]Has anyone had their steel bike modified from a 1 inch head tube to a 1.25 inch head tube to run a newer shocks? If so where? thanks
1inch to 1.25 inch head tube
Ritchey
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Yes, 98 SIDs are the best quality by far. They are great forks that are very adjustable. The only problem is most of the adjustments (air volume, negative spring preload, damping) are inside. But the most well made SID by far. I have a couple and they weigh less than 2.5 pounds. With only 63mm travel it inherently stiffens the fork up torsionally over a longer travel SID with the same "chassis". I think its a really great XC racing fork even compared to the latest and greatest.Shayne said:
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995 Posts
Easilydonesah.
Legally, I should probably add: do NOT do this.
Also, unfortunately, the id of a 1" ht is 1.185+", leaving 42 thou for not only your adapter wall thickness, but clearance as well. Then again, if you like being called dangerboy, you'd know you earned it.
Suuure, it's easy, with a little cold swaging. You just take a 1.125" steel headset, put it in place, and if you pound hard enough, long enough, eventually it'll go right in.ritchey said:
Legally, I should probably add: do NOT do this.
Also, unfortunately, the id of a 1" ht is 1.185+", leaving 42 thou for not only your adapter wall thickness, but clearance as well. Then again, if you like being called dangerboy, you'd know you earned it.
second the magura
Unless you're really going for a retro look. I'd recommend a magura fork. the quiet underdog I reckon
ta
scant[/QUOTE]
Running a Magura Ronin on my Bonty race and it is a nice fork, not to heavy run with a fair bit of sag and the bike seems to like it.
Unless you're really going for a retro look. I'd recommend a magura fork. the quiet underdog I reckon
ta
scant[/QUOTE]
Running a Magura Ronin on my Bonty race and it is a nice fork, not to heavy run with a fair bit of sag and the bike seems to like it.
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244 Posts
A couple of questions for Rumpfy
I have a 92 Merlin that I owned since 94 with a Judy SL on it. The handling is ok but if I can get it a little quicker, even better. TIA!
What does the zero offset do for the handling of the bike? Do you know if the one piece lowers of the white judy are lighter than the three piece of the yellow sl?Rumpfy said:But...as others have said...stuff comes up all the time. You could find a Judy with a 1" steer (I've got three) and drop some Englund Total Air bits and you're on your way.
Hell, it you get the bolt on Judy steer/crown, you could even (carefully) cut the old steer/crown off a newer SID of your choice and slide the 1" steer/crown on in it's place providing the measurements of the sanctions are the same and weren't damaged in the cutting process.
Pace out of the UK makes a good 1" fork from what I hear too...but not available to the general public of the US...
White Judy with zero offset Bontrager crown (steel) and a Yellow ex-team Ritchey fork...all had for closer to the $100 range.
![Image]()
Easier options are out there!
I have a 92 Merlin that I owned since 94 with a Judy SL on it. The handling is ok but if I can get it a little quicker, even better. TIA!
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490 Posts
Here's what I'm going to try...
Even though I've been blessed with a one-of-a-kind 'Skareb' fork for my Bontrager, I am still drawn to the older bikes that do require 1" steer-tubed forks. I have a couple of options, one being that I am actively looking for a 1997 Manitou FS fork that I happen to have a 1" steerer/crown for. I rode one of these forks for about four years with absolutely no complaints. Plus, I know the innards like tha back of my hand. Easy solution. Difficult solution: take a Judy crown of the oh-so-popular 1.125" variety, and graft in a 1" steer tube. I need to use a 5,000# arbor press to 'knock out' the 1.125" steerer. Then I will need the help of a machinist to turn me a bushing to fit the difference in diameters...methinks I will coax a fellow co-worker with either beer or free coffee for this feat. Then, I will just need to assemble the 'Franken-assembly' with Loctite 680 (green), the super tough stuff used for bonding press-fit bushings and shafts. That shee-ite is really tough stuff. The assembly should never fail and should perform as well as anything from the factory.
Here's what we all need to do...Petition Manitou with scores of signatures requesting special ordering of Manitou forks equipped with 1" steerers. I tried mightily with Bobby Acuna (rep) to no avail. I think that if MANY signatures were emblazoned onto a well-planned petition, and taken to a higher level of R&D/marketing, we could all be using the new SPV technology and be taking bikes with older geometry to the absolute limits. I speak very personally that my Bontrager Race handles MUCH better with the increase in fork travel and standard fork rake...opposed to the intensely tight-handling 1.25" fork rake that it came equipped with. Man, Keith really knew what he was doing.
Any proponents for the petition can email me directly and we can see how loud a voice we can all make.
Latah
Even though I've been blessed with a one-of-a-kind 'Skareb' fork for my Bontrager, I am still drawn to the older bikes that do require 1" steer-tubed forks. I have a couple of options, one being that I am actively looking for a 1997 Manitou FS fork that I happen to have a 1" steerer/crown for. I rode one of these forks for about four years with absolutely no complaints. Plus, I know the innards like tha back of my hand. Easy solution. Difficult solution: take a Judy crown of the oh-so-popular 1.125" variety, and graft in a 1" steer tube. I need to use a 5,000# arbor press to 'knock out' the 1.125" steerer. Then I will need the help of a machinist to turn me a bushing to fit the difference in diameters...methinks I will coax a fellow co-worker with either beer or free coffee for this feat. Then, I will just need to assemble the 'Franken-assembly' with Loctite 680 (green), the super tough stuff used for bonding press-fit bushings and shafts. That shee-ite is really tough stuff. The assembly should never fail and should perform as well as anything from the factory.
Here's what we all need to do...Petition Manitou with scores of signatures requesting special ordering of Manitou forks equipped with 1" steerers. I tried mightily with Bobby Acuna (rep) to no avail. I think that if MANY signatures were emblazoned onto a well-planned petition, and taken to a higher level of R&D/marketing, we could all be using the new SPV technology and be taking bikes with older geometry to the absolute limits. I speak very personally that my Bontrager Race handles MUCH better with the increase in fork travel and standard fork rake...opposed to the intensely tight-handling 1.25" fork rake that it came equipped with. Man, Keith really knew what he was doing.
Any proponents for the petition can email me directly and we can see how loud a voice we can all make.
Latah
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17,663 Posts
The zero offset pushes the wheel back towards the bike a little bit. The steering actually becomes a bit more 'twitchy especially at low speeds. The faster you go, the more stable it is. The white Judy is a bolt on steer/crown same as the yellow one aside from the steel steer vs. the alloy steer on the yellow Judy. I can't say there is a significant difference in weight.MaukaRunner said:
Changing the stem length and bar width are the only other way I can think of to alter the steering.
I'm not sure Bontragers purpose for making the zero offset crowns....perhaps to complement the Bonty frame design/geometry.
Fork steerer mod
loonyOne ... I've been thinking more of the 1.125 steerer tube mod and a (possibly) simpler solution, especially in regards to your "Difficult" method described, would be to ...
1. cut the steerer just above the crown. clean/smooth.
2a. mill out the remaining steerer in crown leaving a 1" ID (inside diameter) and 1/16" wall thickness sleeve then all you need to do is insert a standard 1" diameter steerer tube, with decent wall thickness ... OR
2b. don't mill crown and simply mill 1" steerer (from wider diameter stock or 1" made narrower at crown insertion point) to slip into crown+old steerer sleeve...
3. ... then bond with Loctite or (as I might be inclined to do) tack weld from under side (as per my thoughts earlier in this thread). You could probably even thread insert it in, tap+die both steerer and crown, then add a keyway on underside to lock it in.
No arbor or bushings needed!
The Loctite method does sound intriguing though because the materials can be mixed, e.g. Sid carbon crown with 1" AL or steel steerer.
Good stuff.
Note: I know there are easier methods, but these mods can be crafted from one complete shock and a machinist/welder ... waiting for a late 90's 1" steerer SID to be put up for sale is tearful LOL
loonyOne ... I've been thinking more of the 1.125 steerer tube mod and a (possibly) simpler solution, especially in regards to your "Difficult" method described, would be to ...
1. cut the steerer just above the crown. clean/smooth.
2a. mill out the remaining steerer in crown leaving a 1" ID (inside diameter) and 1/16" wall thickness sleeve then all you need to do is insert a standard 1" diameter steerer tube, with decent wall thickness ... OR
2b. don't mill crown and simply mill 1" steerer (from wider diameter stock or 1" made narrower at crown insertion point) to slip into crown+old steerer sleeve...
3. ... then bond with Loctite or (as I might be inclined to do) tack weld from under side (as per my thoughts earlier in this thread). You could probably even thread insert it in, tap+die both steerer and crown, then add a keyway on underside to lock it in.
No arbor or bushings needed!
The Loctite method does sound intriguing though because the materials can be mixed, e.g. Sid carbon crown with 1" AL or steel steerer.
Good stuff.
Note: I know there are easier methods, but these mods can be crafted from one complete shock and a machinist/welder ... waiting for a late 90's 1" steerer SID to be put up for sale is tearful LOL
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