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Great writeup WA_Rider. Can you tell me what coil shock are you using and what spring weight you went with (and how much you weigh geared up)?
I am using the Marzocchi Bomber CR coil with a Fox SLS 600# spring, I weigh 260ish all geared up (Covid weight has not quite gone away - I'm usually around 250#). I'm on the high side of the sag, but it feels so good.
 
Just to add info to this thread re coil springs. I'm 88kg ready to ride and a 425lb spring gets me 46mm of sag which is 30% of wheel travel. Measuring at the shock is a bit of a pain on the Titan so using the wheel travel method is much more repeatable. A broom handle taped to the seat extending over the rear axle is the easiest way to accomplish this. Grab a mate then measure unladen then laden just like a motorbike above the axle.
 
Anybody here that's running a shimano 12 speed drivetrain and 32 tooth chainring know how many links they have on their chain? I just finished the bike last night. I used shimano's method of wrapping the chain around the largest gears and adding 6 links plus the quick link. Rides like a dream but I keep dropping the chain. I can't figure out if I need to mess with the clutch or I need to take a few links out. Riding SLX 51 tooth cassette on an XL, but I think chain stay length on all models is identical.
 
Just to add info to this thread re coil springs. I'm 88kg ready to ride and a 425lb spring gets me 46mm of sag which is 30% of wheel travel. Measuring at the shock is a bit of a pain on the Titan so using the wheel travel method is much more repeatable. A broom handle taped to the seat extending over the rear axle is the easiest way to accomplish this. Grab a mate then measure unladen then laden just like a motorbike above the axle.
73 kg rider,Cane Creek DBcoil and 380 lbs
 
Anybody here that's running a shimano 12 speed drivetrain and 32 tooth chainring know how many links they have on their chain? I just finished the bike last night. I used shimano's method of wrapping the chain around the largest gears and adding 6 links plus the quick link. Rides like a dream but I keep dropping the chain. I can't figure out if I need to mess with the clutch or I need to take a few links out. Riding SLX 51 tooth cassette on an XL, but I think chain stay length on all models is identical.
Put it in 12th gear, if there is any slack in the chain, remove 2 links and repeat.

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I‘m thinking about getting a Cane Creek Kitsuma and I need some help choosing the right spring rate. Fully geared up i‘m about 98kg. I currently have the Fox X2 with 210psi and all the tokens.
Because I‘m now using all the tokens I‘m thinking about getting a VALT progressive spring. Is this a good idea? Has anyone of you tried it?
 
I'm thinking about getting a Cane Creek Kitsuma and I need some help choosing the right spring rate. Fully geared up i'm about 98kg. I currently have the Fox X2 with 210psi and all the tokens.
Because I'm now using all the tokens I'm thinking about getting a VALT progressive spring. Is this a good idea? Has anyone of you tried it?
I guess you might be on the 450 pound spring ,I have 73 kg and actually on a 350 ,tried a 400 and was on the stiff side ,check Andrew on the review with more 10 kg then me (83) and he is using a 400 pound
NSMB.com - Banshee Titan - Part Two
 
I've a Kitsuma coil on one bike (not a Banshee on this occasion) and whilst I got advised on a certain weight coil from the brand and the TF Calculator, I found them to be too light. After discussing with Cane Creek support and explaining my weight and the bike they recommended a weight over 100lb higher than originally recommended elsewhere and it's MUCH better.

Banshee might be different but it might be worth checking with Cane Creek direct. They were rapid with responding and incredibly helpful.
 
I'm running an SD coil with a 450lb spring at 84kg in gear, and its possibly a bit too heavy, could probably go down to 425 but hard to find anything in stock currently. my only real issue is that it's not quite as soft as i was expectin, but the mid stroke is amazing, just feels so smashy. just need to cut my bars down a bit so im not running into branches so much...

at 98kg i would expect you to be closer to 500-550lbs, if you're going for the correct ~16mm sag.
 
I'm 200 lbs or 90 kg. Running a 450 spring on a bomber cr. It feels right. Definitely settles into a good spot for cornering and holds me up on the bigger hits and compressions out of rock rolls. I haven't felt any harsh bottom outs, but I don't think I would go any lighter. I had contemplated trying a slightly higher spring rate just to see how it felt.
 
Has anyone made a brace of some sort for the rear brake mount?

I think it is excessively flexy and I am getting the vibration. I can see the whole brake/adapter assembly spring back when I release the brakes suddenly. I tested with a piece of rubber in between the frame and dropout, which made the vibration worse as it allowed more flex. So if you could somehow brace the dropout against the seat stay or stiffen it somehow, you could possibly fix the vibration.

Has anyone got any other solutions for the brake vibration?

I am using 203mm NSB adapter with a Dominion brake
 
Has anyone made a brace of some sort for the rear brake mount?

I think it is excessively flexy and I am getting the vibration. I can see the whole brake/adapter assembly spring back when I release the brakes suddenly. I tested with a piece of rubber in between the frame and dropout, which made the vibration worse as it allowed more flex. So if you could somehow brace the dropout against the seat stay or stiffen it somehow, you could possibly fix the vibration.

Has anyone got any other solutions for the brake vibration?

I am using 203mm NSB adapter with a Dominion brake
Check that your dominion pistons are not dry... there is a lot of chat out there of vibration due to dominion brakes regardless of what frame they are on frames, and it seems that a common issue is that the pistons are source of vibration and greasing them solve the issue.

Quote from another mtbr thread: 'Seems that the problem in my case for Nomad V4 aluminum with Hayes Dominium A4 was dried pistons. Added a drop of DOT around each piston and the noise and vibration are gone, at least for now.'

If the vibration is really bad and bike has been ridden like that for a while then it can cause damage to the dropout assembly over time.
 
Check that your dominion pistons are not dry... there is a lot of chat out there of vibration due to dominion brakes regardless of what frame they are on frames, and it seems that a common issue is that the pistons are source of vibration and greasing them solve the issue.

Quote from another mtbr thread: 'Seems that the problem in my case for Nomad V4 aluminum with Hayes Dominium A4 was dried pistons. Added a drop of DOT around each piston and the noise and vibration are gone, at least for now.'

If the vibration is really bad and bike has been ridden like that for a while then it can cause damage to the dropout assembly over time.
Changing the Dominion pads to MTX race pads fixed the vibration for me. Running with the Hayes 203mm rotor on the rear all noise has gone.

Different question for you Keith. Have there been any running changes to the frames specifically the seat tube where it's welded above the linkage pivot?
 
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