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for those that are interested in this, i just did this conversion on my 2022 epic size large. I went the bikeyoke EP03 route and went with a 210x50 sidluxe (95mm travel). The shock has a Medium compression tune and Medium rebound tune on it. I set it up at 20% sag which equaled bang on 150psi at my rider weight of 195 lbs. One thing i was going for was not having a remote lockout as i dont like the added cables and all that jazz, i wanted something i could just ride. After some testing this weekend i found the climbing and sprinting ability still very impressive. on a full sprint on pavement i could only get the shock to about the 35% line with the oring which is about 17mm of shock travel. I saw the same amount of movement when sprinting up a smooth climb as well. Im very impressed with how this performs without a lockout and dont see myself adding one at all, the suspension doesnt really "bob" so im assuming this bike does have alot of antisquat in it contrary to people saying it needed the brain to be efficient.
 
Hey i have a 2019 Sworks epic and want to remove brain compleatly, I have ordered the necessary part for the rear but dont know which charger to get and mor importantly how to install it
Attached is a table of compatibility and dimensions of shock absorbers according to BikeYoke in case it is useful to you. On the BikeYoke website you can find this table and other documents.
 

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Question for those that made the brainless conversion for the 2021 (and on) Epic: did you just remove the brain stuff installed in the rear and let the hole exposed, or is necessary to put something in there (either to prevent things from getting into the frame and/or provide some sort of structural support that eventually the brain cylinder was providing while installed to the carbon material of the frame)?

In other words: I was in doubt if the frame could become structurally weaker without the cylinder installed in, and also if leaving the hole open to air would have let things get into the hole.
 
Question for those that made the brainless conversion for the 2021 (and on) Epic: did you just remove the brain stuff installed in the rear and let the hole exposed, or is necessary to put something in there (either to prevent things from getting into the frame and/or provide some sort of structural support that eventually the brain cylinder was providing while installed to the carbon material of the frame)?

In other words: I was in doubt if the frame could become structurally weaker without the cylinder installed in, and also if leaving the hole open to air would have let things get into the hole.
Same here, until now i left it open. The plug from a shop in the US isn't worth the money/shipping. Maybe I'll print sth, to use this place for my tubeless kit/tool
 
For everyone that might be interested in this thread, I got DT 232 series fork and rear shock to turn my epic brainless.

Got the EP03 from bikeyoke but here are the first "issues" that my bike shop run into: the dimensions of the eyelets of different shocks, the thickness in particular, are frequently different between different shocks. There are spacer supposed to be put in place between the eyelets and the housing in the frame to fit it in the center and recover any gap. These are not supplied together with the shock.
The bushing in the eyelets of different shocks may have a slightly different hole diameters. Also in this case all gaps must be filled to avoid any play in use. Also in this case nothing came either with the shock or with the yoke.

As I'm not familiar with these details and the bike dealer I use to refer to is a C'dale dealer and not Specialized, I've now brought the bike to another shop, who will check if he can find out all the needful..


If anyone has suggestions on where to find these "ferrules" or bushing/spacers I'm open to learn..

To add some fun to the story: Roval wheels came with torque caps installed since fork is a SID.
I've been surfing on the web to understand what adaptors where needed now with a "normal" fork. I should have found these are the S205900006.

All this happening in racing season, when both fork and shock suffered some malfunctions and I was forced to take up the transformation on a hurry.. <:..)
 
For everyone that might be interested in this thread, I got DT 232 series fork and rear shock to turn my epic brainless.

Got the EP03 from bikeyoke but here are the first "issues" that my bike shop run into: the dimensions of the eyelets of different shocks, the thickness in particular, are frequently different between different shocks. There are spacer supposed to be put in place between the eyelets and the housing in the frame to fit it in the center and recover any gap. These are not supplied together with the shock.
The bushing in the eyelets of different shocks may have a slightly different hole diameters. Also in this case all gaps must be filled to avoid any play in use. Also in this case nothing came either with the shock or with the yoke.

As I'm not familiar with these details and the bike dealer I use to refer to is a C'dale dealer and not Specialized, I've now brought the bike to another shop, who will check if he can find out all the needful..


If anyone has suggestions on where to find these "ferrules" or bushing/spacers I'm open to learn..

To add some fun to the story: Roval wheels came with torque caps installed since fork is a SID.
I've been surfing on the web to understand what adaptors where needed now with a "normal" fork. I should have found these are the S205900006.

All this happening in racing season, when both fork and shock suffered some malfunctions and I was forced to take up the transformation on a hurry.. <:..)
For shock mount hardware you can provide the required measurements (width, bolt size) and Tftuned can custom make them to fit: :)

 
Looking at the Bikeyoke site the Bikeyoke EP03 should include a lower bushing, and also the allen bolt, as part of the kit:


Image

For the upper shock eyelet where it attaches to the front triangle it’s a 8mm inside diameter x 20mm size mounting on a 2021 - 2023 Epic or Epic Evo. The allen bolt is re-used.


From Tftuned it is a TF Tuned Mount Kit 12.7mm 8mm Bolt Hole

M8x20mm size.


 
Looking at the Bikeyoke site the Bikeyoke EP03 should include a lower bushing, and also the allen bolt, as part of the kit:


View attachment 2145112
For the upper shock eyelet where it attaches to the front triangle it’s a 8mm inside diameter x 20mm size mounting on a 2021 - 2023 Epic or Epic Evo. The allen bolt is re-used.


From Tftuned it is a TF Tuned Mount Kit 12.7mm 8mm Bolt Hole

M8x20mm size.



Shouldn't the necessary parts depend also on the shock that you intend to fit?

For instance: I remove the existing bushing/bearing from the upper eyelet of the R232, but the hole is a touch bigger than the bushing provided with the yoke.
And of course if I leave the ferrules of the shock (which bushing the way are very smart as it is a sort of globe bushing allowing the shock to always work parallel to its axis even if any slight torsion or unexpected loads happen) the bushing of the bikeyoke is way too big..
 
Bikeyoke have a PDF on their website with the required dimensions:

In order to fit the Bikeyoke EP03 the lower shock eyelet must have a 12.7mm bushing pressed into it.


Image




The DT Swiss R232 is a metric sized shock so ought to have a standard sized shock eyelet as well. You should measure the eyelet diameter with vernier calipers, as pictured here, to make sure that the eyelet by itself (without a bushing) is 15mm. If it is 15mm then the fix will be to press out the DT Swiss bushing and fit some 12.7mm bushings instead. Making the eyelet the correct diameter for the Bikeyoke EP03 parts: :)

.

Image
 
Bikeyoke have a PDF on their website with the required dimensions:
In order to fit the Bikeyoke EP03 the lower shock eyelet must have a 12.7mm bushing pressed into it.

The DT Swiss R232 is a metric sized shock so ought to have a standard sized shock eyelet as well. You should measure the eyelet diameter with vernier calipers, as pictured here, to make sure that the eyelet by itself (without a bushing) is 15mm. If it is 15mm then the fix will be to press out the DT Swiss bushing and fit some 12.7mm bushings instead. Making the eyelet the correct diameter for the Bikeyoke EP03 parts: :)
.
Again thank you so much for your support. I'm totally unaware of anything related to mounting specs and requirements for shocks (and hoped this matter could be standard routine for a bike shop).
I'm now learning quite a bit on this subject: for instance I learned that the ball bushings that the DT is equipped with as a standard are not suitable to mount the bottom eyelet in vertical position and with the bike yoke. It'll need to be removed and replaced with straight DU bushings (I can understand why: too many degrees of freedom).

I hope that the bike shop that I referred to now, that is quite reknown for shock rebuilding and servicing, will know how to sort this out with these additional details.

Thanks again, I'll keep you posted with news as I'll have them.
 
For potential future interest in this post from other users I just wanted to update everyone: I managed to complete the conversion successfully.

I installed a DT Swiss F232 Remote in the front, and a R232one Remote 210x55 with the bikeyoke on the back: for this last one the shop tech left the globe bushing in the upper eyelet, and added DT spacers/ferrules that filled the space in the frame for the shock installation, while straight DU bushings were necessary in the lower eyelet to avoid excessive freedom of movement. For this the shop managed to fabricate them appositely with a lathe, rather than ordering and waiting delivery (I was a bit in a hurry to get the bike back for racing events).


The feel with the bike has changed quite a bit: in locked mode the suspensions are super firm, eventually not granitic as a hard tail can be but I can now clearly feel how much of the "plushy-ness" is coming from the tyre pressure. I'd probably go for it for any tarmac of super smooth climb.
The pedaling mode is the one that reminds me more of the brain off-road, still with some differences/nuances. I like the current configuration more when climbing seated at regular pace as the platform feels very solid and efficient, still nicely compliant. I don't feel any bobbing and no unpleasant roughness or bump, and I obviously never feel the brain opening/closing. When standing and pushing, or in case of sudden spints/accelerations, or when I need to overcome a techy section maybe helping with the whole body the brain probably felt a bit more reactive. One can probably get around this by switchin to Close whenever more support is needed and back to Pedal afterwards, but to be clear: to me that's really nitpicking of minor nuances, and secondly I believe that this would just be for personal preference as I'm convinced there's no absolute speed/efficiency gain to be gotten here.
The open mode is the one where I feel the most evident changes: as I open the suspension the bike becomes immediately much "softer", giving the feel that it would eat anything you throw on its way. Somewhere here on the forum I read that the brain felt like a reduced travel suspension. I don't know if I feel like I have longer travel now: I'm not really convinced that the bike became more capable, and I still need to actively drive and absorb roughness during the descents, but all in all I'm now I'm more confident, more relaxed and less fatigued at the end, which turned out in better times on same segments I've been riding for years (both in races, or in trainings or easy rides).


The bike lost 0.3-0.4kg (0,6-0,9 lbs).
 
The open mode is the one where I feel the most evident changes: as I open the suspension the bike becomes immediately much "softer", giving the feel that it would eat anything you throw on its way. Somewhere here on the forum I read that the brain felt like a reduced travel suspension. I don't know if I feel like I have longer travel now: I'm not really convinced that the bike became more capable, and I still need to actively drive and absorb roughness during the descents, but all in all I'm now I'm more confident, more relaxed and less fatigued at the end, which turned out in better times on same segments I've been riding for years (both in races, or in trainings or easy rides).
I personally run the sidluxe ultimate rear shock that is lever operated (open/closed). I think i put it on closed once on the road, otherwise i leave it fully open and it rides very good, full sprint around 1500 watties at 200lb rider weight in "open" mode the shock compresses to the 35% sag mark. and for me thats completely fine. the pedaling platform is actually very good in my setup with my shock tune at least where i can set and forget. and yes in open mode vs brain i feel like i gained alot of confidence in jumping/hitting downhills.
 
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