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Sandia Mtns in the Albuquerque, NM area. I originally posted different versions of these pics, as well as a few more, here.
Kind of funny that I asked...because of the very few non-local places I've gone MTBing, that exact place is one of them. Was there back in 2017 :)

These Turners look fantastic...maybe I'll build one up one day
 
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After almost 11 months, I finally finished building my Nitrous. Can't wait to rip some Central Coast singletrack on it.

Size large, weight is about 24.5 lbs.
View attachment 2111988
Took it out for its first ride yesterday, and holy shizzballs! It was a classic Turner moment. Riding it through tight, twisty single track, it was like I've been on it for months. After years of riding full suspension bikes, getting on a modern titanium hardtail was a revelation.

DT, I'm just spitballin' here, but have you ever thought about making something like the Nitrous in a full suspension frame? ;)
 
Took it out for its first ride yesterday, and holy shizzballs! It was a classic Turner moment. Riding it through tight, twisty single track, it was like I've been on it for months. After years of riding full suspension bikes, getting on a modern titanium hardtail was a revelation.

DT, I'm just spitballin' here, but have you ever thought about making something like the Nitrous in a full suspension frame? ;)
he did a few years ago, it was the Turner Flux. That bike was my all time favorite bike
 
he did a few years ago, it was the Turner Flux. That bike was my all time favorite bike
I would argue the Czar was the FS spiritual predecessor to the Nitrous (that was why I added a ;)) . I still have mine, and it was my favorite for a long time. The only reason I replaced it is that with the large size frame, I have to run a really long (100mm) stem to not feel cramped. This leads to some handling weirdness with so much weight over the front. The Nitrous fixes that, and doesn't sacrifice steering responsiveness for stability that most modern bikes do. I'd really like to ride an Exie or Mach 4 SL to compare. My Ripley is definitely biased toward stability.

And with the Gila now available, my N+1 craving is very strong. A belt drive compatible single speed with Nitrous geometry... Yes, please.
 
Anyone have the thread pitch/length for the rear axle? Not sure if there is a difference between the current post mount frame andthe original (mine is the flat mount).
Seems like my axle has a thread issue. It is really difficult to get it started when installing the wheel, so will look to try a new one.
 
Anyone have the thread pitch/length for the rear axle? Not sure if there is a difference between the current post mount frame andthe original (mine is the flat mount).
Seems like my axle has a thread issue. It is really difficult to get it started when installing the wheel, so will look to try a new one.
Never mind - for now. I took the derailleur side mounting plate off, and the axle threaded in fine. Once I tightened everything up, it was back to normal. So thinking it was a minor alignment issue that prevented the threding from engaging.
 
For about 10 years the through axle was 174mm long with a thread pitch of 1.75mm . This is the same with the DTSwiss axle with handle or the later 'bolts'. The chainring bolt holding the derailleur hanger on does not need to be tight, it is easier to thread the axle in to the 'hanger if the hanger can wobble a bit and once you tighten up the rear axle, the hanger is plenty tight and all is good.

With the start of UDH, the axle was shortened to 170mm but for a season the thread pitch was still 1.75mm. I have 1.75mm Thread Pitch UDH nuts if anyone has a need, if you have the course thread just tell me when buying a new UDH hanger.

Plenty of extra 170x1mm TP axles if someone wants to use the SRAM Ttype rear derailleur on any of the UDH models.

DT
 
I’ve decided to purchase a Nitrous! I’ve resolved in my head about internal cable routing.

one question still remains, is the geometry chart sagged or unsagged at 120mm?
 
Clampers will not fit on the Nitrous mounts between the chainstay and seat stay. If Clampers are required in anyone's new build list, then the Gila with a change of brake side slider will work perfect. Just ask for the high mount slider when you order the Gila, this puts the caliper at 11:00 like the Scrub and offers plenty of room for big caliper and big rotor.

DT
 
It doesn't matter what others are riding, what do You think would fit you better? Stems are fit aids and few of us are the same in any way, so stems, spacer stacks and bars need to be individualized. Beg or borrow loaner stems or buy cheap stems off Amazon for under $20 and do some testing. I would not cut the fork until you have tried a couple different lengths, and moved the spacers above and below for contrast, only then get out the saw!

DT
 
Sadly the last decade of fashionably-short-stems-for-all has moved most away from what is good for the individual to what looks good leaning against the signpost. Since most of us that are in good health are highly adaptable, our bodies will quickly conform to the bike, so don't spend a lot of time on each configuration, just swap some parts and do a quick loop. repeat. Preferably doing a couple on the same day. Use a sharpie to put a hash mark on the handlebar at the stem/cap gap so you can keep an eye on clocking the bar sweep. The initial impression should not be discounted. Have fun

DT
 
Sadly the last decade of fashionably-short-stems-for-all has moved most away from what is good for the individual to what looks good leaning against the signpost. Since most of us that are in good health are highly adaptable, our bodies will quickly conform to the bike, so don't spend a lot of time on each configuration, just swap some parts and do a quick loop. repeat. Preferably doing a couple on the same day. Use a sharpie to put a hash mark on the handlebar at the stem/cap gap so you can keep an eye on clocking the bar sweep. The initial impression should not be discounted. Have fun

DT
Agree with this.

I think stem length and height is like many other aspects of bike design… Any change will have its pros and cons. It’s very dependent on how you like your bike to handle and the type of trails and riding you like to do.

At risk of getting long winded here… bikes in general have become very dh focused. This is sort of silly when you think about it. The dh time on any ride is only a small fraction of your time on the bike. And descending most trails on any rig (within reason) is lots of fun. But climbing and traversing on any bike may not be fun. Go too dh oriented on your bike and the 85% of your ride time spent traversing and climbing will not be fun. Now this is coming from someone who still rides lift assist on his dc dh bike but also totally digs old school xc climbing tech and 4 hour pedally suffer-fests.

The majority of riders I see are now on dh focused rigs that have them spend lots of time pedaling to the top of a trail on a dirt road then a relatively short time bombing back down as quickly as possible. Then having no desire to slog back up the dirt road to do it again. An hour after they’ve started they are finished. The “epic ride” is dying. Few people want to pedal a 34# dh focused rig around for four or five hours.

I feel like there is a dwindling minority of riders who still makes the most of techie climbs, tight flatter twistie, rolling terrain on natural featured trails.

Dh is great but bike setup too focused on this is missing out. Gotta have both the ying and the yang. Gotta have the rain to get the rainbow. Gotta truly suffer the climb to enjoy the view.


I think I’m spun up as I just finished watching Pinkbike‘s trail bike review. They did a good job and it was real fun to watch, but I don’t think those bikes are trail bikes. Way too dh focused and not that fun to climb on. While they did talk about climbing, like most videos, the vast majority of the footage showed riders going dh. That just ain’t reality. Dh is only a tiny part of a real trail ride on a real trail bike.
 
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