Who's gett'n one, got one and who's ridden one? Whats your thoughts?
Manitou Mattoc
bigcrs
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36" stanchions may be a bit on the unwieldy side for MTB's :eekster:
I agree though, Manitou could do with having a burlier fork to compete with the Fox 36 and Lyrik etc.
They could just improve the crown and bridge to have more volume and material, which could stiffen up things dramatically.
The suntour auron is stiffer than most other forks even with more than her 34mm stanchions. Same goes to Bos deville and X Fusion trace with uni crown whereas the other forks of x fusion even flex ore than the mattoc.
I´ve been on a freeride track ysterday with very large and steep burms. Here with my 92 kilo grams riderweigth in gear a really could feel the disturbing flex. That is the only issue with my mattoc that I have. Otherwise I really love it with the stiffer shimstack from Manitou for heavier riders and the IRT.
I run my fork relatively stiff. So I use 150 of 170 mm at maximum most of the time. But yesterday took a jump to short and landet in rising landing. -> 166mm travel.
Setup: main 58 PSI, IRT 130 PSI, HSC 2 from open, LSC open, HBO open
PErhaps I´ll just drop to 53/ 120 but not less. I like to have a fork with initial soft stroke but very good support for braking on steep tracks and aggressive steep berms.
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Eek, I can't believe I did that.
But yes, I think a 36mm SC fork with the same internals as the Mattoc would sell better. Not sure if it would make a better fork or not.
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Thoughts on Mattoc spaced down to 120mm for aggressive XC
Guys, what are your thoughts of a Mattoc 650b spaced down to 120mm for use on an aggressive XC Hardtail or short travel dually, like a Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt (120mm-130mm fork travel)?
I am lightweight (130lbs)
From reading this thread there seems to be two approaches to reducing travel: using the aftermarket travel reducers where more are needed to get to 120mm, or temporary travel adjust by setting height with a pump attached.
I currently am on a Marvel Pro 120mm and am drawn to the adjustability an plushness that everyone talks about on the Mattoc.
Thanks.. I am on my 10th Manitou btw. I've been a fan since the Manitou 2
Guys, what are your thoughts of a Mattoc 650b spaced down to 120mm for use on an aggressive XC Hardtail or short travel dually, like a Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt (120mm-130mm fork travel)?
I am lightweight (130lbs)
From reading this thread there seems to be two approaches to reducing travel: using the aftermarket travel reducers where more are needed to get to 120mm, or temporary travel adjust by setting height with a pump attached.
I currently am on a Marvel Pro 120mm and am drawn to the adjustability an plushness that everyone talks about on the Mattoc.
Thanks.. I am on my 10th Manitou btw. I've been a fan since the Manitou 2
Stanchions
Actually there Is no need dir Blogger stanchions.
Pool at a deville, mrp stage, ö öhlins rxf or trance unicrown and then compare them to the mattoc. A far burlier crown ans Mo Re volume in the bridgewould Do the job. A suntour auron Is stiffer than the 35 offerings of other competitors. It' s just about the other details. The back arch of the mattoc is thin rather 2 dimensional. ;-) Zahn having real volume. Themen crown Is to narrow coming from the steerer to the stanchions. Espiccially this part Is My greatest issue Witz an otherwisegreat irt fork ;-)
Actually
Actually there Is no need dir Blogger stanchions.
Pool at a deville, mrp stage, ö öhlins rxf or trance unicrown and then compare them to the mattoc. A far burlier crown ans Mo Re volume in the bridgewould Do the job. A suntour auron Is stiffer than the 35 offerings of other competitors. It' s just about the other details. The back arch of the mattoc is thin rather 2 dimensional. ;-) Zahn having real volume. Themen crown Is to narrow coming from the steerer to the stanchions. Espiccially this part Is My greatest issue Witz an otherwisegreat irt fork ;-)
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I think your Google translate has stopped working... Or you may be drunk
It is the stupid auto correct from my smart phone, which of course tries to use german terms ;-)
Basic message: the bigger stanchions are not that important for a stiffer fork. With other factors you can archieve even more. Crown and arch are the most important areas of a single crown fork.and material. ;-)
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Had a feeling that's what you meant to say lol.
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After succesfully rebuilt my Mattoc from 160 mm 26" to 150 mm 27,5", I still measure 160 mm of inner leg/stanchion at the lowest point (innside).
The fork works perfect, but I was expecting a certain shortening... (?)
Had a bit thicker oir (5 wt vs. 2.5 wt) and can't tell much difference. Use now rebound two cliks from minimum which gives me a fast rebound.
Very easy to work with! I'm only curious about the stanchion visible length. This is discussed before, but I couldn't find it...
The fork works perfect, but I was expecting a certain shortening... (?)
Had a bit thicker oir (5 wt vs. 2.5 wt) and can't tell much difference. Use now rebound two cliks from minimum which gives me a fast rebound.
Very easy to work with! I'm only curious about the stanchion visible length. This is discussed before, but I couldn't find it...
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Switching to 27.5 make for 10mm of extra stanchion. The spacer before the bottom out bumper is the cause. It's needed to keep the tire from contacting the frame at full compression and the fork now bottom 10mm short of the crown.
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Thanks! That did answer my question in an easy and understandable way!
Just got my mattoc and have a few questions about general function. It's got IRT installed, I read that I need to pump up IRT chamber first then main chamber. When I go to set the sag should I let out all of the air that's currently in it or just adjust higher or lower PSI from where it currently is set? And do I still need to set the IRT first when setting up sag?
Also read I can run 30-35% sag on main chamber and the adjust IRT for more mod support, the manual gives me a 60psi main and 100psi IRT for my weight range which is about 165 geared up. Should I follow that to start and adjust from there?
Also read I can run 30-35% sag on main chamber and the adjust IRT for more mod support, the manual gives me a 60psi main and 100psi IRT for my weight range which is about 165 geared up. Should I follow that to start and adjust from there?
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If the new piston is installed, you should not see any oil. There should only be oil in the air side. You should be able to run 30-35% sag and set the IRT to give a stronger mid and end stroke without question.
You bought this used? It might have oil in the main air chamber that is causing your problems. If this was bought used, I woudl recommend doing a rebuild:
https://reachcontrol.wordpress.com/...015/05/05/manitou-mattoc-pro-amazing-with-teardown-instructions-damper-removal/
Yes bought used. He put 40-50 hrs and just installed the IRT, updated piston and changed fluids before shipping to me.
Is there a way of removing the oil without doing a full rebuild? Not sure I need to rebuild it but something may have happened when he serviced it before shipping.
I would think that I could compress the fork fully by hand (not attached to bike) with no air in it right?
Is there a way of removing the oil without doing a full rebuild? Not sure I need to rebuild it but something may have happened when he serviced it before shipping.
I would think that I could compress the fork fully by hand (not attached to bike) with no air in it right?
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With no air, if you compress the fork, you will get close to full travel (~ 5mm less). If the fork is bottoming out at 120 mm (and is set at 160), you might have way too much oil in the damper side or too much oil in the air side.
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