Just curious how many people have had issues with this system and on what forks the issues have shown up? I know the Trek TF uses this remote with various forks/shocks, both Fox and RS, and that it also comes on the 2019 Blur TR with Fox fork and shock. The Blur I am picking up had to have the grip replaced while taking it for a ride around the shop, it wouldn't stay open. After it was replaced and on a demo ride it worked fine. I also saw a review of the same bike on YouTube and it had an issue with the stock TwistLoc and had been replaced with a standard remote. Just curious if there have been many issues or just a few from those in the wild?
SRAM TwistLoc Lockout Remote Issues
AF2NR
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22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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Just curious how many people have had issues with this system and on what forks the issues have shown up? I know the Trek TF uses this remote with various forks/shocks, both Fox and RS, and that it also comes on the 2019 Blur TR with Fox fork and shock. The Blur I am picking up had to have the grip replaced while taking it for a ride around the shop, it wouldn't stay open. After it was replaced and on a demo ride it worked fine. I also saw a review of the same bike on YouTube and it had an issue with the stock TwistLoc and had been replaced with a standard remote. Just curious if there have been many issues or just a few from those in the wild?
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following...in theory this seems like a pretty slick way to lock out a fork or both.
I'm a dedicated grip shift fan and have the push button thumb actuated lockout on two bikes, it's nice but get's "sticky" when cold and needs a bleed every so often.
I'm a dedicated grip shift fan and have the push button thumb actuated lockout on two bikes, it's nice but get's "sticky" when cold and needs a bleed every so often.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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The one that went out on the Blur TR was just the opposite of "sticky". The grip would turn but it would not engage and therefore was locked out. I'm not quite sure if I like or not yet. During the actual demo I unknowingly bumped the thumb button and locked out the fork/shock. Only happened once and it was on relatively tame trails. I honestly think I would prefer not to have the lockout at all but not at the cost involved in reversing the system...
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Is the system "twist" to lockout and push button to unlock or can it be set up either way. Seems like twist to lock is the most intuitive IE going uphill your pulling in and locking.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
On the Blur it is controlling Fox fork/shock and it is actually push to lock and twist to unlock. I've heard that you can send them back to Fox to have them reversed but that is costly and if you remove the remote it leaves the system locked as well. It cleans up the bar, but I'd rather have the option of using the remote or removing it and be in the open position. It at least cleans up the bars compared to the standard Fox remote.
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The twistloc just pulls cable. The twist pulls cable, the button releases it. So if your fork/shock lock when pulling cable then it is twist to lock. If your fork/shock unlock when pulling cable, then it is twist to unlock.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
Well I have now had two of these remotes fail on my Blur TR... RS says there was a period where there were QC/manufacturing issues, they also said this on the first one that was replaced. I would rather have this bike with manual remotes than the system as it is set up. The shop I went to this time said they have had multiple issues with the remote on various bikes.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
One of the guys with the Blur TR on here actually has done this. He replaced the SRAM grips with ESI Chunky's I believe, and cut the left one to fit with the lockout.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
This was the issue I had with my initial TwistLoc that failed in the parking lot before I could even demo it, SRAM said there was a bad batch and sent a replacement. The second one lasted a couple of weeks and SRAM's response was the same as the first time. I'm now awaiting the parts to use the Fox lockout remote and a different dropper/remote. While I'm waiting I'm running my bike in the open position by rigging the suspension with a cable to stay open, and the TwistLoc has been removed for good. Either the new attempt will work or the shop said they will send the shock back in and get a new top cap for the fork so I can run them manual.
How did you rig it. I can only ride mine in locked out mode until I get it fixed
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22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
I wish I could tell you but the shop did it actually. I want to say they just used some cable/wire to pull them into the open position. They did this when the first one failed and I saw a little of what they did but didn't pay that much attention, the second time I was changing tires while he did it so I didn't see much.
I'm sort of stuck now on what I'd really like? While initially I didn't think I'd use the lockout much I did find myself using it. However, now I haven't really found myself missing it so far with having it opened for a couple weeks.
My shop/SC/Fox got me the remote to try. RS also offered to send another TwistLoc but if they can't replace a bad with a good then I'm not going that route again...
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To rig suspension open
Normally there is gear cable outer running between the remote and the suspension. Where the OUTER would usually enter the fork/shock insert a gear INNER cable directly. The head of the gear inner that normally sits in the remote, will sit in the stop that the outer usually stops against.
Run the gear inner through the compression/lockout dial as it normally would.
Then manually hold the dial so your suspension is open and cinch down the cable anchor bolt on the cable.
Trim inner cable and crimp a cable end onto it.
Ride
Normally there is gear cable outer running between the remote and the suspension. Where the OUTER would usually enter the fork/shock insert a gear INNER cable directly. The head of the gear inner that normally sits in the remote, will sit in the stop that the outer usually stops against.
Run the gear inner through the compression/lockout dial as it normally would.
Then manually hold the dial so your suspension is open and cinch down the cable anchor bolt on the cable.
Trim inner cable and crimp a cable end onto it.
Ride
This was simple and worked perfectly thank you!!!
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
I'm having the same problem. It takes very little force to the TwistLoc to revert to locked. I'm essentially riding a rigid bike since it won't stay unlocked.
22 Specialized Kenevo SL, i9 mullet wheels, GX AXS, and touchpoint changes.
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359 Posts
It seems most people have pretty much removed the TwistLoc to alleviate the issues. I know myself and others are running the Fox remote now, there is more info and pics in the Santa Cruz Blur TR thread in the SC forums.
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