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SPECIALIZED EPIC 2024

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#1,081 ·
dreicha said:
Ok, technically cables will fit but this rubber cover should come together with a bath sealant
View attachment 2092290
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The water that goes in via the top has to come out somewhere.😂

It’s the same headset as that on the Specialized Epic World Cup, with the same downsides. They haven’t improved it.

The rubber cover is more of a cosmetic item than a proper seal. It’s open to the elements all round the sides so water and dirt can gets past it easily to the upper headset bearing already.

On the S-Works at least it has the red anodised Cane Creek headset bearings which are high quality.

The non S-Works frames, without through headset cable routing, have exactly the same issue that the upper headset bearing is open to the elements round the sides too. The non S-Works frames have standard bearings however. The non S-Works frames are likely to find the headset bearings don’t last very long in wet conditions, even without the through headset routing.:(
 
#1,083 ·
WR304 said:
The non S-Works frames, without through headset cable routing, have exactly the same issue that the upper headset bearing is open to the elements round the sides too. The non S-Works frames have standard bearings however. The non S-Works frames are likely to find the headset bearings don’t last very long in wet conditions, even without the through headset routing.:(
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But at least those frequent upper bearing replacements will be painless thanks to the lack of cable tourism :LOL:
 
#1,084 ·
WR304 said:
The top cap cover is a piece of rubber with two holes cut in it. There’s enough space in the top cap cover holes that you could have two cables on each side without issue. The brake hose is the thickest cable but then the gear, dropper and remote lockout cables would all be thinner and take up less space.

This picture shows the remote lockout cable to the rear shock where it enters the top cap cover on my bike.:)

View attachment 2092217
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Personally I think that’s very poor design and looks bad…
 
#1,085 ·
I covered the holes in the rubber topcap of the headset with electrical tape. The exposed holes around the hoses weren’t a great look. It’s not waterproof but should keep dust from above out.:)

Image


This picture shows the underside of the rubber top cap cover with the bars turned fully sideways. That’s the bolt for the compression ring collar visible underneath showing how it’s open to the air from the sides.

Image
 
#1,088 ·
madskatingcow said:
Tape, makin' MacGyver proud :) Poor design unfortunately, and a solution I would hate looking at.
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I'm really grateful they haven't messed up the non-S Works models in the same way. People who defend cable tourism usually claim that it's not such a big issue because one doesn't need to replace upper headset bearings that often, but then you see these ridiculous designs which actually speed up bearing contamination.
 
#1,090 · (Edited)
WR304 said:
I’ve been trying to track down some of the worst creaks on my bike. One was coming from the bottom bracket area whilst pedalling. It sounds like a clicking noise.

View attachment 2091220

I took off the access port near the bottom bracket and had a look at the brake hose. This is the point it exits the tube in tube routing and is then exposed hose until it gets to the rear swingarm.

Lightly tapping the brake hose through the access port would get a click from it as it touches the carbon frame so it seems like that could maybe be the issue. I’ve put a 3” section of the rubber hose that comes with the frame over the brake hose to try and stop the brake hose clicking against the frame. I’m hoping the plastic cover will wedge the rubber hose in place to deaden any clicking from the brake hose.

The plastic cover that goes over the access port on my bike was full of dirt underneath. There’s some dirt visible in the picture but the plastic cover where it goes up against the frame was caked with a lot more. I’ve put some grease on the threads and tightened the bolt down harder than before to see if it will seal it a bit better.:)
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@WR304 I started getting the exact same sound you did after a few rides now, sounds like a clicking noise when pedaling, and I can kind of "feel" it - Sounds like something is tapping the carbon, so I remembered your post here, and I would assume I suffer from the same issue. I opened the swat door, and tapped the hose lightly with my finger, and I could somewhat replicate the click. The part of hose that goes up to the headset that is.

What I am wondering is, did wrapping it in "rubber hose" solve the clicking noise? I have some jagwire housing damper in the garage, so if it worked for you, i'll do the same to mine tomorrow.
 
#1,091 ·
Etney said:
@WR304 I started getting the exact same sound you did after a few rides now, sounds like a clicking noise when pedaling, and I can kind of "feel" it - Sounds like something is tapping the carbon, so I remembered your post here, and I would assume I suffer from the same issue. I opened the swat door, and tapped the hose lightly with my finger, and I could somewhat replicate the click.

What I am wondering is, did wrapping it in "rubber hose" solve the clicking noise? I have some jagwire housing damper in the garage, so if it worked for you, i'll do the same to mine tomorrow.
Click to expand...
If this is the source of the noise, could it be caused by the angle of the hose where it exits the tube-in-tube? Could reducing the length of the hose prevent it from touching the carbon inside that area?
 
#1,092 ·
I've been debating removing the really bold and bright white Roval decals from my Epic's wheels, and finally decided to rip them off since I was seeing rock dings start to tear into them. To my surprise and delight, I discovered that the white decals (more like stickers) are covering dark colored Roval decals. Maybe this has been posted elsewhere, but it was nice discovering that Specialized planted an Easter Egg for me. Even better, the white decals pealed off very easily and left no residue. The black decals are more permanent and durable, and will not peal off without a major effort. I'm currently running my bike Two-Face style, with the drive site black and non-drive white, but no going back to white once removed.

Picture with half white, half dark.
Image
 
#1,093 ·
Istvan Adorjan said:
If this is the source of the noise, could it be caused by the angle of the hose where it exits the tube-in-tube? Could reducing the length of the hose prevent it from touching the carbon inside that area?
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I am not sure, the hose is a bit too long stock, but I have tried "pulling" on it out of the headset, and pushing all of it in. There is about an inch of hose that I can push/pull - But no change in noise really. I most likely have the extra inch of hose after the internal routing housing in the frame, so about from the swat box to the headset. I dont think it moves the rest of the hose that is in the housing down to the bottom bracket when I pull on it.

I will add some hose dampener to the hose that is exposed up to the headset, and also on the small part that is "free" in the bottom bracket area.
 
#1,095 ·
Etney said:
@WR304 I started getting the exact same sound you did after a few rides now, sounds like a clicking noise when pedaling, and I can kind of "feel" it - Sounds like something is tapping the carbon, so I remembered your post here, and I would assume I suffer from the same issue. I opened the swat door, and tapped the hose lightly with my finger, and I could somewhat replicate the click. The part of hose that goes up to the headset that is.

What I am wondering is, did wrapping it in "rubber hose" solve the clicking noise? I have some jagwire housing damper in the garage, so if it worked for you, i'll do the same to mine tomorrow.
Click to expand...
My version 1, with just some rubber hose, slipped straight away and didn’t stay in place.

I redid it with two zip ties:

Image


The hole is quite small. To get the ends of the zip ties round I used a curved pick to hook them out.

I also put some double sided tape on the plastic door to try and stick it to the hose.

Image


I’ve still got a clicking noise but I think this one is drivetrain related now as it’s only when pedalling and changing suspension lockout modes doesn’t affect it.
 
#1,096 ·
WR304 said:
I covered the holes in the rubber topcap of the headset with electrical tape. The exposed holes around the hoses weren’t a great look. It’s not waterproof but should keep dust from above out.:)

View attachment 2092839
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it be better to just put a blob of black silicone there? The kind that dries/cures. Should be easy to pluck off for service.
 
#1,097 ·
Something I wanted to mention about the holes in the rubber headset cover is that when the bike was brand new they were mostly closed up initially. They’ve opened up over the last month and a half of riding. The cables must move slightly in use and that opens the holes in the rubber out wider.

I was talking to my friend who has a Specialized Epic World Cup and he said his headset cover is the same with wide open holes now as well.
 
#1,099 ·
WR304 said:
My version 1, with just some rubber hose, slipped straight away and didn’t stay in place.

I redid it with two zip ties:

View attachment 2093085
Click to expand...
Did you disconnect the brake hose before sliding the foam sleeve on, or did you cut the sleeve open + two zip ties?
 
#1,100 ·
madskatingcow said:
Did you disconnect the brake hose before sliding the foam sleeve on, or did you cut the sleeve open + two zip ties?
Click to expand...
The foam sleeve is cut open along the back to allow it to slide onto the brake hose through the access port.:)

Getting an uncut sleeve onto the brake hose on a fully built bike would mean disconnecting the brake hose which is a lot more hassle.
 
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