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2019 Fox 36 Grip2

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#242 ·
evildos said:
Do brand new forks still lack lubrification like in the old times ?
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Absolutely not. The problem is that they have too much now. This can do a couple of things. When you open it up, the position can have an inordinate amount of slick honey around the piston which can use up space like a volume spacer. Not cool. Also if you get too much above the spring, it can block the little dimple in the stantion that allows air to equalize between both the positive and the negative. The end result is that both of those issues can cause an unnecessarily harsh fork. When I pulled mine apart upon receiving it, it wasnt all that bad but others in the past have seen it pretty bad.
 
#244 ·
svinyard said:
Absolutely not. The problem is that they have too much now. This can do a couple of things. When you open it up, the position can have an inordinate amount of slick honey around the piston which can use up space like a volume spacer. Not cool. Also if you get too much above the spring, it can block the little dimple in the stantion that allows air to equalize between both the positive and the negative. The end result is that both of those issues can cause an unnecessarily harsh fork. When I pulled mine apart upon receiving it, it wasnt all that bad but others in the past have seen it pretty bad.
Click to expand...
I changed my 34 oil a few weeks ago and it was amazing...yes, they actually used oil at the factory.

I think a few forks/shocks use so little oil that even if they do put it in, it doesn't do much more than "coat" the inside and when you go to "drain" it, nothing really comes out.
 
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#249 ·
Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm struggling to see the point of this "fix".

Though it flies in the face of my too many to admit decades of dirt bike and mtb suspension tuning, I'm much more likely to simply count clicks from fully open than to start installing washers.

YMMV
 
#250 ·
kosmo said:
Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm struggling to see the point of this "fix".

Though it flies in the face of my too many to admit decades of dirt bike and mtb suspension tuning, I'm much more likely to simply count clicks from fully open than to start installing washers.

YMMV
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I think there is a chance that the "real clicks" are variably within the middle of the full 32. Hence Fox's documentation trying to get people to go until they feel 2nm+ of pressure and start from closed. Too much ambiguity, I think a number of people have different click "start and stop" points too. If this fixes that, I'm happy to have it and expected it earlier.
 
#251 · (Edited)
svinyard said:
I think there is a chance that the "real clicks" are variably within the middle of the full 32. Hence Fox's documentation trying to get people to go until they feel 2nm+ of pressure and start from closed. Too much ambiguity, I think a number of people have different click "start and stop" points too. If this fixes that, I'm happy to have it and expected it earlier.
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I have just had my 36 Grip 2 at the suspension guys I use here in NZ. A couple of things they found was too much grease like it had just been dunked in a bucket of grease and the seals were bone dry.

Also they have had several sets of forks on their shock dyno to determine what the damper is doing so they can tune the suspension properly. They found on all the forks with 32 clicks of HSC that the adjustment was 16 clicks from fully closed, not from open. The extra clicks to fully open did nothing as shown on their dyno.
 
#252 ·
This adjuster should always be set from full closed.
Engineers are stubborn idiots some times. Too full of themselves to admit a wrong or see that they are wrong.
Go ahead and set it how you like. But anyone with any actual understanding of the suspension and how it works technically will be setting the adjuster from full closed. This is the case with most adjusters on dampers. But there are a few exceptions. This is not one of those exceptions.

Mopars post with what his suspension shop has found is just one more piece of evidence.

The amount of people on here that think they know about dampers without having any knowledge is hilarious. Almost as bad as the linkage and geometry experts.....
 
#254 ·
Mopar said:
I have just had my 36 Grip 2 at the suspension guys I use here in NZ. A couple of things they found was too much grease like it had just been dunked in a bucket of grease and the seals were bone dry.

Also they have had several sets of forks on their shock dyno to determine what the damper is doing so they can tune the suspension properly. They found on all the forks with 32 clicks of HSC that the adjustment was 16 clicks from fully closed, not from open. The extra clicks to fully open did nothing as shown on their dyno.
Click to expand...
Cool to get some real data. Does your fork have a point when moving to closed where it gets harder to turn? Mine does, according to fox that is where it's truly closed but its hard to say for sure and it sounds like your guy found it "completely" closed which would indicate that they turned it passed that 'hard to turn point'. Is there an easy way to fix the dry seals? I've torn mine down a couple of times. It's greased and oiled appropriately but I didn't do anything with the seals.
 
#255 ·
I find it hard to believe anyone is running any HSC on this fork. At 205 lbs w/o gear, I've been running about 70 psi to get 28-30% sag, full open HSC, and 0-4 LSC depending on the trail.


Everytime I try adding HSC the fork just seems to get harsh. Too much grease? I have yet to pull it apart and look inside. But with 0 HSC, I find it does just fine on trails and limited bike park. Maybe at superhuman speeds the HSC is useful.
 
#256 ·
Nevada 29er said:
I find it hard to believe anyone is running any HSC on this fork. At 205 lbs w/o gear, I've been running about 70 psi to get 28-30% sag, full open HSC, and 0-4 LSC depending on the trail.

Everytime I try adding HSC the fork just seems to get harsh. Too much grease? I have yet to pull it apart and look inside. But with 0 HSC, I find it does just fine on trails and limited bike park. Maybe at superhuman speeds the HSC is useful.
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I screwed up a jump that wasn't insanely high and nosed into the flat landing. I have the same setup as you and I'm 195lbs. Travel band was on the lower portion of Kashima logo. I'm thinking of adding some HSC or maybe a volume spacer. I tried adding some more psi but didn't like how it handled the chop. Or should I be adjusting in a different way? Or maybe it's good where it is?
 
#257 ·
Dont know is it me or just my fork.
i am 79kgs and running 80-81psi with 1 token. LSC 10 klicks from open. fast rebound. HSC a couple clicks from open.
if i am riding slowly the fork feels stiff, but it shines when i am fast and i like to go fast.
also if i am going hard into berms with holes the fork has to stay high in the travel. with 75 psi the fork blows through travel too fast.
 
#258 ·
Nevada 29er said:
I find it hard to believe anyone is running any HSC on this fork. At 205 lbs w/o gear, I've been running about 70 psi to get 28-30% sag, full open HSC, and 0-4 LSC depending on the trail.

Everytime I try adding HSC the fork just seems to get harsh. Too much grease? I have yet to pull it apart and look inside. But with 0 HSC, I find it does just fine on trails and limited bike park. Maybe at superhuman speeds the HSC is useful.
Click to expand...
My experience is similar. Although I'm 160lbs, I'm running 46 PSI, 0-2 clicks HSC and 4 clicks LSC, so almost entirely open. The fork feels dialed, any more than that and it feels really harsh.
 
#259 ·
darsannn said:
Dont know is it me or just my fork.
i am 79kgs and running 80-81psi with 1 token. LSC 10 klicks from open. fast rebound. HSC a couple clicks from open.
if i am riding slowly the fork feels stiff, but it shines when i am fast and i like to go fast.
also if i am going hard into berms with holes the fork has to stay high in the travel. with 75 psi the fork blows through travel too fast.
Click to expand...
i bet if you ride down a road sat on the seat for say 30-60 seconds then stood up and compress the forks they will jolt into the travel, this is exactly how mine felt.

They were really stiff - like i had a ton of lsc but good when giving it the beans.

if you pull the lower legs off you will be able to cycle the damper and air shaft to see if one of them has any resistance. my moneys on the damper
 
#260 ·
maybe you misunderstood. my fork feels stiff but it works great. just wanted to share my settings and convince some of you to try more psi. when i learned something about fork setup, if you want to feel it nicely on the car park it only get worse on the trail. you have to think - oh this must be unridealbe. there are bigger forces on the trail than you might think.

plus if your rear is to soft you wont get enough pressure on the front. balancing the suspension ist relevant.
 
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