Boost 148 adapters

Idaho · Oct 1, 2015

jon123 said:
Mingloid: Do you think it's an issue or concern the end caps are not sitting in the dropouts? Just resting on the axle.
I don't know if it's possible for a 12mm thru axle to break but if it does the wheels are not secured in the dropouts.

How is the wheel any more secure in the dropouts if the axle breaks on a boost spaced hub....? Not sure what dropouts you are using, but my rear wheel just slides right out when the axle is removed. If one side were to somehow snap on my axle, the wheel is still going to instantly slant to one side in the rear triangle with the rear tire massively rubbing on it and probably cause terrible wreck, probably destroying my brake rotor in the process. I don't think any magic would prevent that from happening.

jon123 · Oct 1, 2015

Idaho said:
How is the wheel any more secure in the dropouts if the axle breaks on a boost spaced hub....? Not sure what dropouts you are using, but my rear wheel just slides right out when the axle is removed. If one side were to somehow snap on my axle, the wheel is still going to instantly slant to one side in the rear triangle with the rear tire massively rubbing on it and probably cause terrible wreck, probably destroying my brake rotor in the process. I don't think any magic would prevent that from happening.

That's one thing I was wondering. Is it any more secure wih dropouts? I know the 12 x 150 standard did NOT use dropouts, though the newer 12 x 157 does.
My wheel slots into the dropout and feels fairly secure but of course that's just resting on the ground, not moving and with no weight on it.
Maybe actually riding their would be no difference if the axle broke whether or not it was in the dropouts.
Also I'm guessing there is very little chance an axle that thick would break?

Mingloid · Oct 2, 2015

jon123 said:
Mingloid: Do you think it's an issue or concern the end caps are not sitting in the dropouts? Just resting on the axle.
I don't know if it's possible for a 12mm thru axle to break but if it does the wheels are not secured in the dropouts.

Hmmm.... good points. I'm betting (with this hack) on a couple of things :

1. The hub does not rest/rely on the shoulder in the dropout.
This is visible on QR15 forks, and a little less on 142 rears.

2. The clamping force of the axle is enough to keep everything pushed together as 1 unit.
Imagine the older skinny quick releases keeping the front wheel in place during heavy disc braking and the rear in place on road bikes in an all-out sprint.

3. My 160lb bodyweight and inablity to take huge air should keep things way below the safety factor.

4. If grade 5 Ti bolts can be used on rotors, then grade 12 steel bolts should be OK, even with 3mm spacers.

I wish I have the ability to do the calculations or computer simulations, but I'm just going by guesstimations that this should have plenty of safety factor (for me and my riding style).

Any one else wanna try this? Hahaha.... I promise to post any news of failure here. Wish me luck!

eb1888 · Oct 2, 2015

I couldn't build a new rear wheel yet anyway, no 350 6 bolt hubs are out. This lets you get the tire space benefits right away with a 35mm ID or wider rim and get the hub when you want later.

BluePitch · Oct 21, 2015

Mingloid said:
Here's what it looks like on the inside of the rear triangle, and bolted up.
View attachment 1018442

These are the sketches I gave to the machine shop.
View attachment 1018446

Just out of curiosity what bike did you do this on?

It seams so simple, I just need to find a machine shop that can do this.

jon123 · Oct 23, 2015

Mingloid
Any update on how this has been working out for you?

dmar123 · Nov 2, 2015

One up, Wolftooth, etc. need to start making adapter kits asap.

WolfTooth · Nov 3, 2015

dmar123 said:
One up, Wolftooth, etc. need to start making adapter kits asap.

We are listening and monitoring.

@dgaddis1 summed up the challenges and options well.

-Brendan

dmar123 · Nov 5, 2015

WolfTooth said:
We are listening and monitoring.

@dgaddis1 summed up the challenges and options well.

-Brendan

I think dgaddis1 is overthinking it....

like what mingloid has:
2 3mm spacers on each side to accommodate axle width
1 3mm spacer behind the brake rotor to push that outwards
leave cassette where it is and make a goat link for the rear deralliuer that pushes it in 3mm...boom!

jon123 · Nov 5, 2015

dmar123 said:
I think dgaddis1 is overthinking it....

like what mingloid has:
2 3mm spacers on each side to accommodate axle width
1 3mm spacer behind the brake rotor to push that outwards
leave cassette where it is and make a goat link for the rear deralliuer that pushes it in 3mm...boom!

Agree 100% on both counts.
dgaddis1 is overthinking it.
And a reasonable solution is not out of the question.
Boom indeed.

Mingloid · Nov 6, 2015

jon123 said:
Mingloid
Any update on how this has been working out for you?

Working great! No creaks, braking, nor shifting problems. The RD (XTR 10sp) seems to be handling the 3mm inboard adjustment without a fuss.

The important thing is to torque down everything to spec, so the forces are handled by the tension in the disc bolts and hub axle.

dmar123 · Nov 6, 2015

Mingloid said:
Working great! No creaks, braking, nor shifting problems. The RD (XTR 10sp) seems to be handling the 3mm inboard adjustment without a fuss.

The important thing is to torque down everything to spec, so the forces are handled by the tension in the disc bolts and hub axle.

You could make the spacers even more bomber that would provide additional support to the hub

By adding an additional step on the inside of the spacer that the hub end would plug into and then the outside of the 3mm spacer would plug into the frame...bomber!

This is based off of a DT swiss 12 x 142 hub

dmar123 · Nov 7, 2015

one more...

F-BOOST

BluePitch · Nov 7, 2015

dmar123 said:
one more...

F-BOOST

Be careful......you just let the cat out of the bag! The top "boost" executives will be mad you came up with this and ruined their profit grabbing.

WolfTooth......when can you have this kit available?

jon123 · Nov 7, 2015

dmar123 said:
one more...

F-BOOST

BluePitch said:
WolfTooth......when can you have this kit available?

This is so clever. Nicely done.

Now we just need WolfTooth, OneUp to build them.

riding29 · Nov 7, 2015

Not sure, but looks like notubes might have something for their Neo Hubs.
KIT, NEO, END CAPS, REAR, 12X142/148/157 TA

Unfortunately I have the 3.3 hubs I bought this summer. Maybe they'll come out with endcaps for those too.

dmar123 · Nov 7, 2015

riding29 said:
Not sure, but looks like notubes might have something for their Neo Hubs.
KIT, NEO, END CAPS, REAR, 12X142/148/157 TA

Unfortunately I have the 3.3 hubs I bought this summer. Maybe they'll come out with endcaps for those too.

yeah if you could just get wider end caps that would eliminate the need for the spacers...but if no wider end caps are available having a universal spacer that would work with most/all hubs could be the way to go

someoldfart · Nov 8, 2015

I prefer dgaddis1 thinking. Re dish the rim over and you get a better bracing angle on the drive side and the intended chain angle. Although 6 mm of disc spacing might be a bit much.

jon123 · Nov 10, 2015

So this is interesting: Specialized is working on a kit for their Roval wheels to convert 142 to 148.
Posted in the Roval Questions thread, from their spokesman:

@steelyUK- Glad to hear you like the wheels. yes, we are working on kits right now, they should be available early next year. To make thing simple we are just going to offer them as complete kits, so you will have some extra front endcaps and spacer if you ever upgrade your fork. We wanted to keep the cassette in the same spot so for 142->148 conversions you will use your existing DS endcap, and a +6mm NDS end cap and rotor spacer. The kit will come with longer rotor bolts. This will also require your wheel to be re-dished 3mm.

dmar123 · Nov 11, 2015

re dish the wheel = me not interested.

So If I ever want to re-use these wheels on a normal 142 bike again or sell them i have to dish them back? no thanks. Not to mention the additional costs and time in having to bring your wheel to a bike shop to have it re dished. Good luck doing it yourself...not saying you can't but be prepared to spend some coin on additional tools like a truing stand, dish tool, and tension meter. Mise well just buy a new boost hub at this point.

Also re dishing your nice carbon ENVE wheel yourself and most likely it will be your first time ever dishing a wheel, may void the warranty.

2- 3mm end cap spacers, 1- 3mm rotor spacer, and 1 -3mm link for derailleur = no messing with wheel = easy done. no bike shops, no extra costs.

and if you REALLY want to get nutty you could probably make a front chainring with 3mm of inset to match the rear derailleur link inset. but I doubt the chainline will make much fuss over an 3mm alignment difference.

Boost 148 adapters

Idaho

jon123

Mingloid

eb1888

BluePitch

jon123

dmar123

WolfTooth

dmar123

jon123

Mingloid

dmar123

dmar123

BluePitch

jon123

riding29

dmar123

someoldfart

jon123

dmar123

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