward axle path, but does do the other bit, and might keep me from buying another frame.

Or… not. I still have upgraditis, and want to try new things. The Raaw Madonna v2 frame deal is tempting me (I’ve never ridden a horst link, and the size L Titan is a bit small for me. The Raaw has the sizing of the XL Titan with the seat tube length of the L) as well.

Ohhh, while we’re on the subject.

I was reading on the VitalMTB forums (I lurk there a bunch), and saw a post from someone saying they spoken to their Banshee distributor, who said to “keep an eye out” for something new.

I’m thinking if that’s true, the Darkside or Legend might be the most likely (as older models). Any insight anyone has that they want to share?

or just more guesswork?

 

[shakazulu12]

Got it.

As a Luddite I don’t have any of those things. It looks like his website has an email though, so maybe I’ll give that a try.

I have been looking at the Forbidden Dreadnought a lot lately, as I’m high pivot curious. This idler setup doesn’t give the rearward axle path, but does do the other bit, and might keep me from buying another frame.

Or… not. I still have upgraditis, and want to try new things. The Raaw Madonna v2 frame deal is tempting me (I’ve never ridden a horst link, and the size L Titan is a bit small for me. The Raaw has the sizing of the XL Titan with the seat tube length of the L) as well.

Ohhh, while we’re on the subject.

I was reading on the VitalMTB forums (I lurk there a bunch), and saw a post from someone saying they spoken to their Banshee distributor, who said to “keep an eye out” for something new.

I’m thinking if that’s true, the Darkside or Legend might be the most likely (as older models). Any insight anyone has that they want to share?

or just more guesswork?

Go do a chainless DH run. Costs you nothing but a master link and some time. Gets you a pretty good idea of what it might feel like.

 

[builttoride]

What are your thoughts on this idler set up @builttoride ?

Horses for courses, it really comes down to personal preferences and matching riding style and terrain.

Personally I like a bit of pedal kickback from higher antisquat, as it results in high pedal efficiency on most climbs and makes pumping terrain a bit faster and just gives a certain connected feel to trail feedback. These are some of the reasons I design it into my frames.

However, some people prefer a very neutral feel to their ride and this can help achieve that. While there will be a bit more drag when pedaling from the idler (pretty minimal), you can increase LSC on your shock to help offset the lack of antisquat that improves general pedal efficiency, and there will be a kind of monster truck traction on techy rough climbs as the suspension is more independent from chain forces which may suit the needs of some riders depending on trials they ride. On slow tech DH with lots of square edge hits might be where you notice this most, as it will smooth this out at the pedals if your rear wheel is locked or going slow enough to engage the hub as shock compresses.

As with all things in bike world, it's about finding the optimal that works for you personally. There is no better or worse, it's just what suits you.

 

[mjw]

I was curious so I reached out to ask how much they were. He wants 300, presumably that's 300 Euro. I was curious...but not that curious.

 

[hodgexj1996]

In search of some solid feedback from longer term owners. How do you guys feel the titan serves as a single bike choice. Reliable etc? I'm east coast (local to mt creek) so I have a plethora of terrain including hitting bike park when I can. I've been researching and cross shopping alloy frames till my eyes hurt. For context while keeping this TLDR - middle aged, New father, ex Dh racer, 5-9" 200lbs and ride like an ape. Climbing is not priority but a means to an end for me fwiw. Time doesn't always allow to go hit epic weekends any more nor is it easy to always plan. I hate saying it but for now im looking at the "one bike quiver" for whatever spontaneous nonsense I get into. There's tons of options now, but the fact that I can buy 142+ dropouts saves me from needing new wheels has jumped this to the top of the list.(all parts coming off a 2014 Spec Enduro 29).

I'm not a new bike every year kinda guy so im keen on longevity and am ok with having to save/spend a bit more the first time and updating components as I go.

 

[Rocket88R]

In search of some solid feedback from longer term owners. How do you guys feel the titan serves as a single bike choice. Reliable etc? I'm east coast (local to mt creek) so I have a plethora of terrain including hitting bike park when I can. I've been researching and cross shopping alloy frames till my eyes hurt. For context while keeping this TLDR - middle aged, New father, ex Dh racer, 5-9" 200lbs and ride like an ape. Climbing is not priority but a means to an end for me fwiw. Time doesn't always allow to go hit epic weekends any more nor is it easy to always plan. I hate saying it but for now im looking at the "one bike quiver" for whatever spontaneous nonsense I get into. There's tons of options now, but the fact that I can buy 142+ dropouts saves me from needing new wheels has jumped this to the top of the list.(all parts coming off a 2014 Spec Enduro 29).

I'm not a new bike every year kinda guy so im keen on longevity and am ok with having to save/spend a bit more the first time and updating components as I go.

BLUF: Yes, the Titan is a great single bike to own.

I am an east coast rider (northern VA) as well. The Titan serves me as my single bike. We have everything from techie XC to bike parks here and I ride them all. With tool kit, spare tube, pump, pedals, DHR/DHR tires and a coil shock mine weights in at 36.8lbs. The variety of drop outs attracted me to the Banshee line. I put the longest dropouts available on my frame and my chainstays are 452mm. The long chain stays can help when climbing; for I think it climbs really well. I recommend the Gen 2 Titan with the narrower diameter seat tube.

 

[hodgexj1996]

BLUF: Yes, the Titan is a great single bike to own.

I am an east coast rider (northern VA) as well. The Titan serves me as my single bike. We have everything from techie XC to bike parks here and I ride them all. With tool kit, spare tube, pump, pedals, DHR/DHR tires and a coil shock mine weights in at 36.8lbs. The variety of drop outs attracted me to the Banshee line. I put the longest dropouts available on my frame and my chainstays are 452mm. The long chain stays can help when climbing; for I think it climbs really well. I recommend the Gen 2 Titan with the narrower diameter seat tube.

Thanks for the reply! I tend to hyper fixate on things and its so hard to quantify experiences without actually going hands on. Way back when, travel # mattered. Now, its not so relevant. But my brain tells me I need 170+ then the research confuses me with kinematics lol. My current enduro is just an LT trail bike at heart vs "free ride" feel im after if I had to put words to it. I had pretty much come to terms with buying a consumer direct bike vs a frame for the cost, but it looks like I can use literally most everything as well!. I was unaware of the 142+ compatibility until today and that changed everything. Just add wheels/and boost dropouts later when I can. I'm not so concerned on weight, Heck I'd be better to lose weight myself vs off my bike lol. It's quite apparent there's no "bad" bikes anymore, just appropriate for my expectations. Its just hard to validate a dh bike that sits vs a proper multi use and maybe dialing it back a bit at the park. Guess these will be my "white new balance and jorts" decisions as a dad lol.

 

[Rocket88R]

Thanks for the reply! I tend to hyper fixate on things and its so hard to quantify experiences without actually going hands on. Way back when, travel # mattered. Now, its not so relevant. But my brain tells me I need 170+ then the research confuses me with kinematics lol. My current enduro is just an LT trail bike at heart vs "free ride" feel im after if I had to put words to it. I had pretty much come to terms with buying a consumer direct bike vs a frame for the cost, but it looks like I can use literally most everything as well!. I was unaware of the 142+ compatibility until today and that changed everything. Just add wheels/and boost dropouts later when I can. I'm not so concerned on weight, Heck I'd be better to lose weight myself vs off my bike lol. It's quite apparent there's no "bad" bikes anymore, just appropriate for my expectations. Its just hard to validate a dh bike that sits vs a proper multi use and maybe dialing it back a bit at the park. Guess these will be my "white new balance and jorts" decisions as a dad lol.

I run a 160mm Fox 36 and a -1 headset with the 155mm rear travel. It is specced for a 170mm fork this works for me. I guess that does put me in the Trail Bike category.

 

[hodgexj1996]

I run a 160mm Fox 36 and a -1 headset with the 155mm rear travel. It is specced for a 170mm fork this works for me. I guess that does put me in the Trail Bike category.

At this point I think it's tomato/tomato with how much there's overlap between both varieties. I've seen so many "enduro" reviews where the travel specs don't really portray how it behaves on trail. The few things I can find on the Titan lead me to believe it feels like a longer travel bike. It's hard to really find much tho and most is older, which brought me here. I'd wager that your setup is much more akin to an enduro unless you have it set up to roll light, but at 36lbs I'm leaning into a pretty solid spec?

I've been out of the loop long enough that I'm way behind the bell curve, so much so that I'm bsck to asking beginner questions. I know my current bike is so linear and high leverage I'm running a 575-700lb coil and I can still bottom it out at will. I've adjusted on the trail and it's not a big deal but bike park gets dicey. I had been running my 26er DH bike but the sizing is so small on it (M in 2003 standards), it's become almost intolerable to ride now. I spent some time on Avalanche's sight and compiled a list of lower leverage, heavy guy friendly bikes and the Banshee continues to check boxes.

 

[Canadmos]

It seems like a durable bike. It's my only mountain bike as well, so it gets ridden on everything. I've had mine for about a year and it got put through a pretty rough summer.

Get an anodized frame for extra durability.

One of the only downsides of the frame is that it has a bit of a short seat tube insertion depth. It's manageable, but for me, I'm right in between being able to run a shorter or longer dropper. So I end up with a bunch of exposed seat post (if that makes sense).

 

[hodgexj1996]

It seems like a durable bike. It's my only mountain bike as well, so it gets ridden on everything. I've had mine for about a year and it got put through a pretty rough summer.

Get an anodized frame for extra durability.

One of the only downsides of the frame is that it has a bit of a short seat tube insertion depth. It's manageable, but for me, I'm right in between being able to run a shorter or longer dropper. So I end up with a bunch of exposed seat post (if that makes sense).

That's the one thing I see highlighted quite a bit. Based off a size medium..... The stand over on my current enduro is 785mm with a 445mm seatpost length per the specs. ( Top of saddle is at 36 1/2" slammed/130mm dropper. ) Titan specs at 728mm stand over but a 430mm seat tube. I don't really know how that equates to bike fit in real life, but I do know this specialized is "tall" between my legs when standing but hasn't seemed to be an issue riding. This is exacerbated by having to use a PNW external routed dropper. In a perfect world I wanna try the mullet setup and see if that helps me out in this aspect. I'm 5-9 with about a 30"-31" inseam. Hard to navigate specs on paper vs real life variables.

This would be my only hesitation as of right now as a taller seat height when dropped could likely start to become problematic?

 

[Canadmos]

I mean if you're not concerned about having the seatpost and seat being absolutely slammed down to the seat post clamp, it won't be a huge deal.

I'm 5'8 on a medium frame, with a 210mm OneUp v2 dropped shimmed down to 180mm. The collar on the dropper is a few inches above the seat tube clamp, but really it hasn't gotten in the way.

I rode a lot of bike park last summer on it, a long with quite a few steep trails and it was no problem. The seat never got in the way. The only time it was an issue is if I screw up and had to stop on a steep section; getting back on the bike is a little more awkward with a slightly higher seat.

 

[hodgexj1996]

I mean if you're not concerned about having the seatpost and seat being absolutely slammed down to the seat post clamp, it won't be a huge deal.

I'm 5'8 on a medium frame, with a 210mm OneUp v2 dropped shimmed down to 180mm. The collar on the dropper is a few inches above the seat tube clamp, but really it hasn't gotten in the way.

I rode a lot of bike park last summer on it, a long with quite a few steep trails and it was no problem. The seat never got in the way. The only time it was an issue is if I screw up and had to stop on a steep section; getting back on the bike is a little more awkward with a slightly higher seat.

I just went and measured my setup. 33 1/2" or about 850/851mm from saddle at extended ride position to pedal at bottom of stroke. 170mm cranks. Rough measurements look like maybe a OUv2 dropper at 150mm could work? Gotta do some math to see. Currently have 2" of seat post visible so not slammed on this bike and it has been ok. Definitely don't wanna go much higher with it tho. I had that exact situation happen a few times this year as well, just an annoyance but would prefer to minimize it none the less.

 

[ARAZ]

I just went and measured my setup. 33 1/2" or about 850/851mm from saddle at extended ride position to pedal at bottom of stroke. 170mm cranks. Rough measurements look like maybe a OUv2 dropper at 150mm could work? Gotta do some math to see. Currently have 2" of seat post visible so not slammed on this bike and it has been ok. Definitely don't wanna go much higher with it tho. I had that exact situation happen a few times this year as well, just an annoyance but would prefer to minimize it none the less.

Subtract the max seatpost insertion from seat tube length — on the titan this looks to be 220mm — this will be the min distance between the bottom of the post and the bb. Measure bb to seat rails on your current bike and subtract 220 — this should give you a pretty good idea of the max total length you can run on your dropper.
From mu experience on my phantom, the insertion depth on banshee’s site is pretty accurate, though there is space for the actuator to sit below that max insertion depth depending on how it’s positioned, so it might be possible to get an extra 10-15 mm.

 

[Blatant]

Put it this way, I’ve owned a bunch of bikes. I’d be stoked to get back on a Banshee.