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Long Travel hardtails (150mm) and coil forks...

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#21 ·
Carl Mega said:
Interesting. I have a Helm MK1 that I've run 160/170 on a hardtail and it is polar opposite to coil feeling. I've tried it all in terms of pressure/neg pressure/no volume adjuster/compression and it is always more progressive and higher in travel than my coil fork. It's a fine fork mind you but certainly on the sharp end of the progressive feel for hard charging. My preference would be a bit more supple and less progression to find full travel more often. With that, I personally would be interested in the Helm coil but as someone else said - the weight differences are legit.
Click to expand...
It is most likely the difference in dampers, I've had 2 Mk1's and now a MK2 set up both coil & air and the new damper is a bit softer and doesn't spike as much when using some HSC. With the air setup I took out the volume adjuster and run fairly high pressure to get a more linear feel.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Image


I've got a 140mm 29er MRP Ribbon Coil on my Pipedream Sirius. I have run this as a 160mm fork before and you can adjust the travel internally without buying any new parts. Feels great on the trail and works well with a hardtail. I run a 140mm Pike on my other hardtail and it works well. So frankly I wouldn't lose sleep about running air or coil. They can both be great choices. If you have a strong desire to run coil go for it. I do like not having to set air pressure on that bike.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Nosdeho said:
I am saving money for a fork to pair with a Kona honzo ESD and I need some advise. I have got it in my head a coil fork on a hard tail with long Travel would be better matched with a fork that doesn't dive into berms when breaking or cause so much chatter that the back wheel loses traction on technical. Considering there is no rear suspension and I am out of my element I could use some help. I am debating between a MRP ribbon or a Cane Creek helm either coil or air.
Thanks ahead to the gurus.
Click to expand...

GET A 36 FACTORY and be done with it :)
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
numbnuts said:
GET A 36 FACTORY and be done with it :)
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I have a fox 36 factory on my wife's bike. She dialed it in pretty good but in downhill switchbacks the fork dives. High impact hits it is good and she has it set a little firm for fast recoil so she feels the chunk. Two problems with the fox 36 is the offset is not where I want it and a coil fork will devour the chunk and keep the rear more stable then an air fork. I might be wrong with the coils stability but this is why I am asking on this forum.
 
#25 ·
You may want to consider adding a DSD Runt to an air fork to simultaneously solve brake dive and small bump sensitivity issues. Picked one up for a 36 Rhythm and it worked fabulously. Later I jumped on a great deal on a 36 performance Elite and it swapped right over. Gives coil like performance without the weight penalty or permanence of a coil conversion.

diazsuspensiondesign.com

runt — diaz suspension design

Insert for mountain bike suspension air forks that provides a coil like feel while maintaining a lower weight, infinite adjust-ability, and lower price.
diazsuspensiondesign.com diazsuspensiondesign.com


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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Shredmonkey said:
You may want to consider adding a DSD Runt to an air fork to simultaneously solve brake dive and small bump sensitivity issues. Picked one up for a 36 Rhythm and it worked fabulously. Later I jumped on a great deal on a 36 performance Elite and it swapped right over. Gives coil like performance without the weight penalty or permanence of a coil conversion.

diazsuspensiondesign.com

runt — diaz suspension design

Insert for mountain bike suspension air forks that provides a coil like feel while maintaining a lower weight, infinite adjust-ability, and lower price.
diazsuspensiondesign.com diazsuspensiondesign.com


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Click to expand...
I was loving it until I saw the maintenance schedule. I. Calling the company anyway to see how the runt works on Rockshox and if my old fox 34 rhythm could be used.
 
#29 ·
Nosdeho said:
I like my forks stupid and easy to maintain. Reba, 34 rhythm. The Fox 36 performance and Pike my wife have I send off. That is why I dread getting a cane creek or an MRP air shock.
Click to expand...
Your 34 rhythm and 36 performance should be the same exact steps to service, ones just slightly smaller stanchions


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#30 ·
Image

Nosdeho said:
I am saving money for a fork to pair with a Kona honzo ESD and I need some advise. I have got it in my head a coil fork on a hard tail with long Travel would be better matched with a fork that doesn't dive into berms when breaking or cause so much chatter that the back wheel loses traction on technical. Considering there is no rear suspension and I am out of my element I could use some help. I am debating between a MRP ribbon or a Cane Creek helm either coil or air.
Thanks ahead to the gurus. View attachment 1961002
Click to expand...
PS, sick bike. She's is probably my favorite.
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
numbnuts said:
View attachment 1964763


PS, sick bike. She's is probably my favorite.
Click to expand...
I can't wait to ride it. I just bought the wheels some profile racing hubs paired with stans century hoops. Still debating the fork but all the other gear is coming off of the bin box of friends. Xo drive train and a some random fixens.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
socalrider77 said:
Your 34 rhythm and 36 performance should be the same exact steps to service, ones just slightly smaller stanchions


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Click to expand...
I just blew out my Reba after a year and a half of racing and grinding I will finish it later this week , my wife doesn't trust my rebuilds yet so I can't fix her fork just her rear shocks. I am not looking forward to sram brakes bleeding I heard it is annoying. I have heard with the 32 mm stanchions fox and Reba use almost the same kit. Just curious. Ps the wiper seal popped up on the dustiest part of the trail noticed it when I put my bike back on my truck sad it was still rolling smooth.
 
#33 ·
Nosdeho said:
I can't wait to ride it. I just bought the wheels some profile racing hubs paired with stans century hoops. Still debating the fork but all the other gear is coming off of the bin box of friends. Xo drive train and a some random fixens.
Click to expand...
Man, I think the ESD just might be my favorite bike of all time.👍👍. I just got a brand new Transition Patrol, which is awesome — but — guess which bike I’ve ridden for the last five rides? 😉

It is even more ridiculous now because I put a 160mm Z1 on it, which, as it turns out, has been a significant upgrade over my 140mm Z2. I was planning to get the 150mm air shaft but I think I’ll leave it after all. I got a 6th-place all-time on Strava today (climbing segment), and it was on snow…

The thing just slays on the downhills.
 
#36 ·
Used to ride every local A line 10 years ago on a SC Chameleon with 160mm 36s.

For the most part dive would be damping related.

Other than when on a dually you'd otherwise have your weight back, squashing the rear shock which on a dually slackens and squats the bike.

A HT can't squat so on transitions etc you will dive the fork and need to pop the front wheel to prevent OTB. On a downhill switch back its a matter of getting your weight back and rolling the bike around you. A bit more so since the bike can't squat.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
DrSRK said:
Used to ride every local A line 10 years ago on a SC Chameleon with 160mm 36s.

For the most part dive would be damping related.

Other than when on a dually you'd otherwise have your weight back, squashing the rear shock which on a dually slackens and squats the bike.

A HT can't squat so on transitions etc you will dive the fork and need to pop the front wheel to prevent OTB. On a downhill switch back its a matter of getting your weight back and rolling the bike around you. A bit more so since the bike can't squat.
Click to expand...
Thanks most of my hardtail experience is in xc and that helps explain downhill switchbacks to a FL boy. I have a Bronson with a fox 34 and I tried to alleviate the dive.
 
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