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#4,681 ·
Ripbro said:
More info on the Mezzer
It will be interesting to see what ibis does when the carbon ripley is updated. Most reviewers are liking the slacker HT on the AF but like the snappiness of the carbon. I don't know how much of the acceleration is coming from the frame vs the usually high end build spec.
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They should just copy the adjustable headtube setup from the new Stumpy Evo. It's such a great design. 2.5 degrees of factory adjustment, come on! It's also got 7mm of adjustable bb height and a replaceable rocker link to run true mullet oh, and you can fit a carne asada burrito in the downtube. Might as well toss on some bonus bottle bosses on the bottom of the top tube for tools and a tube. All the cool kids are doing it. Some brands have some catching up to do.
 
#4,683 ·
PNWbike said:
You're exactly right. Everyone's just telling you not to waste dumping more money into Guide T's. Pretty sure everyone would also tell you just to ride the bike for a while and then you can decide what you want to upgrade. This forum is a great way to get info on "what" things people recommend from first hand experience.

You made an excellent choice for getting back into biking. Well done. I did the same thing about 5 years ago after a 10 yr hiatus and what I found is you basically skip multiple generations of bike evolution, so until you find yourself "needing" anything more, everything's already an upgrade.

sfr4dr said:
There's also a lot of people that like the stock Ibis bars (carbon in my case). Also, check the rotation position of your bars. Some people set them pretty weird and you can rotate them. Also, lever position has a large impact. I run mine low so my wrists are straight and not rotated back at all. The new school geo does put more pressure on the hands on flatter trails. I think it works best on trails that are steep up and steep down. For moderate rolling trails, I think the geo from 2 years ago is more comfortable. You may also look at Ergon grips for hand pain. A lot of people like them for that. I like thick soft grips so am on ODI Rogues but have been wanting to try the Ergon GA2 Fats, both are 33mm diameter.
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I know what you mean about sore lower back etc i used to get that when I first got the bike as its the first bike ive had with a mega steep seat tube. Although i have swapped too a 9x5 nukeproof neuron bar has the same backsweep but 5 upsweep from the ibis bar and i dont have any issues now... Either i got used to it or the ibis bar is weird, it did flex heaps too maybe i was compensating for the flex so how who knows! But yes the stock ibis bar is very average to say the least. On another note i tried a 35mm stem and now back on the factory 40 feels perfect. Also i cut my bars to 760mm feels mean as now. Also Im 5"11 165lb
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Thanks for all the info. I missed a bunch of generations!!!! I think I am going to get new bars with a slightly higher rise 20-30mm...part of the learning experience I guess. My hands aren't hurting just my shoulders getting tired.....I do try to ride to the dirt which is about 1 hr or so of riding street each way....so a lot of time on the flat.
I am starting to look at brake upgrades. There are a lot more options now. I figured I might as well go up to a 200mm rotor in back too. I'm not to sure about what I would need. I think its a post mount made for a 160 rotor.....then a 20mm adapter was used to fit the 180mm rotor that is how it came......in order to fit a 200mm rotor I would need a 40mm adapter to go from 160-200. Does that sound accurate? Anyone with experience already done it? I would like to buy all the pieces and have them ready to go before I start the swap.
 
#4,684 ·
Ripbro said:
Posted this in the ripley AF thread but I think it would be of interest to ripmo riders as well. That guy can ride Kendall-Weed DVO Ripley AF
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Feel like Ibis should have spec'd the Ripley AF w DVO bling like our RAFs. But I get it- supply chain shenanigans. Makes me feel even better when some of our 'Mos came with this stuff when we got it.. especially with the Diamond's out of stock everywhere. Except when you are JKW! [emoji28]

It does seem like JKW is liking the DVO stuff a little better than the stock Fox stuff.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#4,685 ·
Ya I think that one of the biggest reasons the ripmo AF was so well received is that it came with top shelf DVO suspension stock. I think they would have done the same with ripley AF but couldn’t due to supply chain issues. They have already sold through the first batch so no big deal. I think the ripley would be a better fit for the majority of my riding but given the small weight penalty for the ripmo AF it’s nice to have a bike I can take on anything.
 
#4,686 · (Edited)
Has anyone done the air spring service on their Diamond? I've done the damper burp/bleed on the other side, and was going to clean/lube up the air spring but then ran into an issue.

Step #13 on the service guide says to use a heat gun to loosen the loctite on the green seal head, and #14 says to spin the seal head out from the cartridge body with pin spanners. Except my seal head is an assembly of the green seal head component that's threaded into a black base, that looks to be threaded into the cartridge body. this is a different assembly than the one shown in the service procedure.
Before using the heat gun, no part of that seal head would turn, as should be the case. After the head gun, it started to spin, but wouldn't thread out. I noticed that the seal head stays fixed to the black base, and the base turns easily now,
but it doesn't thread out. I've spun it about 15 times and it's not threading in or out, so I'm at a loss as to why it's staying put. Contacting DVO is obviously the next step, but I figured I'd see if anyone's run into this yet, as I doubt they'll answer any tech questions till Monday.

1914911


1914910
 
#4,688 · (Edited)
Ripbro said:
Check this video out. You need to spin the collar while keeping the piston from spinning using a pin spinner. The boost model air spring are different from non boost and they haven't provided the boost PDF yet.

Diamond Boost Air Spring access
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Dude, thank you! I didn't think to look at the Travel-Change guide. Watching now...

Update: Got everything disassembled, with help from the link above. As per the video, I definitely needed to use a pin spanner to hold the green seal head in place while unscrewing the black base (as opposed to just adding air and unscrewing). As they said in the video, it would seem that the factory assembles the black part really tight, which makes the green seal head want to spin with it. Probably a much easier process the second time around, like everything in life.
 
#4,689 ·
Ripbro said:
Ya I think that one of the biggest reasons the ripmo AF was so well received is that it came with top shelf DVO suspension stock. I think they would have done the same with ripley AF but couldn't due to supply chain issues. They have already sold through the first batch so no big deal. I think the ripley would be a better fit for the majority of my riding but given the small weight penalty for the ripmo AF it's nice to have a bike I can take on anything.
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Ibis says it was because DVO doesn't offer an in-line style shock.
 
#4,691 ·
threw a leg over the new Ripley AF today at shop - I think w the Topaz like JKW threw on it could be interesting but it was clearly 120mm banging straight into the square edge curbs... has potential, but it helped solidify that I won't be moving away from the Mo for it... I would like to proper demo it, but that aint happening as I see it - the one pedaled around has a wait list already
 
#4,692 ·
Well, fcuk. Don't worry, bike is ok.

Need to conquer lippy jumps. The ones with a kicker ramp up towards the end. Anybody got any tips? I've seen videos and advise saying "bunny hop" off the ledge to "don't bunny hop, let speed carry you."

Well I went with the latter today. To be fair, maybe the speed wasn't enough as I hesitated for a sec and ate OTB sh!t.

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#4,694 ·
TanMan said:
Well, fcuk. Don't worry, bike is ok.

Need to conquer lippy jumps. The ones with a kicker ramp up towards the end. Anybody got any tips? I've seen videos and advise saying "bunny hop" off the ledge to "don't bunny hop, let speed carry you."

Well I went with the latter today. To be fair, maybe the speed wasn't enough as I hesitated for a sec and ate OTB sh!t.

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I
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Don't do the weight transfer too early. You need to pull back on the bars and load the pedals a little longer for kickers more so than normal ramps. I'm no authority on jumping but it works for me when hitting kickers and also logs across the track that I jump. They sort of do the same thing kicking the back up in the air trying to throw you over the bars. I'm assuming that's what happened.
Now what you need to remember is that every cloud has a silver lining. This one is that you didn't do it on a brand new V2. I assume. Hope you heal quickly
 
#4,695 ·
OzIbis said:
Don't do the weight transfer too early. You need to pull back on the bars and load the pedals a little longer for kickers more so than normal ramps. I'm no authority on jumping but it works for me when hitting kickers and also logs across the track that I jump. They sort of do the same thing kicking the back up in the air trying to throw you over the bars. I'm assuming that's what happened.
Now what you need to remember is that every cloud has a silver lining. This one is that you didn't do it on a brand new V2. I assume. Hope you heal quickly
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Thanks Oz. You assumed right, the rear kicked up more so than the front and I went Superman. The one time I chose not to wear knee pads too! It was a bad day and I should have stopped while I was ahead. It's just that discovering a trail section with purpose built jump ramps became too fun to pass up and by the time I decided to hit that lippy jump, I was tired and not committed.

Yup thankfully the idiocy didn't happen on the V2 because it's still not here yet. Having said that, I did a damage assessment on the AF and except for the dropper lever being pushed out of its normal alignment on the bars (this is why we don't overtighten bits on the handlebar boys) , some small dirt scuff on the grip ends, the bike shook off the spill much better than me! Stout little bastard.

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#4,696 ·
TanMan said:
Well, fcuk. Don't worry, bike is ok.

Need to conquer lippy jumps. The ones with a kicker ramp up towards the end. Anybody got any tips? I've seen videos and advise saying "bunny hop" off the ledge to "don't bunny hop, let speed carry you."

Well I went with the latter today. To be fair, maybe the speed wasn't enough as I hesitated for a sec and ate OTB sh!t.

Image


I
Image


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Dang TanMan! That sucks! I still need to learn how to jump with more skill than I had when I was a kid. I think that will be my goal this spring. Maybe I'll take some classes to get started with the proper fundamentals. I hope you heal up quickly without too much downtime man. Glad the bike looks okay. What's the prognosis for the wrist?
 
#4,697 ·
RyderRider said:
Dang TanMan! That sucks! I still need to learn how to jump with more skill than I had when I was a kid. I think that will be my goal this spring. Maybe I'll take some classes to get started with the proper fundamentals. I hope you heal up quickly without too much downtime man. Glad the bike looks okay. What's the prognosis for the wrist?
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You and me both but due to my hopeless skills, I think I need more individualized attention then what those group clinics can offer. If anyone have any good coach recommendations, please share! Better to spend $$ on improving skills than hospital bills at our age!

I think I just have a bad sprain. Knee, shin and elbow are pretty scrapped and bruised too but should be able to walk off next couple days. Wrist was hurt from before but this incident made it worse. I'll have to see a doc this week.

Thanks for all the well wishes folks.

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#4,698 ·
TanMan said:
Thanks Oz. You assumed right, the rear kicked up more so than the front and I went Superman. The one time I chose not to wear knee pads too! It was a bad day and I should have stopped while I was ahead. It's just that discovering a trail section with purpose built jump ramps became too fun to pass up and by the time I decided to hit that lippy jump, I was tired and not committed.

Yup thankfully the idiocy didn't happen on the V2 because it's still not here yet. Having said that, I did a damage assessment on the AF and except for the dropper lever being pushed out of its normal alignment on the bars (this is why we don't overtighten bits on the handlebar boys) , some small dirt scuff on the grip ends, the bike shook off the spill much better than me! Stout little bastard.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Also getting all techy again. Be aware of how quick you are running your rebound on your shock. If you are running it quite fast to deal with chunky sections you need to allow for it a little with delayed weight transfer. If you like your rebound a tad slower you won't get as much kick from the rear on lips. If you are familiar with jumping a Moto on a lippy jump you hold the throttle a little longer off the top of the lip because the inertia of the back wheel spinning holds the rear end down. You don't have that option on an MTB, it's probably not real comfortable pedalling flat out mid air to try and use rear wheel inertia I imagine, so you need to hold your weight back in the pumping or rowing position a tad longer to counteract the kick.
 
#4,699 ·
OzIbis said:
Also getting all techy again. Be aware of how quick you are running your rebound on your shock. If you are running it quite fast to deal with chunky sections you need to allow for it a little with delayed weight transfer. If you like your rebound a tad slower you won't get as much kick from the rear on lips. If you are familiar with jumping a Moto on a lippy jump you hold the throttle a little longer off the top of the lip because the inertia of the back wheel spinning holds the rear end down. You don't have that option on an MTB, it's probably not real comfortable pedalling flat out mid air to try and use rear wheel inertia I imagine, so you need to hold your weight back in the pumping or rowing position a tad longer to counteract the kick.
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Thanks for the tip. My rebound is set faster but not too much. It really is down to bad technique and not being committed. The ego hurts more than the body. [emoji23]

Will keep weight in back little longer on next try. Light hands, heavy feet.

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#4,700 ·
TanMan said:
You and me both but due to my hopeless skills, I think I need more individualized attention then what those group clinics can offer. If anyone have any good coach recommendations, please share! Better to spend $$ on improving skills than hospital bills at our age!

I think I just have a bad sprain. Knee, shin and elbow are pretty scrapped and bruised too but should be able to walk off next couple days. Wrist was hurt from before but this incident made it worse. I'll have to see a doc this week.

Thanks for all the well wishes folks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Were you wearing knee pads? I worked on a few drop progressions today. I added in a few runs at a jump line were I got my wheels off the ground a bit, not much air. It looks like on the drops I used about 90+% of my fork travel. Should I be adding some air pressure up front? I've always been more of a set and forget kind of guy, but maybe I should tinker a bit.
 
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