[kosmo]

... so I am running NO volume spacers at all right now. 220psi, 5 clicks.

Front fork, I built the bike with a 32 step cast.... took the spacer out. Ran it today at 115 psi, 0 spacers. Pretty good!

My only real complaint is there ridiculously difficult ritual to change the rear shock volume spacer.

Top Fuel and Fuel EX guy here, and also ended up at no VRs at either end on both bikes. IMO, it's a Fox thing, though I do run a spacer in each end in really rough areas like Moab.

As far as the difficult in changing the rear shock VR, that's interesting, since it can be done in minutes on my bikes, without even removing the shock. Probably related to the "strut" design of the Supercaliber?

 

[DethWshBkr]

Top Fuel and Fuel EX guy here, and also ended up at no VRs at either end on both bikes. IMO, it's a Fox thing, though I do run a spacer in each end in really rough areas like Moab.

As far as the difficult in changing the rear shock VR, that's interesting, since it can be done in minutes on my bikes, without even removing the shock. Probably related to the "strut" design of the Supercaliber?

Yeah, it's the design.

I can mess around with all my volume spacers when doing initial setup. Ysually you can just let this air out, unthread the can, slide it down, pop a spacer and that's it.

On this bike you have to undo two screws, sit on the seat to push the shock away from the frame, then use an open ended BSA30 bottom bracket tool to remove the top cap. You can then swap out the spacer.
The difficulty was getting it back in place. I ended up having to turn the entire bike upside down stand on my saddle and pull up on the rear wheel extremely hard so that I could have a second person get the can to start threading.
Then just take your time doing about 1/8 turns getting the cap back into place. You have to make sure that your lockout/rebound adjuster/ fill valve are in the appropriate location as they can rotate. If they are not in the proper location they will hit the frame and not allow the shock to go into place properly.
I believe it's just a lot of air was stuck in the negative chamber, but I'm not sure how you can bleed it out of there.
Needless to say it was about a 25 minute job to change out the volume spacer, but it did accomplish what I was hoping to do!

 

[kosmo]

Yeah, it's the design.

I can mess around with all my volume spacers when doing initial setup. Ysually you can just let this air out, unthread the can, slide it down, pop a spacer and that's it.

On this bike you have to undo two screws, sit on the seat to push the shock away from the frame, then use an open ended BSA30 bottom bracket tool to remove the top cap. You can then swap out the spacer.
The difficulty was getting it back in place. I ended up having to turn the entire bike upside down stand on my saddle and pull up on the rear wheel extremely hard so that I could have a second person get the can to start threading.
Then just take your time doing about 1/8 turns getting the cap back into place. You have to make sure that your lockout/rebound adjuster/ fill valve are in the appropriate location as they can rotate. If they are not in the proper location they will hit the frame and not allow the shock to go into place properly.
I believe it's just a lot of air was stuck in the negative chamber, but I'm not sure how you can bleed it out of there.
Needless to say it was about a 25 minute job to change out the volume spacer, but it did accomplish what I was hoping to do!

That is a process!

I get that same problem with excessive negative pressure about every fifth or sixth time I swap VRs.

No idea what causes it, and/or why it is so intermittent.

Maybe an expert will weigh in.

 

[Negotiator50]

I had the same problem the first time I switched out the spacer. I also needed an extra pair of hands
However, it was much much easier the second time I did a spacer swap. That time, I was able to do it on my own without any help.


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[Negotiator50]

Deleted

 

[Negotiator50]

4th ride on mine, and slowly getting it dialed in.
First two rides, bike just felt really, really nervous.
I ended up recording the rear shock movement throughout an entire ride. I found that the rear was bobbing badly at 205 psi, and so I increased air pressure. Better at 220 psi, 5 clicks out on rebound, but now feeling harsh.
Took out the spacer, so I am running NO volume spacers at all right now. 220psi, 5 clicks.
It felt very, very good. I'll try 5 psi increments, and I'll record the shock again.

Front fork, I built the bike with a 32 step cast. I was running 105 psi, 1 spacer. Felt a bit too soft, and I had a a firm bottom out when slamming into some roots. Upped the pressure to 120, now too firm through the travel.
So, I took the spacer out. Ran it today at 115 psi, 0 spacers. Pretty good! I'll continue to make small pressure changes, and perhaps a click on the rebound either direction to test.

Think I'm settling on about 27 psi in the tires too. I built it with 23 mm internal carbon rims, and running 2.2 XR2s.

My only real complaint is there ridiculously difficult ritual to change the rear shock volume spacer.
Took two people to get it back together! Ha! Oh well.

Can I ask what your weight is? I'm about 230 lbs suited up and I went back to the green spacer after briefly trying the orange. Found the orange too harsh. I settled on Green spacer pumped to 190 psi.

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[DethWshBkr]

225!

190 psi? Wow. Don't you get any pedal bobbing?? I had terrible pedal bobbing at 205 psi and the .01 spacer

 

[JasperGr]

What are you weighing guys? 161psi here orange spacer

 

[Negotiator50]

225!

190 psi? Wow. Don't you get any pedal bobbing?? I had terrible pedal bobbing at 205 psi and the .01 spacer

Surprisingly, I don't feel much of any bobbing. It surprised me too. That's why I love this bike. Granted, you may be riding the bike a lot harder than I am.

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[DethWshBkr]

You can see when I stop pedaling, just how stiff the rear gets.
This was at 205 psi. Since increasing pressure, it handles much better, and I notice the harshness actually has gotten less. I think it was just so deep in the stroke before that it was not working properly.

 

[Negotiator50]

Any videos on how to service the rear shock and suspension for the supercaliber? The manual is a little light on the service information.

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[Udyr]

Does anyone know if the frame only option comes with black or kashima IsoStrut and if there is a different in the damper between the two coatings?

I want to build one but I can't stand the kashima color and it's hard to figure out if there is a difference in the frame between all of the different models.

The top end build lists Factory on the AXS build and has black IsoStrut coating but the frame only lists Performance. Usually Performance Elite is the black+higher end damper but maybe they just forgot to annotate it correctly?

 

[kdiddy]

According to the pictures and description, the shock is black. The frames are identical on the 9.7 through 9.9, except for the finish or remote lockout on the shock.

 

[tswp]

Any videos on how to service the rear shock and suspension for the supercaliber? The manual is a little light on the service information.

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No video that I've seen, but it's a pretty simple process. We've done a couple so far. It is made easier with a special press tool that is available from Trek that presses the seals back in (works in conjunction with a headset press tool). Your local dealer might be willing to share the available service documentation with you.

 

[tswp]

Does anyone know if the frame only option comes with black or kashima IsoStrut and if there is a different in the damper between the two coatings?

All of the frame-only Supercaliber options come with the black IsoStrut. That is confirmed, we've ordered them in every frame option color. Both of the black and Kashima IsoStrut's are available aftermarket as well, so they can be switched after the fact if you preferred the other color.

The damper is the exact same regardless of the color of the IsoStrut.

 

[twentyniner29]

Does anyone know if the frame only option comes with black or kashima IsoStrut and if there is a different in the damper between the two coatings?

I want to build one but I can't stand the kashima color and it's hard to figure out if there is a difference in the frame between all of the different models.

The top end build lists Factory on the AXS build and has black IsoStrut coating but the frame only lists Performance. Usually Performance Elite is the black+higher end damper but maybe they just forgot to annotate it correctly?

Frame only = non-kashima.

 

[twentyniner29]

Any videos on how to service the rear shock and suspension for the supercaliber? The manual is a little light on the service information.

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http://trek.scene7.com/is/content/T...brary/documents/Manuals/pdf/TK19_2020_Supercaliber_Service_Manual_EN-GB_WEB.pdf

 

[JasperGr]

I think he wants the shock service manual

 

[DethWshBkr]

Does anyone know if the frame only option comes with black or kashima IsoStrut and if there is a different in the damper between the two coatings?

I want to build one but I can't stand the kashima color and it's hard to figure out if there is a difference in the frame between all of the different models.

The top end build lists Factory on the AXS build and has black IsoStrut coating but the frame only lists Performance. Usually Performance Elite is the black+higher end damper but maybe they just forgot to annotate it correctly?

The frame only version is black. That's what I did.

 

[Jimmidale1]

Anyone have any issues with their Supercal creaking really bad? 4 rides on mine and it is creaking and popping.. Also, The Isostrut seems very very dry like there is no oil in the strut. It has the Kashima finish and makes a loud friction sound.