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Fine Sand/Silt Inside My Chain. How Are You Cleaning Yours?

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11 speed chain chain lube drivetrain kmc
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Crayefish

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I live in an area were all the trails are rather sandy... but it's a fine silt in the mud, rather than your average 'desert sand.' Even a dry gravelly ride kicks up plenty of this silt into my chain.

Now, making a chain 'clean' isn't rocket science, and it's certainly no issue to get the chain looking squeeky clean from the outside. Typically I'll use a chain scrubber after every other ride (or perhaps after a single ride if it's wet out or dirty), and then every five rides or so I'll pop the chain off with the quick link and give it a damn good soak/shake in a tupperware box with solvent, with the chain kept off the bottom, away from the gunk, with some ally mesh.

However, despite having no trouble getting the chain 'clean,' it always still sounds slightly gritty and crunchy due to this damn fine silt/sand that gets inbetween the rollers and pins. As a result, the gunk that comes off in the tupperware box is full of the black steel grinding paste (obvious with a magnet).

Anyone have similar issues with their local geology and has some tips to get the insides of the rollers grit free? Ultrasonic cleaner perhaps? My chains seem to last around 500-1000km, depending on conditions, which isn't inspiring.

For info: I use KMC X11 EL chains, Muc-Off dry lube (mostly), with their wet version when it's really nasty out.
 
#2 ·
I have had to clean chains like you describe and my preferred method was using an oil / solvent like wd-40 heavily. Then using an air compressor on the lower portion of the chain, point blow gun tip directly on the chain and slowly back pedal several rotations. Put card board under chain and blast until grit stops coming out.

Then clean using normal methods to get the remaining solvent out, blast with air again.

Oil it up.
 
#4 ·
Honestly solvents and chain cleaners can often cause more harm than good by wetting the chain and imbedding grit. Better to use a lube like dumonde tech or squirt (wax) which coats the chain and repels dirt. Also saves time because you don't need solvents to clean them.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. I just looked it up... is this the stuff?

www.futurumshop.nl

Squirt Chain Lube 120 ml koop je bij Futurumshop.nl

Squirt Chain Lube 120 ml voor slechts €12.95 Het Squirt Chain Lube smeermiddel zorgt voor een langere levensduur van je ketting en cassette en zorgt voor soepel schakelen. Biologisch afbreekbaar!
www.futurumshop.nl www.futurumshop.nl

To be honest, I always thought wax was for the realm of roadies (which I may join soon 😲) so never even considered it for my XC bike.

Is there a special technique to using/applying/cleaning Squirt, or can I just look up the method for normal chain wax?

I guess once a chain is waxed, one can't just slap some wet lube on, on a wet day? I do have two chains now which I rotate (handy when away with the bike, without cleaning facilities), so would be easy to designate one a dry wax chain... if I can remember which is which!
 
#7 ·
With squirt or dumonde tech it's highly advisable to start with a completely clean & lube-free chain and then use nothing else.

Also with either I just wipe down with a dry rag and then coat the whole chain like with any normal lube. Best to apply the day before for optimal cleanliness.
 
#8 ·
I’m certain to get pushback on my technique for cleaning gritty chains. I remove it and put it in a jar of kerosene, then shake it. I then put the chain in another jar of kerosene and let it soak while agitating it from time to time. I recover the kerosene by filtering through a coffee filter. Wipe down the chainring and derailleur pullies.

Cleaning the chain on the bike takes too much time. I cycle through 2-3 chains and clean them in batches.
 
#9 ·
To add to JB's comments - while I don't completely strip my new chain of all lube... I wipe it down thoroughly with a rag slightly wetted with WD40 to strip the surface of the heavy packing oil, then dry rag and apply Squirt the day before as mentioned.

That thick packing lube seems to stay in the rollers for a while and help the wax seal out contaminants.
 
#10 ·
You can use the chain cleaning devices with the rolling brushes. They are cheap and work great. Park makes a decent one, Cyclone chain scrubber, but other companies too.

As far as squirt, you have to degrease the chain. Cleaning is not enough. PITA but you only have to do it once.
 
#11 ·
dan l said:
I'm certain to get pushback on my technique for cleaning gritty chains. I remove it and put it in a jar of kerosene, then shake it. I then put the chain in another jar of kerosene and let it soak while agitating it from time to time. I recover the kerosene by filtering through a coffee filter. Wipe down the chainring and derailleur pullies.

Cleaning the chain on the bike takes too much time. I cycle through 2-3 chains and clean them in batches.
Click to expand...
I think that's fine but it's too much work for me. Cleaning it on the bike takes me maybe 2 minutes.
 
#13 ·
EatsDirt said:
I have never once degreased a new chain while using Squirt, aside from wiping the surface.
Click to expand...
I've done it both ways and have determined there's good reason that squirt recommends thoroughly cleaning it first and they have detailed instructions on how to do it. It does make a big difference.
 
#14 ·
Best chain cleaning device I ever had was a DIY unit I made using an electric BBQ rotisserie motor that I found at Goodwill for $2.
I mounted an old chainring on the skewer and made a wooden box that suspended the chainring over a narrow bucket that had a metal mesh "floor" to keep the chain from coming near the actual bottom of the bucket.
Dirt would sift through the mesh and accumulate in the bottom of the bucket. The chain never came near that.
I'd turn the rotisserie motor on and drape the chain over the slowly rotating chainring.
The chain would flop back & forth as it piled up atop the mesh, which was beneath a couple inches of oily solvent.
The slowly rotating chainring would drag the bottom run of chain out from under the top run, dragging the chain through the solvent.
I made an upside-down U-shaped brush on a hinge that I could lower atop of the chainring -- this brush scrubbed both sides of the chain as well as the tops of the rollers.
After a couple hours, the filthiest chain came out looking brand new.
After my divorce, I moved into a studio -- didn't have room for my amazing chain cleaning contraption.
Wish I still had that thing.
=sParty
 
#15 · (Edited)
J.B. Weld said:
I've done it both ways and have determined there's good reason that squirt recommends thoroughly cleaning it first and they have detailed instructions on how to do it. It does make a big difference.
Click to expand...
I would buy into that if my chain actually needed more attention in the first month of use then it did after the first month of use... but it's the opposite. For me.

My opinions/processes are based on noise and gritty feeling after my local/frequent dustbowl loop that typically makes chains scream. YMMV.
 
#17 ·
I just use my old grunge brush that I've had for my dirt bike.
It may or may not push some grit to the rollers but not possible not to. I think I can do a better job with the brush than wiping with a rag.
If you really want clean rollers you are going to have to use a lube that helps block dirt ingress and flush it when cleaning. Perhaps use extra lube so as it becomes soaked, the lubrication is also flushing out the rollers.
I've been using Dumonde Yellow for a bottle and it seems to be doing well, switch from many bottles of Squirt. Dumonde does leave the outside filthy, and a ring of grime around the chainring and jockeys. The ring is clear of the mating surfaces of rollers, being pushed away instead of inward.
 
#18 ·
EatsDirt said:
I have never once degreased a new chain while using Squirt, aside from wiping the surface.
Click to expand...
I tried once quick degrease, and had to degrease the chain fully after a few of rides. It picked up a ton of grime as you can expect from the sticky goo that comes on new chains. This grime is hard to get rid of, it does notdisappear with use. Squirt is water based and not solvent, so it does not attach to it well or loosen it like solvent based degreasers.
Takes the point of of squirt that keeps the chain super clean. Squirt recommends it for a reason.
 
#19 ·
CrozCountry said:
I tried once quick degrease, and had to degrease the chain fully after a few of rides. It picked up a ton of grime as you can expect from the sticky goo that comes on new chains. This grime is hard to get rid of, it does notdisappear with use. Squirt is water based and not solvent, so it does not attach to it well or loosen it like solvent based degreasers.
Takes the point of of squirt that keeps the chain super clean. Squirt recommends it for a reason.
Click to expand...
Exact same experience I had. If you want the full benefits of a wax lube, which for me is a clean, low maintenance drivetrain then it's crucial to start with clean & dry chain. Same for dumonde tech too ime.
 
#20 · (Edited)
One thing I didn't mention, and perhaps this makes a difference...before the chain even goes on the bike it gets a WD surface wipe and dry rag. I'll then just use the factory oil for a ride or two. Any mess is minimal and at that point it's prime for a thorough surface clean and lube. It's not like the rollers are purging oil all over the place. Squirt sticks fine. No substantial buildup and not really any more or less cleaning then when the chain is months old.

If you guys actually take the time to completely strip a new chain, dry it out, then flood it with lube... more power to you.

You definitely won't find me using one of those mickey mouse chain cleaning devices on a new chain or otherwise.
 
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