The One to rule them all has arrived. This is the most well rounded bike Yeti has ever developed so let's start this discussion with everything SB130 related.
Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build
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skinnybex
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Eh, I just buy build kits to make things easier. And I can sell my old bike complete, which is easier than selling just a frame most of the time. The closest Yeti dealer to me is 3 hours away. So I just order online. Even though they 'build and tune' the bikes, I still do a once over to make sure everything is torqued to spec and brakes are bled properly. Often times, I have to completely re-tune the derailleurs and retorque bolts because it's too tight or too loose. I just wish they'd assemble and send it out to me. I can do the job of their 'bike builders' at home properly.
The T1 Turq has everything I want, really. Shimano 12S XT. I really, really wanna try out the Shimano 12S. Only changes I'm going to make are the saddle, 203 rotors front and rear, and carbon wheels and tougher tires, which I already have.. The Fit4 is a pretty good fork. But if it comes with the newly updated one, it'd be nice to see if I can tell any difference.
Joined
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300 Posts
Looking to replace my QR rear axle with non-QR
Having a little trouble figuring out what I need. The axle that's in it is 172mm. Can't find that length in non-QR
What I think will work:
12 x 148 E-thru 170mm
Am I right?
Looking at the Maxle Stealth from SRAM or similar.
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Having a little trouble figuring out what I need. The axle that's in it is 172mm. Can't find that length in non-QR
What I think will work:
12 x 148 E-thru 170mm
Am I right?
Looking at the Maxle Stealth from SRAM or similar.
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
Joined
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287 Posts
The one you're looking for called Shimano E-Thru 148x12mm
There's a very light one made by Carbon-Ti Brand. It's only 32g.
Rear Axles Bike E-Thru
That's what I currently have on my SB100 and I just moved it from my SB100 to my new SB130 frame.
I purchased mine from Fair Wheel Bikes website:
https://fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti-x-lock-rear-thru-axle/
Cheers!
Joined
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287 Posts
SB130 T1 was the one I had as a demo from my LBS. Had a chance get on 2 rides on it with a total of 38 miles and 5,000 elev.
In general I'm not a huge fan of Shimano products, but not a hater either. And the T1 kit comes with XT 4 piston brakes and XT 1-12 Drivetrain. But still, I really enjoyed the bike and Shimano stuff did not bother. On my last 3 bikes I've installed SRAM Eagle drivetrain and I find it a bit smoother on the shifting and a bit more precise compared to Shimano 1x12. But there's one significant advantage on Shimano 1x12 drivetrain that I've noticed, is that you can still shift pretty easy under heavy load of pedaling and that's not something that Eagle can do.
Large frame that I demoed came at 30 lbs before pedals, but the bike climbed maybe 10% slower than my 24 lbs SB100 and descending on it was just an enormous FUN compared to my SB100. So, SO SO MUCH Confidence Inspiring !!!
Fox 36 Fit4 that came on the 2020 SB130 Demo was phenomenal with zero complains, but my LBS recomened me to go with Grip2 for the same price.
The biggest thing I loved about this bike is how comfortable and not exhausting at all it was on long fire road climbs and 10+ min descends.
I'm going to throw 34mm internal NEXTIE Carbon wheels with i9 Hydra hubs on mine as well. 180mm Front and Rear SRAM Centerline X rotors should be plenty for me, since I'm about 185lbs with all of my gear and I'll be installing SRAM Code RSC brakes on mine. Will be rolling on Maxxis Dissectors 29x2.4 Front and Rear as well. Ones I tried these tires I could confedntly say "Bye, Bye DHR II". Dissector rolls faster than DHR II, Grip, Break and Corner better than DHR II.
I strongly beleive that the Assegai will replace the DHF on all Enduro bikes and some trail bikes. When the Dissector will replace the DHR II and Aggressor on Trail and Enduro bikes.
Also I recall that JensonUSA and Fanatik Bikes fully assemble the bikes and they ship it with just the front wheel not attached. But you should double check that.
Ether way T1 is an awesome kit and SB130 phenomenal bike !!! So you can't go wrong.
Cheers
Joined
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1,884 Posts
This is exactly the code on the shock I have DL2Q. IS that bad or good?You should also ask for the 4 digit code, because the compression/rebound stack might be different. So the same settings might not give the same results
Ex: DL2Q >> https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&ref=findbycode
2018 Factory Series FLOAT X2
2018, FLOAT X2, F-S, K, 2pos-Adj, Ibis, Ripmo, 210, 55, 0.3 Spacer x2, CM, Neutral, STD Logo
It's good [emoji28]
3rd day in Finale Ligure with the SB130, the bike is coping great no matter the track. For those who know, you could come with your DH bike and be happy ... very fast, loose, super rocky, jumps, compressions! Even «DH men» feels great ... You gotta love this "trail" bike hahaha [emoji6]
![Image]()
Thanks for the insight! I much prefer Shimano over SRAM. I do have the XO1 Race kit on my SB100 I don't have any real complains. I just dislike that the feel of the upshift lever gets lighter and lighter as you go down the cassette, while Shimano feels the same all the time. As far as brakes, I'll always have 4 pistons from now on. I put Guide Ultimates on my SB100 and put 180/180 rotors and that's been perfect for it. I'm excited to try out the new generation XT brakes, but if it's not up to snuff, I'll replace the calipers with Saints, which is something people have been doing for a long time. $200+ for 2 Saint calipers and banjo bolts is a lot cheaper than Code RSCs front and rear. I've got a set of Crank Bros Synthesis E11s with Hydra hubs going on the SB130. Tires will be WTB Verdict front, and WTB Judge rear. Not the lightest of tires, but I know they grip amazingly and are nearly indestructible.
Riding my SB100 always puts a smile on my face. It just 'feels' like a special bike. I'm really hoping that the SB130 feels the same. And I feel that the T1 Turq build represents the best value for Yeti builds, as they don't skimp on parts spec. You get a full XT groupset and brakes. I mean, Yetis aren't exactly teeming with value, but Turq builds are better this year. What I dislike about this year's builds are the lower spec wheelsets and the move to 170mm cranks. The XM1501s are phenomenal wheels. I have a set of E1700s and M1700s myself, and they are great wheels. But XM1501s are lighter and stronger. I prefer longer cranks due to the extra leverage they provide. Not that big of a deal. But the BBs are so low that I see why Yeti chose to go with shorter cranks.
Can't wait to get my bike. I'm hoping to get it by Friday at the earliest.
Quick ride report and question/advice needed....apologies for a long post.
I rode Captain Ahab in Moab for the first time on the SB130 today. I’ve ridden this trail 25 plus times over the years on a Yeti 95c, Yeti SB5, Gen 3 Nomad, and most recently a SB 5.5. Was really excited to see how the 130 stacked up.
First off...I just swapped my stock 50mm stem that came on a 2020 T1 build for a 40mm stem and I really prefer the shorter stem. This was the standard length on the original builds and I feel that Yeti truly designed the bike around this stem length.
Climbing...the 130 climbs better than any other bike I’ve owned and motored right up the ledges and chunk of Ahab. Low bb takes some timing, but I’m adjusting. I’m not willing to go to 170mm cranks....I’ve tried and they hurt my knees and I prefer the leverage with 175mm.
Descending...the bike did great, but not the best I’ve ridden on this trail. I have to disagree that this bike does everything better than the Yeti 5.5. My 5.5 had a little bit more smash and go personality on the ledges, drops, and steep slabs of Ahab. The 130 did fine, but I had to be a little more selective in picking lines and it wasn’t quite the autopilot feeling my 5.5 had. It wasn’t huge, but maybe a roughly 10% decrease in downhill confidence. What really surprised me was the feeling in steep slabs and successive steep ledge drops...the 130 is pretty damn slack, but I still felt just a bit too far over the front. I know the new forward-centric geo helps to weight the front-end better, but there is a time and place where that can feel a little sketch. This front-planted geo and steep seat tube also makes this bike a little harder to pop the front end up. Manuels off ledges take more work and timing...Anyone else having more difficulty popping wheelies on large wheelbase and steep seat tubed bikes?
My 5.5 had offset bushings, 160 mm fork and X2 in the rear. My 130 is the stock 150mm fork and dpx2 130mm.
So, my question. Can I get the 130 to have that same unflappable feeling on fast chunky trails like Ahab? I’m tossing around a few scenarios:
1) Maybe I need to spend more time tuning the front end to provide more support and keep me higher in travel....countering that too far forward feeling on steeps.
2) Maybe I need to “lunch ride” the bike and go to 160mm front to really compare to my old 5.5 and unlock a more aggressive downhill demeanor. Maybe run a coil shock.
3) Maybe it’s just a 130mm trail bike through and through. You can only change the character of a bike like this so much. If I really want that total smasher feel, I should look to a bigger bike.
Thoughts or advise would be awesome. All in all...combining up and down, the bike is killer. Just missing a little of that extra confidence on the steeper tracks.
I rode Captain Ahab in Moab for the first time on the SB130 today. I’ve ridden this trail 25 plus times over the years on a Yeti 95c, Yeti SB5, Gen 3 Nomad, and most recently a SB 5.5. Was really excited to see how the 130 stacked up.
First off...I just swapped my stock 50mm stem that came on a 2020 T1 build for a 40mm stem and I really prefer the shorter stem. This was the standard length on the original builds and I feel that Yeti truly designed the bike around this stem length.
Climbing...the 130 climbs better than any other bike I’ve owned and motored right up the ledges and chunk of Ahab. Low bb takes some timing, but I’m adjusting. I’m not willing to go to 170mm cranks....I’ve tried and they hurt my knees and I prefer the leverage with 175mm.
Descending...the bike did great, but not the best I’ve ridden on this trail. I have to disagree that this bike does everything better than the Yeti 5.5. My 5.5 had a little bit more smash and go personality on the ledges, drops, and steep slabs of Ahab. The 130 did fine, but I had to be a little more selective in picking lines and it wasn’t quite the autopilot feeling my 5.5 had. It wasn’t huge, but maybe a roughly 10% decrease in downhill confidence. What really surprised me was the feeling in steep slabs and successive steep ledge drops...the 130 is pretty damn slack, but I still felt just a bit too far over the front. I know the new forward-centric geo helps to weight the front-end better, but there is a time and place where that can feel a little sketch. This front-planted geo and steep seat tube also makes this bike a little harder to pop the front end up. Manuels off ledges take more work and timing...Anyone else having more difficulty popping wheelies on large wheelbase and steep seat tubed bikes?
My 5.5 had offset bushings, 160 mm fork and X2 in the rear. My 130 is the stock 150mm fork and dpx2 130mm.
So, my question. Can I get the 130 to have that same unflappable feeling on fast chunky trails like Ahab? I’m tossing around a few scenarios:
1) Maybe I need to spend more time tuning the front end to provide more support and keep me higher in travel....countering that too far forward feeling on steeps.
2) Maybe I need to “lunch ride” the bike and go to 160mm front to really compare to my old 5.5 and unlock a more aggressive downhill demeanor. Maybe run a coil shock.
3) Maybe it’s just a 130mm trail bike through and through. You can only change the character of a bike like this so much. If I really want that total smasher feel, I should look to a bigger bike.
Thoughts or advise would be awesome. All in all...combining up and down, the bike is killer. Just missing a little of that extra confidence on the steeper tracks.
Joined
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2,782 Posts
I have a 160 front with push coils and cushcore. That wouldve been perfect for the trail that youre riding
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Bumping the fork to 160 and swapping the shock for a more capable one will definitely help you bring the 5.5 feel/confidence back.
You can also play with spacers under the stem.
1. You might be right about diving into your fork travel on descents, so a little more LSC might help.
2. Setting the fork at 160 will be a noticeable improvement for steeps/ You can also clip the travel spacer out of the rear shock to add 6-7mm more travel.
3. It is and it isn't. The geo is more on the enduro side of things. It feels more like it's half way between that and trail for me. Just really as much of a "one bike" as it comes. It's definitely not the all out plow bike. I've also had a 5.5. What I find is that if my body position is off on the sb130, I can definitely feel it. Heels down and bars weighted, it can move pretty well. If your top priority is only all out speed though and not all around ability, I'd look for a bigger bike.
I'm going to extend my fork to 160mm and then plan on going with an X2 to try it out.
Sounds like bumping to 160 up front, and the extra 7mm in the rear, might be the ticket.
I've been a 2 bike guy for years and thought the SB130 might be the one bike solution.
Looks like I'm drifting back to 2 bikes as the ideal setup. I ride a real diverse mix of trails. From Moab, Sedona, and some bike park laps to after work trails in Durango that are pretty fast, smooth hardpack (Phils World, 18 Rd Fruita, etc.).
Now the dilemma...
Do I build up the 130 to be a short(er) travel Enduro build and then get a truly short travel (100 mm) lightweight trail bike for smoother undulating trails (SB 100 or Blur LT with a Fox 34 120mm step cast fork)
or...
Trim down the SB 130 to the lighter side (really just leave at 150mm fork, 130mm rear, run lighter rubber and super light wheelset) and then get a proper 160/170mm big bike....Megatower, etc.
First world problems....
I've been a 2 bike guy for years and thought the SB130 might be the one bike solution.
Looks like I'm drifting back to 2 bikes as the ideal setup. I ride a real diverse mix of trails. From Moab, Sedona, and some bike park laps to after work trails in Durango that are pretty fast, smooth hardpack (Phils World, 18 Rd Fruita, etc.).
Now the dilemma...
Do I build up the 130 to be a short(er) travel Enduro build and then get a truly short travel (100 mm) lightweight trail bike for smoother undulating trails (SB 100 or Blur LT with a Fox 34 120mm step cast fork)
or...
Trim down the SB 130 to the lighter side (really just leave at 150mm fork, 130mm rear, run lighter rubber and super light wheelset) and then get a proper 160/170mm big bike....Megatower, etc.
First world problems....
The extra 7mm won't change a thing, changing the rear shock will.
The X2 is great, but the Öhlins TTX and the CaneCreek DB are also very good air shock options.
Personally, I find the CaneCreek DB Coil inline + SLS spring to tick all the boxes and to be a perfect match.
The big plus for a lot of people is that you don’t have to fiddle with the settings because the base settings (factory) are the best for the SB130 (believe me I've tried so many configurations for months on so many type of terrains). In short, stick this shock to your bike and go ride with the best settings possible without any hassle.
FYI: I'm 72kg, that translates to about 78/80 ready to ride and the 400lbs spring feels super super good everywhere. I had a 450lbs before and it was too firm (kinda new that from the get go).
Either way, it will make your bike a lot more capable everywhere.
Personally, I find the CaneCreek DB Coil inline + SLS spring to tick all the boxes and to be a perfect match.
The big plus for a lot of people is that you don’t have to fiddle with the settings because the base settings (factory) are the best for the SB130 (believe me I've tried so many configurations for months on so many type of terrains). In short, stick this shock to your bike and go ride with the best settings possible without any hassle.
FYI: I'm 72kg, that translates to about 78/80 ready to ride and the 400lbs spring feels super super good everywhere. I had a 450lbs before and it was too firm (kinda new that from the get go).
Either way, it will make your bike a lot more capable everywhere.
Get rid of the 130 and buy a sb150 and have a second set of lighter wheels with lighter tires (like specialized grid casing) for less aggressive trail riding. I have both bikes and could live without my 130 but wouldn't give up my 150. I've even thought of getting rid of the 130...just not there yet. Personally I think the 130 is very solidly in the trail category and the 150 is much better all around, from trail to park. The idea of a 100mm bike makes no sense to me because 130mm bikes sacrifice minimal speed but a 100mm in a place like Durango....no thanks.
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