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I'm going to offset the price a bit when I sell the Hope rotors. I'm looking for a bit more bite.
I'm on Hope atm - I would have though the numerous small holes would be far less bite? Interested in how you get on. Especially with the rotor noise and feel.
I don't particularly love the subtle rumble the pattern on the Hope's produce under hard braking.

I looked at the euro pricing and the mt5s with levers and pads came within usd30 or 31 euros of the mt7. Hard to look past the mt7 at that price difference imo if only I knew whether the pass clearance would prove problematic
I think so long as you know what to expect it's not a problem. I'm happy to admit I spend more time wrenching on the bike than actually riding it.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Add 26Euro for each MT7 to upgrade the levers to the HC-W as well. Not a fan of the stock MT7 lever, I upgraded to the HC-W but when you crash the tab on the MT7 breaks away and the lever can push forward eventually leading to the return spring failing, not fun if you're not covering the levers and you go to reach for them during a steep fast section... ask me how I know. I have since upgraded the MT7 levers to Oak Componenets, and they are way more sturdy and solid feeling. I should also mention crashing the MT5 lever wont break away the like MT7's do, again ask me how I know...
Does that make the mt5s better or worse in a crash. Not braking away implies the damage is cause to the lever body as opposed to the lever blade?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I'm on Hope atm - I would have though the numerous small holes would be far less bite? Interested in how you get on. Especially with the rotor noise and feel.
I don't particularly love the subtle rumble the pattern on the Hope's produce under hard braking.



I think so long as you know what to expect it's not a problem. I'm happy to admit I spend more time wrenching on the bike than actually riding it.
Lol my neighbours think I have a repair business.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
MT5 + HC-1 levers (if you don't like stock 2-finger levers) + HC-storm rotors is very good combo, is still crash proof (knock knock) for me :)
You can get them at .de web stores for good pricing
Yeah that's what I was planning but I can get the mt7s for $30 more and it's hard to look past.

The constant mentions of rotor rub are keeping me away from the mt7. I had my trail sports and cura 4 running with 0 rub but I can't imagine getting no rub on anything tighter than that.

I've found cura 4 for $200 a set, mt5 plus levers and 4 piece pads for $205, mt7 at $235 and the trail sport for $130.
 
Had the MDR-C 6b 2mm rotors on a pervious mt5/shigura setup with no rub. Currently on a set of cura 2s and will be on these for the foreseeable future. Ridiculously cheap when purchased through bikeinn and similar power to previous shimano xt 4pots and shigura mt5 setup. Mate has the new hopetech v4's with galfer shark rotors and i'd say these are the go to brakes if money is no issue. Killer modulation and power! Would also recommend either the red power or purple emtb galfer pads.
 
Yeah that's what I was planning but I can get the mt7s for $30 more and it's hard to look past.

The constant mentions of rotor rub are keeping me away from the mt7. I had my trail sports and cura 4 running with 0 rub but I can't imagine getting no rub on anything tighter than that.

I've found cura 4 for $200 a set, mt5 plus levers and 4 piece pads for $205, mt7 at $235 and the trail sport for $130.
Then maybe Cura4 would be best for you as you are already familiar with them.
 
Does that make the mt5s better or worse in a crash. Not braking away implies the damage is cause to the lever body as opposed to the lever blade?
The MT5 were better, the lever went back into place and stayed there. I don't know why you need to replace the pads to 4 piece right away, they are the same compound as the MT7 and work just fine, switch to the 4 piece when they wear out.

Seems like you're over thinking things, good luck in your quest.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
The MT5 were better, the lever went back into place and stayed there. I don't know why you need to replace the pads to 4 piece right away, they are the same compound as the MT7 and work just fine, switch to the piece when they wear out.

Seems like you're over thinking things, good luck in your quest.
Thanks for that, I just really like the ease of removing the separate pads that's all. I love that magura has magnetic pads
 
Thanks for that, I just really like the ease of removing the separate pads that's all. I love that magura has magnetic pads
I think you're alluding to this, but for anyone else-- the ease of removing pads with the four-piston depends a bit on the pad style.

With the one-piece pads, you need to remove the wheel (or potentially the caliper depending on the frame), retract the pistons with pad spreader, then wiggle them out from the bottom one at a time. It's a lot of faff, though this style is a little easier to set up without rub.

With the two-piece style, you have to remove two retention screws, but can get them out from the top like the two-piston calipers without unmounting anything.
 
Magura Stom SL.2 are awesome. Worked well for me. It has an audible flutter/vibration noise at high speed braking. Right now I'm on Ashima. They're lighter and looks cooler, but the stopping power is not as great as Magura. By no means are the Ashima's bad, but just not as powerful in comparison. I will switch back to Magura after I wear down the Ashima's.
 
This thread indicates that the four piston calipers are all identical, and the only difference is the lever, or possibly the lever and handlebar body.

I think those little plastic rings are available for sale in the aftermarket.
 
This thread indicates that the four piston calipers are all identical, and the only difference is the lever, or possibly the lever and handlebar body.

I think those little plastic rings are available for sale in the aftermarket.
Nope, I'll go with what Magura says regarding the differences inside the caliper on their tech page...

 
I'm running the MT7 and 203mm MDR-P front and rear and have found the clearance tolerances insanely tight, you'd be lucky to be able to slip a piece of paper either side of the rotor.
First ride took a bit of adjustment, conventional method of centering/aligning the caliper didn't work and i had to do it by eye. This removed a lot of the rubbing that was happening, reducing it down to a very slight rub that has disappeared after a ride or so.

The power difference has been worth the persistence, for me.
 

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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Magura Stom SL.2 are awesome. Worked well for me. It has an audible flutter/vibration noise at high speed braking. Right now I'm on Ashima. They're lighter and looks cooler, but the stopping power is not as great as Magura. By no means are the Ashima's bad, but just not as powerful in comparison. I will switch back to Magura after I wear down the Ashima's.
I found the same drop in power using any thinner rotor options. I tried slx and centerline rotors and both had a less solid powerful feel than the 2mm magura rotors
 
This thread indicates that the four piston calipers are all identical, and the only difference is the lever, or possibly the lever and handlebar body.

I think those little plastic rings are available for sale in the aftermarket.
I didn’t read the thread but I listened to a Downtime podcast with 2 magura employees earlier this year where they specified that MT5 and MT7 have different internals for levers and calipers, they don’t recommend mixing them either (i run shigura so I wouldn’t be afraid to experiment with this). (And i was surprised to learn this too, I assumed calipers were the same). They mention MT5 has more rotor clearance while MT7 has more power. This made me hesitant, as others have mentioned, of trying MT7 since it is already tricky enough to get zero rub with MT5. Although I will probably give MT7 a try some day.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ok, then mt5 with lever of your choice would be imo best. Calipers are the same as mt7 + you get to choose lever for the price of mt7 :)
Biggest advantage of formula over magura imo is the ability to use regular width rotors.
I didn’t read the thread but I listened to a Downtime podcast with 2 magura employees earlier this year where they specified that MT5 and MT7 have different internals for levers and calipers, they don’t recommend mixing them either (i run shigura so I wouldn’t be afraid to experiment with this). (And i was surprised to learn this too, I assumed calipers were the same). They mention MT5 has more rotor clearance while MT7 has more power. This made me hesitant, as others have mentioned, of trying MT7 since it is already tricky enough to get zero rub with MT5. Although I will probably give MT7 a try some day.
Exactly why I'm on the fence. I can get a good deal on the mt7 set bringing them within $30 of the mt5+levers but I can't imagine getting anything tighter than the cura4 or mt5 to not rub. Ironically I can get an even better deal on cura4, $30 less than mt7 and not have to go with thicker rotors. Now I'm stuck deciding.
I'd give them a try if I didn't need three sets. Shifting all my brakes away from Shimano is not cheap. I don't like adjusting to different brakes between bikes and carrying a ton of different pads and oils.
 
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