I'm not sure if there are really good 1x setups with 9 speed.

You could try to go 1x9 just by removing the front DR and replacing your dual chain rings up front with a single narrow/ wide ring and see how good the chain retention is. The issue is the DR doesn't have a clutch to keep the chain tension up so dropping the chain might still be a problem.

You shouldn't have to replace the cranks, just the chain ring, cassette, rear DR, and shifter.

 

I'm not sure if there are really good 1x setups with 9 speed.

You could try to go 1x9 just by removing the front DR and replacing your dual chain rings up front with a single narrow/ wide ring and see how good the chain retention is. The issue is the DR doesn't have a clutch to keep the chain tension up so dropping the chain might still be a problem.

You shouldn't have to replace the cranks, just the chain ring, cassette, rear DR, and shifter.

[microshift advent crying in corner]

 

Like Ogre said, keep the cranks and just replace the chainring with the oval NW ring. You could also remove the left shifter and cable but leave the front derailleur in place with the limit screws adjusted to a fixed position to act as a chain retention device. I had to do this on the 1x9 bike pictured below without a clutch derailleur because I kept dropping the chain without a chain guide

If you insist on spending the money on new cranks, either 11sp or 12sp will work because the inner width of both chains is the same. You can also use a 9 speed chain on an 11 or 12 speed chainring if you want.

 

Box also has a 1x9...

Prime 9 Technology

Box Components was created with a rebellious vision and towering objective: to chart new courses and promote forward-thinking products.

boxcomponents.com

 

For those prices you might as well go SLX 10 speed then you have a lot more options for compatible components.

 

The Box Prime 9 is a really good 1 setup. It's 9 speed, but a wide range cassette. It's either 11-46 or 11-50t so you'll likely need a new derailleur and shifter. The whole group set is pretty reasonably priced tho, if you can find it.

When the crankset is listed as '11 speed' or '12 speed' it's mostly due to the chainring. Chain rings are easily swapped out. You can pretty much buy whatever cranks you want (that fit your BB and hub spacing), put a narrow-wide chainring on it, and be good to go. Then when you're ready to upgrade, buy a groupset that includes DR, cassette, chain and shifter.

 

Sounds like a downgrade to me. And I'm an 1x user.

 

1x12 is different from the rest. I wouldn't play that game. I'd go to 1x11 and call it good. XTR shifter, XT or SLX everything else.

 

For all new parts, 12-speed isn't that much more expensive. Why invest in an outdated platform?

 

I guess if he goes with that gigantic hg compatible shimano 12 spd cassette it would be ok. I'm thinking of him converting to a microspline hub.

 

I wouldn't go 1x if it wasn't 12sp and had a 10t sprocket. There's enough range and gear spacing lost when going 1x that it doesn't make sense to make it worse.

 

As some one who was experimenting with 1x in the 90s with 8 speed, then 9 speed a few years later, then 10 speed after that, I was never happy with the results for the riding where I live. Coastal California has tons of steep punchy climbs and the gearing offered by the 8 and 9 speed cassettes was abysmal. It got a little better with 10 speed and the Praxis Works wide range 10 speed cassette, but that set up still had serious limitations. I skipped over 11 speed and went straight to the X0-1 Eagle set-up and never looked back.

No matter which system you choose, just save up and get it as a whole package. No half measures. That way everything just slaps on and off you go with a smile on your face. Like others have mentioned, unless you want to replace the rear wheel or possibly the driver (not all drivers can be switched), I would suggest buying an 11 speed cassette, 11 speed RD, 11 speed shifter, new chain, new cable housing, and a NW chain ring. That way everything plays nice together and all has the same level of wear. I would be surprised if this couldn't be done for $200 or less, assuming mid level components.

It is possible to find a 12 speed cassette using the HG driver, but they tend to be pretty heavy.

 

box derailleurs are so easy to adjust

 

Thanks for all the input. I think for now I'm just going to get a cheap oval chain ring to give it a try. There's $15 one on Amazon with lots of decent reviews. Even if it sucks it is $15.

I mostly ride on my smaller chain ring, towards the middle of the overall range I have, and it is very rare for me to get into the lowest/easiest gear. So i'm thinking I will be ok with the 9 gears, for now at least. I just got a dropper post (still in the box) so need to make way for the lever!

It is not clear to me if I do go 12sp, if that will require a new hub and if that will require new wheel or what. Knowing myself, if I'm going to do it, I'm not going to want to just go to 11sp if 12sp is an option. Unless it starts to really not make sense money wise.

All the feedback is much appreciated.

 

Thanks for all the input. I think for now I'm just going to get a cheap oval chain ring to give it a try. There's $15 one on Amazon with lots of decent reviews. Even if it sucks it is $15.

I mostly ride on my smaller chain ring, towards the middle of the overall range I have, and it is very rare for me to get into the lowest/easiest gear. So i'm thinking I will be ok with the 9 gears, for now at least. I just got a dropper post (still in the box) so need to make way for the lever!

It is not clear to me if I do go 12sp, if that will require a new hub and if that will require new wheel or what. Knowing myself, if I'm going to do it, I'm not going to want to just go to 11sp if 12sp is an option. Unless it starts to really not make sense money wise.

All the feedback is much appreciated.

Just be aware that the cheap oval chainrings on Amazon are oval in shape only and are meant to be cheap knockoffs of oval technology. They aren't phased or "clocked" to give you the true benefits of the oval shape in the proper pedal stroke position. Speaking from experience. My cheap Amazon oval is now a paperweight and I went with an Absolute Black. No comparison.

 

I think it's reasonable to go 1x9. I've held all my bikes on 1x11 for the last ~4 years (including a new one i just built); nothing against 12s (and ~1-piece construction of xD cassettes does make for some very light weights) - but 12s is simply not a big upgrade for mountain for me at all -

1. range: overall range is only ~10% less.
2. steps cog-to-cog: on road (if i did it) I imagine you'd care about nice close gear selections - but on mountain 90% of the time it's UP or DOWN (at least for my area) meaning i'm nearly always switching gears 2-3 at a time as fast as the shifter can go.

this page has all the aftermarket wider range casettes i'm aware of - plenty of options in 9sp: Wide Range Cassettes, The Complete List - BIKEPACKING.com.

You WILL need a new RD i believe (I don't know the 9sp model numbers - perhaps the upgrade you mention already covers 46t or 50t - if you were to try 11sp, note the new (2020) shimano m5100 accomodates 51t, has shadow clutch, is ~$60.)

 

1 x 10 with advent, I did that on a family members bike it is flawless would do it again to get to 1 by.. it as 11 to 49 tooth.. works great

 

4 month update... I am happy with my 1x9 setup. Once in a while I wish I had another easier gear or two available to me but where I ride the most it's not an issue. I plan on getting a new bike (full suspension) at some point (maybe next year) so I don't see putting money into adding more gears. Having a dropper post (PNW Coast Suspension) is great and having the space available for the level is reason enough to get rid of the front derailleur. My next upgrade will be shorter cranks. Been researching and it seems I could benefit from going from my 175mm to like 160mm.