I have some (not the fatbike version, but I can't imagine there's any difference but spindle length) and as far as I can tell, they're pretty much the same thing as the Turbines but with a 24mm steel axle (ie, Shimano HT2 style) instead of the 30mm aluminum one. So a few extra grams and in theory less stiff, though I'd be surprised if anyone can actually make any modern crank flex in any meaningful way.

IMO, pretty awesome cranks for the price.

-Walt

 

Thanks @Walt.

 

Yep, I emailed RF about these some months back and they said pretty much the same thing Walt did, including not being able to tell the difference.

 

It's nice that RF now has some cranks with the CINCH spider interface, but not the 30mm CINCH spindle. Makes setup a little easier for folks who have a BB92 frame that's "supposed" to only accommodate a 24mm spindle. Though I do appreciate the innovation from companies who have made BB's that allow 30mm spindles to fit in BB92 frames.

 

Update: pulled the trigger of the aeffect crank, RF DH x-type bb and direct mount single ring. Whole setup looks pretty nice, only problem is when I installed it there was way too much space left between the BB and the crank. Called Race Face, got really awesome customer support. My BB shipped with only 1 spacer when it should have 3, 2mm spacers. 2 go on ds, 1 goes on nds.

Sharing here as you can't find this info anywhere because the crank is new and RF hasn't added tech specs to their website yet.

 

I have a pair that came as OE on my bike. Stock ring was 32t DM, but I replaced it with a 30t DM from WolfTooth. Honestly can't tell any difference in stiffness compared to my carbon SRAM 1x cranks.

 

If you put out 5000W, they probably deflect .02mm instead of .01mm. 50% stiffer if you'd gone with the Turbines! Too bad, now you'll never be able to go fast or have any fun.

-Walt

 

clearance for 104 mm BCD?

:madman: Ok, I have the Aeffect cinch crank, and I'm missing something here. I got a spider mount for it, as I'm going to use it for my commuter bike with a belt drive. The Gates 39 tooth 104 mm BCD chainring doesn't fit the 2X Race Face spider. See pictures below:

What's wrong? And how do I fix this, apart from taking one of the parts to a machine shop?

Could I put these shims (Race Face Chainring Shims > Components > Drivetrain > Chainring Bolts | Jenson USA) between the spider tabs and the chainring?

 

Go after it with a dremel or a file. Or get a different crank.

Not uncommon for that to pop up on 4-arm spiders/rings.

-Walt

 

So the Race Face spider is the part at fault? The Gates chainring is meant to have contact on the tab lip/shelf area, so I don't like the idea of taking a file to it. That the two parts are off by close to 2 mm seems odd.

 

Its not a raceface problem, doubt you'll see that issue with normal chain rings. That shelf doesn't do anything anyway, the load is carried by the chain ring bolts. So either file the ring or dremel the spider. And it being off isn't odd at all. 1mm per arm is nothing being most rings dont even touch those ledges.

 

perfectly normal.
the middle ring position often has "lips" that change your ability to run a ring meant for the big ring (outside) position. Most of the damn truvativs do the same.
Maybe try your ring on the outer position.

 

Thanks

Thanks for comments/suggestions everyone.

I deal with 20-50 µm all the time, so I'm not used to things being out 2 mm!

Definitely a choice on Race Face's part. Here's the specs for Gates which are spot on to measured values.

 

It works on the outer position, but I need it on the inner to match the chainline for the Alfine 11 hub I want to use (44-45 mm). This build is taking me forever, as all parts seem to have compatibility issues.

 

Yup, file or different cranks. Though you might just run into the same problem again.

Hopefully you checked to see if the sprocket would clear your frame!

Come to think of it, is this going on a fatbike? Because no way no how is a 44-45mm chainline belt going to let you run any fatbike tire I can think of.

-Walt

 

Yes, as far as I can tell, the Aeffect crank is for you if you have or need to use a 24mm bottombracket, but want a direct mount crank.
The direct mount cranks allow for wider chainline by using a 'flipped' chainring or a Boost chainring or spider.
This might allow you to run the narrower spindle crank(for 170 rear) on a bike with a 190 rear hub, getting better stance width while maintaining proper shifting and tire clearance.
All the other direct mount raceface cranks(Cinch) are 30mm spindle.

 

I run the RF Ride 170mm O.L.D. crankset on a Motobecane Night Train (197x12 rear end) frame.

The RF Ride 170mm O.L.D. Crankset has a q-factor of 202mm and clears my chainstays with plenty of room. My heels on my size 9.5 feet don't hit the chain or seat stays at all.

I run a RF NW 30T ring. To get proper chainline, I run the ring on the outer ring position (flipped). Chainline is within 1mm of a CINCH system running a 170mm o.l.d. crank with the "flipped" ring technique. And in fact puts it slightly towards the larger end of the cog, which is where I spend most of my time in the winter on my fat bike anyways.

So...the real benefit to the Aefect CINCH as far as I'm concerned is if you want direct mount so you can put on a ring smaller than 30T. If you plan on running a 30T or larger, I wouldn't choose a CINCH over the X-TYPE RF cranksets. I would buy whatever is cheapest that you like.

However, being able to run a ring smaller than 30T is a good thing as you can go 26/36 instead of 30/42, giving up very little climbing ratio and saving quite a bit of $$ on a 42T expander cog that I have, allows for better/quicker shifting, running a shorter cage derailleur, less chain, etc. And a little less weight.

Otherwise, there really is no benefit.

There are intangible benefits such as ability to move it to another bike by purchasing just another 24mm aefect cinch spindle. But at the price of the Aefect vs. a replacement spindle, you might as well just buy a 2nd crankset. It's not like the NEXT SL where a $80 spindle allows you to move your $450 crank to another bike.

 

@Walt

Yes, the chainline was the first issue I came up against. Originally I had bought the Alfine 11 hub for a Spot Honey Badger SS, but it didn't fit. So then I ordered this frame (Soma Fabrications - Juice Belt version):

And it looks like the Gates 39 tooth chainring will fit at a 44-45 mm chainline. And no it isn't a fatbike.

 

And it looks like the Gates 39 tooth chainring will fit at a 44-45 mm chainline. And no it isn't a fatbike.

Then why are you posting about your application in the fatbike forum? This whole thread should really be in the Drivetrain forum, but it sorta makes sense here because the OP was specifically asking about fatbikes. Your application has nothing to do with fatbikes, so you had a lot of people confused.

 

Yup, light (630g 68/73mm with direct mount 30t oval from AB), well finished, all steel axle and bolt.
But one big disapointment, I use 170mm crank, mainly for added clearance, but 170mm aeffect are in fact 175mm crank drilled 5mm shorter...

 

Yup, light (630g 68/73mm with direct mount 30t oval from AB), well finished, all steel axle and bolt.

But one big disapointment, I use 170mm crank, mainly for added clearance, but 170mm aeffect are in fact 175mm crank drilled 5mm shorter...

Most cranks are that way. Way too costly to make a range of crank arms in 5mm increments. Especially when 5mm on the arms doesn't affect anything anyway, its not a performance matter nor any real life effect on anything else.

 

Preload is another difference between the Aeffect and Turbine.
The Turbine has an adjustable ring (similar idea as shimano) while the Aeffect use the elastomer. I am not too familiar with the second set up, but what are the possible issues?

 

Which elastomer are you speaking of? I just put on my cranks a couple weeks ago, and do not remember any elastomers in the setup. I didn't notice any preload-able areas on the cranks either... :S

 

Which elastomer are you speaking of?...

On the RF *Ride* cranks (which at a headline level, at least, use the same system as the Aeffect) the "elastomer" (=squishy rubber washer!) is buried in the NDS crank, and you wouldn't notice it unless you dug it out. It's the fat rubber thing next to the crank arm here:

After it there is a black plastic shim washer, and the 10-11mm alloy spacer. There is a spacer and various black/red plastic washers on the DS too. but no squishy bit.

 

My kit had a black washer some 12-15mm thick. I think there was a red rubber o-ring around it, but nothing spongy like the Cane Creek thudbuster elastomers. Do you have any pictures to share?

 

I don't have the crankset yet, but yes, that is the piece.

 

Hey Everyone, How do these cranks come off the bike exactly? Are they self extracting with the drive side 8mm hex wrench? Or do I need a crank puller? I've found lots of conflicting information while searching, Raceface calls it their "EXI" interface vs the "Xtype" which I know is self extracting. Thanks in advance!

 

You need a crank puller. I used the Isis drive adapted and it worked well enough. Had to take it apart a couple weeks k. Let me know if you need pics.

 

Hey Abrar, thanks for the reply. I'm a rookie at this so sorry if this is an obvious question, but it looks like there are 2 hex wrench holes on my drive side, an inner 8mm and and outer 10mm. Do I remove both of these then use the crank puller? Are they standard threads (clockwise to tighten)? Thanks!

 

In this order, do the following.

1. Crack open a beer and take a sip.
2. Remove fixing bolt mounted on the drive side. It should take an 8m hex wrench. This is there to compress the two arms together and hold them snug. Standard threads.
3. Use isis drive adapted crank arm puller to remove drive side arm. Standard threading.
4. Tap out spindle and non drive side arm with rubber mallet.
5. Finish your beer.