There are many reasons why brake pads and disc rotors rub. This issue is not just isolated to your Elixir CR.

What kind of front axle does your bike have? If it's a 9mm quick release, make a mark on the axle (not on the hub) so that the axle can always be installed back into the drop outs in the same orientation. There can be minute differences at the axle which will be multiplied by the distance the disc rotor is from the hub and cause rubbing. Once you've adjusted the calipers perfectly, you'll want to be able to return the axle to the same position every time.

Depending how much of a perfectionist you are, you can literally spend hours trying to perfectly center a set of calipers over the brake rotors. However, before doing so, make certain that the rest of the front end is optimal...

1. is your disc rotor true or is it slightly bent (uneven pressure at the disc bolts can cause the rotor to warp ever so slightly),
2. is your quick release properly tensioned so the front axle does not shift inside the drop out during a ride,
3. is your fork rigid enough to resist the torque exerted by your weight while riding
4. is the hub tension properly adjusted as a loose hub will shift ever so slightly on the axle and allow the disc rotors to rub,
5. is your brake over-filled and hence the pad to rotor distance is smaller than usual?

If all of the above are done, then spend time adjusting your caliper such that when the lever is pulled and the pads clamp down there is no movement of the rotor. I take the time to adjust my calipers so that the rotor does not move side-to-side at all and so that the pads are as perfectly parallel to the disc rotor as possible when viewed from the top-bottom axis and fore-aft axis.

Avid's method of loosening the caliper, then apply the brake, then tighten the caliper bolts works sometimes, but the result is usually not perfect. Take your time and have a drink (but not too many or the eyes might play tricks on you) while you work on this. I'm sure you'll get it perfect.

 

Good point about marking the axel. I just regreased my hub and now it's rubbing.

 

Wow, thank you Winter. That is a lot of education in a short post. I had a feeling there was more to this issue and I think you nailed it. I am new to disc brakes and didn't know how to manage the variables. Looks like I have a new hobby until I get this right.

I took the bike to a shop yesterday and explained my issue. One of the mechanics took a crack at it. After a minuet he got it set up and gave me the "your an idiot and I am a mechanic look", to which I replied "take the wheel off and put it back on." He did and the rotor rubbed. He spent another 10 minuets messing with it and then in defeat said "ride with headphones and save up for Shimanos." It was sad but I had a good laugh.

I will spend some time trying your suggestions and get it right, I have a really hard time listening to a brake rub knowing that a little energy is wasted on every pedal stroke overcoming the extra friction.

Thank you again be well

 

I was going to add that sticky caliper pistons could also be a factor here but it sounds like the issue lays with tentioning as a result of removing the wheel. Once properly aligned, does it stay aligned after/during a ride?

If I were you, once you have it realigned/centered, do not take the wheel off or loosen/adjust the axle/quick release tention unless you absolutely have to.

What kind of bike is it? What fork, hubs, axle/quick release? Can you attach photos of the front rotor/brake caliper?

 

Yep chances are the rotor is rubbing on the caliper NOT the pad as the non-hose pad usually stays stuck all the way in on those calipers- NO real fix except get 2012 XTs like I did

 

I also junked my elixirs and purchased 2012 xt. Much easier to set up.

 

Ok so as long as I don't ever take of the front wheel this system works ok.
@ amassadorhawg I am riding a Motobecane Fantom DS team sorry no pic right now.
Fork- Rockshox Reba team w
Hubs- Vuelta XRP Team
Rim-Vuleta XRP Team SuperLite Disc

 

It's very telling that as long as you don't remove the front wheel then there's no problem. This implies that the issue lies in getting the axle to lie exactly the same way in the drop outs each time. Unfortunately, when using 9mm quick release front axles, getting the axle go go in exactly the same each time is difficult; marking the axle with a dab of white-out or some other way to mark it will help, but it's not the perfect solution, if there were one.

I've gotten around the problem by trying not to remove the front wheel too much, as you proposed, or just switch to thru-axle systems for more consistent front axle placement.

 

In most cases rotors will rub at some point, regardless of brand. In doing so, nothing much happens - a tiny bit of wear and heat but hardly anything worth sweating about. The worst thing is probably the sound! It will not compromise your ride and might even go away once the pads are worn down a bit with use. So long as the rotor is pretty much true and everything else is good, don't let it ruin your ride - there's more to cycling than brake noises!

 

The issue is not noise its efficiency. I don't get why so many riders spend hundreds of dollars to shed a few grams off a bike but put up with the bike working against them with each revolution of the rotor.

As someone mentioned this is all brakes not just Avids. I have the same issue with XTs.

This seems like a design flaw. Why can't the tolerances on either side of the rotor be more than 1 millimeter?

 

So I dumped the elixir for a set of xt. The rear set up great but the front is still tricky. I marked the axel and count revolutions when operating the quick release. I agree with uphillnogo andded friction in the system is inefficent. This is my first bike with disc brakes and after hearing forum members and mechanics repeat the same line about a little bit of rub being ok I am left with the opinion that the manufactures have gotten people to believe sloppy gear is acceptable.
I would rather have my XTR V brakes I never had a problem with them.

 

I know this is an older post, but I am having the same issues with my '12 Avid Elixirs on my 9mm QR Manitou Tower Expert fork. It was driving me crazy, every time I took the wheel off the caliper would need to be re-centered, which is a problem because the wheel needs to come off for the bike to fit in my car.

Well, at least its not just me. I will try the white out mark on the axle and see if that helps. Otherwise I may have another reason to upgrade to a thru axle sooner than later.