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Looked at my 29 tire options. Decided To just suck it up and put on the dhr2 in 29x3.
It’s enormous and I love it.
Mounted up pretty easy. I did have to do the drag the tire lever to seat the bead trick on both sides. Not nearly as much popping as the Terrene tire when it hit the bead, but it’s holding air so far. I need to go out after bedtime and add the sealant.
View attachment 1958075
View attachment 1958076
Those are some beefy tires! [emoji3590]


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Discussion starter · #87 · (Edited)
I left them short side to dropout and tightened up.
All torqued up front and rear.
I’m two brake bleeds and a chain lubing from being done.
30x22 and I went ahead and made the chain short.
Will be trying the bagel with ‘short’ chain stays to begin with.

Image
 
I'm slow walking my N9 build but getting close. What rim ID are you using? I thought Spank only made 30mm. I thought about going 2.8 on mine, but with the 30mm rims I decided to stick to 2.6 to avoid carcass rollover. Good to know the 2.8 will fit with the dropouts slammed.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
What rim ID are you using?
Spank 395+ 'Oozy Trail'

They're super nice, but I haven't handled a bunch of rims in my time.

I'm running one 29" and one 27.5".

Now that I've had some time to learn more about plus tires, I see that 35mm recommended for 2.6", 40mm for 2.8" and 45mm for 3.0.

So I guess I'm underrimmed a bit. I have 2.6 and 2.8 tires in hand, I'm going to try them all over the next six months and see what works best for what I'm doing.

I see that race face has a selection of reasonably priced slightly lighter rims i35 thru i45.
 
Ah, nice - didn't know they had those. I'm a big Spank fan myself and am running Oozy trail rims on my Ti hardtail, albeit 30mm ones. I'll have to keep my eye on those, they are definitely some of the best AL rims I've encountered. I've never build wheels from scratch, but I'm competent and inclined so how hard could it be. Funny you mention Race Face, they are the other AL components company I inherently trust. Between Spank and RF they are the alloy manufacturing brain trust.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
I've never build wheels from scratch, but I'm competent and inclined so how hard could it be
It's not very hard. I've done four now and with some sage youtube guidance all are rolling round and straight still.

I don't have a truing stand or dishing tool, just using the frame or fork and a zip tie. I suppose if the fork/frame was way out of alignment then the wheel could be too, but on the plus side, they run super straight in the fork/frame they're built for.
I did buy a Mulfinger for the Bagel build, it was slightly more convenient than just using a flat blade screwdriver to initially fit the nipples. Glad to have it but definitely not required.

What being able to build wheels yourself does do is allow you to think of hubs and even rims as interchangeable, the same way you would think of a seat or handlebar. It's no longer 'forever' but 'until I find something better'.

And it is $50 to $100 per wheelset cheaper too.
 
I'm slow walking my N9 build but getting close. What rim ID are you using? I thought Spank only made 30mm. I thought about going 2.8 on mine, but with the 30mm rims I decided to stick to 2.6 to avoid carcass rollover. Good to know the 2.8 will fit with the dropouts slammed.
2.8 is kind tight, esp on wider rims, it depends on where you place the axle, type of tire, etc.. he chainstay bends get close to the side wall bulge if you run the wheel back. I'm running DHF 2.8 on a Scraper i45, it's close enough that I would end up with mud issues, so these wheels are getting broken down this weekend, rebuilding with KOM i30 and Aggressor 2.5/Spec GC 2.6

Like Grinchy, I build my own wheels, it's not hard, but it's a skill you have to practice. I also use my frame to tension and true, it's not worth the money to buy a stand.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
Luggage scale says 28.9 lb (13.1kg)
Spreadsheet says 28.8 lb (13,073g)
Total cost (actual or market value for parts bin items) - $2650

Item Weight / Cost %
Fork 15% / 20%
Front Wheel 19% / 9%
Rear Wheel 19% /12%
Frame 19% / 36%
Cranks/Chain 11% / 5%
Stuff on the frame 17% / 19%

Easy opportunities to drop weight:
Front tire!
Dropper post
Crankset
Cushcore
Seat

Oddities - Front wheel with that Maxxis 29x3 weighs the same as the rear with cushcore and SS drivetrain (29 vs 27.5) . . . 2519g vs 2526g

More ride updates coming after the long weekend. So far I've only been able to spend 10 min on my street and do one flight of stairs.
 
Turn the nut around.

BUT, it looks like you are running them slammed all the way forward, so no need for tensioner bolt/nut at all. It prevents the dropouts from sliding forward under chain tension. But if they are all the way forward, they have nowhere to go.

I left them short side to dropout and tightened up.
All torqued up front and rear.
I’m two brake bleeds and a chain lubing from being done.
30x22 and I went ahead and made the chain short.
Will be trying the bagel with ‘short’ chain stays to begin with.

View attachment 1958179
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Turn the nut around.

BUT, it looks like you are running them slammed all the way forward, so no need for tensioner bolt/nut at all. It prevents the dropouts from sliding forward under chain tension. But if they are all the way forward, they have nowhere to go.
They’re pretty close to slammed , maybe an 1/8” or so of screw being used.
I’ll swap it around.
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
FAQ from Canfield, includes the torque specs and tensioner instructions, of which a page with same info was also included with frame.
Not specific on tensioner nut direction. . .
 
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