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I bought an ‘open box’ of straight gauge spokes on eBay for something like 7 cents per spoke. I think it had 425 or so spokes in it and was around $30 shipped. Wheelsmith spokes.
 
reusing outdated spoke sizes is the best way

go to bike shop, that’s been around awhile I’m sure they’ve got something they’d be happy to sell you for cheaper than rod

I bought an old box of no longer used dt champion 266mm spokes for 26” wheels….500 spokes for like 20 bucks. This is the cheapest strongest stainless steel rod I could possibly purchase

I can do 4 spokelets per 266 mm spoke as I roll my own threads

that’s 2000 spokes worth for 20 bucks
 
Hi Adam. I find these new spokes very interesting so was glad to find your video on the Ali Clarkson channel on YouTube. Super job covering so much about them and what you figured out. I have an idea regarding the design of the spoke end which I think would improve the design of the spoke head, a design that not only improves how cord stress is handled but also provides a way to further reduce the amount of aluminum for even lighter spokes. After making the loop using the jig which brings the shorter 'working end' of the spoke 'head' down alongside its main body - I think there is room for improvement by leaving both pieces straight, cutting the working end shorter and, instead of creating curves that energy must flow though - just weld the two pieces together tightly beside each other. Think of how a cotter pin bends back around onto itself. The collection of spokes would weigh less due to a considerable amount of metal reduced. I'm only a network engineer so materials aren't my thing, but the idea seemed solid enough to share.
 
Thanks for your thoughts and sharing them!

I am not sure I have perfectly grasped the idea, but that sounds a lot like the solutions MaineLotus and Mikevdv have in place. See post 361 in this thread. Did I imagine that correctly?

I have decided to continue with bury / glued method. It's held up just fine on the front of my MTB, will be doing the rear soon. The set I built for my own road bike and also a pair for a local rider who is out most days remain intact after a year. If it works for Berd, I'm happy enough with that.
 
I've got many sets of these in heavy use on mountain and e-bikes.
My final tip after thousands of kilometers is to make sure both the hub holes and the hub flange have no sharp edges.
I had to rework the hub flanges on a number of wheels.

Rear drive-side is by far the toughest on spokes.
 
Just coming back to this as I'm rebuilding my rear wheel now. The Robline DM20 held up well but the snowflake pattern I added made the spokes chafe at the intersection. None of them broke but they got close! This did take load off the hitch at the flange though, they are all intact there.

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Will be using the Robline SK99 Kiteline for the back wheel, and the "new" lacing method I posted about previously. This has worked beautifully on the front wheel, it only needed one small tweak after the first ride and since then hasn't dropped tension or gone out of true at all.
 

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I did a tension test on my prototype this weekend after putting it off for too long. I tensioned it up to 200kg and it dropped immediately down. It didn't stretch, though... The eye splice opened itself. I had a drop of Insta-flex glue in the junktion but it seemed to pull the end out. The rope is 2mm and the bury is 10cm. Anyone have any clues? The bury splice on the roughened spoke didn't move at all - happy about that one. Used instaflex in the end to fix it, and it seemed rock solid.
 
I think I have an idea to how the splice failed. I made a new test spoke, and I dabbed some glue to the splice at the eye end. I think the glue stiffens too much and makes the splice not tight enough at load. I will leave it under tension over night and see how it goes. New unglued eye tomorrow.

Today's new splice
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Attached to the tension calibration device
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Full setup from Elevation Wheel company
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That would make sense to me. The "grab" is what creates the lock, gluing won't allow that to happen fully.

Looks like a good test rig! Hope the new test pieces work well.


Been riding the 1.5mm Robline Maui SK99 spokes for a bit now, fronts have been spot on but the rears have needed a few tweaks. Tension has dropped a couple of times now. Feels like this material is borderline at the rear for me. Lovely ride quality though.
 
Hey Everyone!

I finally have gotten around to building a wheelset with some Robline Oceanstat 20. I've been making test spokes, and trying to hit 300kg on a pull test, but the highest I've hit so far is 260kg.

I've been using the chinese finger trap method, using a 80mm spokelet (total length, so probably 65-70mm of dyneema spokelet overlap). Every time, the chinese finger trap has failed.

What length of spokelets have people found to be the ideal length?
 
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