[Scott_123]

The problem with these videos is every bike is different. Just start at 30% sag and ride. I usually I ride the same loop each day while getting the fork and shock where I want them. This way I can make a more accurate assessment of the changes. After you get things where you want it, then you kinda know what to do when you are running different trails that might need a few clicks here and there.

 

[FrontRangeFriend]

Other than doing a lowers service immediately I'd say just start with the recommended settings from Fox, get a few rides in on it to let it break in, and then start bracketing. I found I landed pretty close to the recommended settings after doing that.

Helpful note from Vorsprung. Set your HSR to the middle (or Fox's recommended settings) and then use your LSR to tune the feel you're looking for and adjust HSR as need if your LSR doesn't have the range you want. Steve goes into more detail somewhere in here but the tldr is basically the HSR now acts as a "range adjuster"

 

[chadbrochills]

I used the Pivot guide to dial in my '21 36 Factory after seeing someone else recommend it. Tried FOX's recommended settings for my weight, 145lbs, and it seemed harsh.

 

[Dougal]

That's a misleading guide. Lower or higher spring rate can change the overall support and feel of the fork, but wont change the return speed, to control this you’re using the rebound knob.

Instead, use the recommended settings as starting point to balance between the spring rate and the rebound speed for your weight.

Huh?

Spring rate directly changes return force.

Did you miss the part where I said every one of these dynos differently on rebound?

 

[Scott_123]

I used the Pivot guide to dial in my '21 36 Factory after seeing someone else recommend it. Tried FOX's recommended settings for my weight, 145lbs, and it seemed harsh.

View attachment 2080183

View attachment 2080184

Nice to see Pivot doing this but if I ran the pressure they recommend for my weight I not only could never get the needed sag but it would be very harsh. I weigh 185 before wearing any gear and I settled on 80 PSI. The trail I ride has some big rocks, boulders to climb and chunky downhills. When I get done I’ve used about 75% of my travel.

 

[SilentMTB]

Huh?

Spring rate directly changes return force.

Did you miss the part where I said every one of these dynos differently on rebound?

Spring rate can change the return force, for this you having the rebound knob to control the speed. You should try using it…

And don’t care about dyno and if some of the forks you tested gave you different results. These “fancy” dyno results are useless as long as whoever using the fork can find good settings that suites their needs, something that most users can do.

Anyways, this thread is about how to setup a fork, not dyno…

 

[MSU Alum]

Pull the tokens. If you hate it put them back. It's easy and quick.

 

[Dougal]

Spring rate can change the return force, for this you having the rebound knob to control the speed. You should try using it…

And don’t care about dyno and if some of the forks you tested gave you different results. These “fancy” dyno results are useless as long as whoever using the fork can find good settings that suites their needs, something that most users can do.

Anyways, this thread is about how to setup a fork, not dyno…

To setup suspension correctly you need to understand how it works and what everything does. You're not there yet.

The factory recommended settings don't work that well.

 

[SilentMTB]

To setup suspension correctly you need to understand how it works and what everything does. You're not there yet.

The factory recommended settings don't work that well.

My fork (36/Grip 2) works amazingly good, so looks like I know what im doing, and that's what matters most!

As for factory recommended settings, use them as starting point instead following them blindly… go learn how to setup your suspensions, then get beck to us.

 

[Dougal]

My fork (36/Grip 2) works amazingly good, so looks like I know what im doing, and that's what matters most!

As for factory recommended settings, use them as starting point instead following them blindly… go learn how to setup your suspensions, then get beck to us.

You only know the best you've ridden. Sounds like the best you've ever ridden is a stock fork.

The GRIP2VVC are harsh on sharp edges and low on compression damping. Aggressive and fast riders have to over-spring them a lot to compensate for that. Less aggressive riders end up running compression wide open to avoid the harshness.

I know a little bit on how to setup suspension. The stock GRIP2VVC needs modification to allow it to be setup correctly. Stock the mid-valve choking and the lack of base-valve damping really hinders them. The HSR/LSR rebound is also almost impossible to setup well without a dyno.

 

[Roo74]

So after your mods to the vvc dampner what are the useable range of the adjusters? Whats the cost if I sent you the dampner?

 

[Dougal]

So after your mods to the vvc dampner what are the useable range of the adjusters? Whats the cost if I sent you the dampner?

LSC range depends on how firm the tune is, firmer tunes get more range. HSC you're limited in range because it's preload based and trying to get more range adds more assembly preload which makes things suck.

But range doesn't matter once you're custom tuned unless you're radically changing setup for a radically changing riding type.
Like going from trail riding to casing jumps.

Because once you've got the right setup you don't need to monkey with it. It just does what it should all the time.

 

[Roo74]

Your website does not allow the mods without purchase of new dampner, that's why I asked about cost.

 

[Dougal]

Your website does not allow the mods without purchase of new dampner, that's why I asked about cost.

Yes We still have to finish all the Rockeater tunes. That category only has the complete dampers at present for Fox.
But we have the GRIP2VVC etc under Matrix Tuning: Fox F34, F36, F38, F40 & Marzocchi Z1 GRIP & GRIP2 2018+ Service, Matrix Tune & Upgrade Pricing | Shockcraft

It should set currency and tax by location, but look on the bar at the top of the page to check.

 

[Notthatbryan]

So after your mods to the vvc dampner what are the useable range of the adjusters? Whats the cost if I sent you the dampner?

After Dougal tuned the damper in my 36 I slowed LSR down 1 click and that's the only change I've made. Haven't needed to change anything else. It just works great. Better support and and none of the harshness that the grip 2 has stock.

 

[PhillipJ]

The problem with these videos is every bike is different. Just start at 30% sag and ride.

Measuring fork sag is next to useless as is setting up using sag but if you must use it as a starting point at least use the 15-20% recommended by Fox. 30% seems like it'd be a diving mess.

 

[SilentMTB]

You only know the best you've ridden. Sounds like the best you've ever ridden is a stock fork.

The GRIP2VVC are harsh on sharp edges and low on compression damping. Aggressive and fast riders have to over-spring them a lot to compensate for that. Less aggressive riders end up running compression wide open to avoid the harshness.

I know a little bit on how to setup suspension. The stock GRIP2VVC needs modification to allow it to be setup correctly. Stock the mid-valve choking and the lack of base-valve damping really hinders them. The HSR/LSR rebound is also almost impossible to setup well without a dyno.

I don't have any of these problems you claim this fork has. You have no idea what forks I’ve ridden or if my fork is stock or tuned... yet you jumped to conclusions, thats very strange behavior.

From your answers in this thread you sound like a salesman or shop assistant at best... not someone who actually knows how to setup his suspension. Good luck.

 

[Dougal]

I don't have any of these problems you claim this fork has. You have no idea what forks I’ve ridden or if my fork is stock or tuned... yet you jumped to conclusions, thats very strange behavior.

Yes you do have those problems. You just don't know what it feels like to not have them. Maybe you ride places where support and bump absorption doesn't even matter.

Your fork is stock. We know. Only owners of stock forks crow about factory recommended settings.

Why are you giving off "muddy runs" vibes?

 

[climbanymtn]

That's a misleading guide. Lower or higher spring rate can change the overall support and feel of the fork, but wont change the return speed, to control this you’re using the rebound knob.

Instead, use the recommended settings as starting point to balance between the spring rate and the rebound speed for your weight.

That guide was a bit confusing and hard to understand. I like your more practical approach @SilentMTB . The article I linked also uses more plainspeak than engineer-speak (no offense to Dougal).I realize that shock/fork tuning is dependent on what type of trails you are riding. If they are rocky vs smooth, if there's jumps, what speed you're riding at, etc. I'd like to find a mid-range tune that does most terrain well, realizing it will not be "optimized" for any specific type of terrain. I am not racing enduro or XC so it doen't really matter to me if my tune is slightly off for a given terrain. I don't plan to optimize it every time for each terrain I am riding.

My number one concern is getting good low bump sensitivity in my fork so that trail chatter and "washboard" trails don't kill my hands, arms and shoulders. I want the fork to be compliant in those situations and not rigid and barely absorbing those small bumps. Even at my weight I've never once bottomed out my 150 fork on drops. On that fork, on big hits and drops I can barely get 60-50% of the full travel which sucks. Hoping the 160 with GRIP2 solves this and small bump compliance with the right tuning.

 

[Scott_123]

My Marin has a 16 mm Lyrik and it was terrible. Harsh everywhere from small to big. Upgraded the Charger, fully serviced the rebound damper, and removed one volume spacer. I run the pressure slightly below what Rockshox recommends for my weight. The thing is transformed and totally plush. It is safe to say it is a whole new riding experance.

Just picked up a 160 mm Canyon Spectral with the Fox fork (basic model). Out of the gate this fork is easily as plush through travel as my Lyrik which surprised me. At this point I really don’t feel like it needs anything. I’m no expert rider but I have to hand it to Fox for making such a well behaved budget model fork.