You should maybe pee on each once or twice too, to simulate real-world conditions...

 

That's for derailleur testing...

 

Subscribed.

I'm really hoping Frame Saver kicks ass as that's what's in all my frames.

How often will they get sprayed with salt water?
Are those little tubes behind the cans what your testing?
What steel tubing is being used? Are they all the same?

 

Hey OneSpeed


They will be evenly sprayed down once daily
All the tubes 1-6 are in order from left to right
Corresponding treatments a shown above
I will check with Walt on the tubing manuf.

Lol Mike

Yes peeing on them would really add to the excitement

 

Let the mayhem begin: Day 1

Day 1

product 1: Corrosion X HD

product 2: Frame Saver

product 3: WD-40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor

product 4: Boeshield T-9

product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector

Product 6: Fluid Film

 

No doubt Walt uses a wide variety of tubing. Many of those could have very different corrosion resistance.

I'm afraid if you can't be sure they are all the exact same material, this will all have to be taken with a grain of salt.

 

I hope J.P. WEIGLE (FRAMESAVER) wins, 1, because my Waltworks has a lot of it in there and 2, because it cost me a fortune to get hold of! 

Subscribed Mikee, looking forward to the results...

 

I hope the Framesaver works as well, but I am very curious to see the results of this.

Also, +1 on the pee!


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I don’t see Boeshield loosing.

 

May I suggest adding two / three things?

(1) An example of mild steel, as it will rust more easily than the bicycle tubing. A common nail should work.

Would doing so, provide a base line?

(2) A hot parifin-minerial oil application. We went through this a short while ago in referance to chain lubes; a creative mind could come up with a method to apply the mix in a seat tube.

What is unknown...are all of the tubing examples of the same type? If not, it invalidates the experiment. If so...it needs to be stated to be sure we are comparing apples to apples.

Walt?

(3) Subject each example to a 'naked' salt exposure? While not necessary, it would point out just how effective each application substance is over none at all.

If these suggestions come a little late...not all is lost; for under the 'unknowns' the experiment still is pointing the reader in the right direction.

The effort is to be applauded!

@VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise!

Well...that is an assumption made from personal experience...if...I can find it!

 

...@VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise! ...

At those temps, I'd be lucky to find something to aim with...

 

Yes, I totally should have put an untreated piece up there...

Fwiw I did an experiment similar to this using roughly 20 different treatment methods, and i did use an untreated control piece in that test.

The best product from my first test however were unacceptable for use for bicycle frame tubing because the products would not spread once sprayed into a tube.

For example:
One of the leading products in my first test was called “5th wheel lube” nasty black stuff. I tried spraying it into a piece of pvc pipe to see what it would do.
It was so thick/gummy it just stuck right to where it was sprayed. So not ideal for bikes.

Sidenote: Considering what I learned from the first round of testing, I wanted to use products that were not “solvents”
Think firearms lube/cleaners
I wanted something that would coat tubes internally and then stay put!

My plan after discovering the winner is to flush out the tubes every 6-12 months with some sort of solvent/alcohol and then reapply the winning product. #healthytubes

 

Just leave it in there! No?

My vote goes to Fluid Film. I have had good results with it except on epdm gasket

 

CorrosionX HD. My Surly frames are full of CorrosionX Marine which I believe is similar. I've been using it for years on ocean going offshore boats. Stuff is straight up good! A number of years ago, I saw a similar test done under similar conditions but with plate steel. There are a few new products out since but Boeshield was around as was the CorrosionX. They used standard WD40 back then and amazingly, it was very near the top of the list when it was all over.

 

One could get their frame galvanized. It may not look attractive, but it should hold up fairly well.

 

product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector
That's my guess/hunch.
Never had a steel frame rust out. Just jet it with water to wash crap out. pull the seetpost to let dry and spray some crap in the vent holes now and again. Pulling the seat post often is probably the best, bb likes that also.

 

Hey Surly I Ride,

Yeah, galvanizing is a concept for sure.
I galvanized a set of motorcycle fenders years ago. I could be wrong but there may be certain challenges in galvanizing varieties of objects and shapes. It might be a good idea to consult with a pro on this one. Would be cool to send an old frame to get galvanized just for the hell of it.

Fwiw my Harley fenders, although now more corrosion resistant seemed weaker. This could have just been me though. Take this with a grain of salt.

Sidenote: In my first round of testing the number one product in corrosion prevention was POWDERCOAT.

Hands down!

All the other steel pieces were destroyed by corrosion and the powdered pieces looked good as new!

This may help readers of this thread torn between an old school paint job or a powdercoat.

I used multiple different enamel paints.
Waxed paints... Greased paints etc.

POWDERCOAT is KING

 

Powder coat I have also found to be generally superior for corrosion resistance. Exception, on sharp edges it doesn't perform well as sides of tube & plate.

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A few spots forming on No. 4, all the others have zero signs of rust

 

View attachment 1190017

Nooooo...

 

Per Walt,

All tubes are 4130 True Temper

Today we have 2 products allowing rust to form

Product 2:Framesaver

and Product 4:Boeshield T-9

All others are rust-free at the moment.

Kinda makes me sad about the boeshield, because it is one of my favorite drivetrain lubes

 

My Pipedream Moxie. "All of our frames are have ED (Electrophoretic Deposition) treatment. This covers every surface, inside and out, with a uniform non-porous layer which protects the frame from corrosion. The frames are then painted."

Moxie Enduro Hardtail | 27.5/27.5+/29er Compatible

 

My Pipedream Moxie. "All of our frames are have ED (Electrophoretic Deposition) treatment. This covers every surface, inside and out, with a uniform non-porous layer which protects the frame from corrosion. The frames are then painted."

Surly and a few others use the same process from the factory, which I love. It's interesting to me that Surly also still recommends Frame Saver as the best preventative measure, in addition to the factory coating.

OP thanks for clarifying we are testing the same tubing for all products, that could have potentially made a big difference.

I'm pretty surprised to see rust on the Frame saver piece. Granted this is some rough testing conditions (not even a rinse cycle, which I'm totally on board with) but with two coats I would have expected it to hold up better/longer.

 

I didn't think I'd like this thread...but I'm liking this thread. A few baseless and bold predictions with wagers would have cemented the suspense but the rising action delivers.

 

Hey Travis,

Where can a frame be sent for ED coatings?

 

No idea, Pipedream shipped the frame from the factory in Taiwan. They don't make a fat bike though.

 

I don't think either of my Karate Monkeys have ED. In fact, they are both quite rigid. :ihih:

 

Are we missing a contendor here? ACF-50??

 

Just saw this. Cool test! I'm guessing Fuidfilm continues to perform well. That's what I've settled on for my cars here in the rustbelt. After a year or so with some road grime mixed in it becomes extremely sticky and effective. Only place it isn't fantastic is in the wheel wells where it gets hit with a direct shot of spray from the tires. Pretty much disappears after about 100 miles.

 

Where's the one with boiled linseed oil? That's inside my Karate Monkey. With a little care, a steel bike should last quite a long time.

 

This is a funny thread to me, I don’t keep a bike long enough for it to corrode much

Carbon and Ti are corrosion resistant

I’m more concerned about corrosion on my vehicle...

 

This is a funny thread to me, I don't keep a bike long enough for it to corrode much

Carbon and Ti are corrosion resistant

I'm more concerned about corrosion on my vehicle...

You can apply the winning "protectant" to your vehicle too. Unless of course it's made of Ti and carbon!

Yes, it's a little funny but why not preserve the bike as long as possible so some one somewhere can enjoy the bike too. Imagine your old whatever mtb ending up who knows where changing the life of some soul who could really use it. They'd be stoked!