I'm in the market for a chain wear indicator. Park has two chain checkers - the CC-2 ($20) and the CC-3 ($10). What are the advantages of each. To my unlearned eye the cheaper one would appear to be simpler and perhaps better. Anybody know the pros and cons of each - and are there other alternative that you recommend?

The difference in price will not be the deciding factor.

Regards,
Brian

I like using the CC-2 because i can gauge chain stretch as the chain wears and plan ahead. For me once the chain reaches .85 it only takes 2 weeks to go over 1.0 and break so i replace the chain between .75-.85 .

 

good old fashoned ruler,and good set of eyecrometers:thumbsup:

 

Two great tools

Two great tools you should consider adding to your collection:

The Roloff Caliber 2
An excellent chain-wear tool. Simple, accurate, no moving parts.

For your cassette Roloff makes HG-IG-Check
Though designed for shimano cassettes you can use it on an any cassette, cog, or chainring to get an accurate gauge of drivetrain wear.

 

What is the procedure for using a ruler?

good old fashoned ruler,and good set of eyecrometers:thumbsup:

Pardon my ignorance. How many links should measure exactly how long? My drivetrains are all shimano 9 speed.

Regards,
Brian

 

The Roloff Caliber 2
An excellent chain-wear tool. Simple, accurate, no moving parts.

excellent tool, they don't get any better than this.

For your cassette Roloff makes HG-IG-Check
Though designed for shimano cassettes you can use it on an any cassette, cog, or chainring to get an accurate gauge of drivetrain wear.

i didn't know Roloff made this. just added it to my wish list...

 

Pardon my ignorance. How many links should measure exactly how long? My drivetrains are all shimano 9 speed.

Regards,
Brian

line up zero to the center of a chain pin,another pin should fall dead center at 12".anything over that and its stretched,depending on how much its stretched means either replaceing the chain or the chain,cassette,and chainrings.
if it is stretched its time to make a visual inspection of your c-rings(if the teeth look like shark fins its time to replace)most people tend to wear out their middle rings first,and two or three of their cassette cogs.if a customer has worn out their small ring as well,ill recomend a full drivetrain replacement:madman: .(another reason to ride a single speed )

 

I have the cc-3

I have the cc-3 and it looks basically the same as the roloff one. Stupid simple to use. I think it is perfect for the home mechanic.:thumbsup:

 

Rohloff cassette wear indicator tool

excellent tool, they don't get any better than this.

i didn't know Roloff made this. just added it to my wish list...

Yuppers, it's an excellent tool, although you could probably make one yourself using five or six links of new chain.

It works by applying tension to the chain - using the last link you attempt to lower it over a tooth on the cassette, if it hangs up your cassette is worn and should be replaced.

 

Yuppers, it's an excellent tool, although you could probably make one yourself using five or six links of new chain.

Or you could just crunch up a hill, if you live close to one. That's all I do. But if you can't road-test the cassette conveniently, the cassette wear gauge could save a ride. The cassette may work fine on the flats but could still skip under load, and it would be a bummer to figure that out a couple of miles from the trailhead.

 

I'm in the market for a chain wear indicator. Park has two chain checkers - the CC-2 ($20) and the CC-3 ($10). What are the advantages of each. To my unlearned eye the cheaper one would appear to be simpler and perhaps better. Anybody know the pros and cons of each - and are there other alternative that you recommend?

As any chain wear measurement is magnified over a larger distance, or measurement, the greater the measurment we can take, the more accurate that chain wear measurement.

All chain wear gauges (that I'm aware of) measure over a small distance of about 4-5".

I have two ways of measuring chain wear, depending on whether the chain is on the bike or off the bike. The first one, on my chainpages, takes a reading over a distance of 12". My other measurer is a 4' piece of steel tape suspended from a nail - the same nail from which I hang the chain. This then magnifies the wear 4x the amount over my 12" tape - or about 12x the amount over a store bought unit. I have a whole $1 invested.

I have checked both of my steel tape gauges against a store-bought chain wear indicator and the difference in accuracy is staggering.

 

chain "stretch"

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

 

I have checked both of my steel tape gauges against a store-bought chain wear indicator and the difference in accuracy is staggering.

I own a Rohloff chain checker, but it (like either of the Park units) are only good for quick, initial readings. The fact of the matter is that any of these Rohloff or Park units will give you an early false positive.

The 12" ruler method Mike describes is as close as you can some to certainty.

 

Wipperman chain checker seems to have longest measurement span - so long that it is actually bit hard to use on some FS frames.
See if you can navigate to it at http://www.connexchain.com/ ->products -> accessories, it's one of those stupid Macromedia Flash player pages from h3ll.
I've been using for couple of years and like it. Of course ruler method is most accurate but it's nice to have chain checker around for quick checks.

 

Wipperman chain checker seems to have longest measurement span - so long that it is actually bit hard to use on some FS frames.
See if you can navigate to it at http://www.connexchain.com/ ->products -> accessories, it's one of those stupid Macromedia Flash player pages from h3ll.
I've been using for couple of years and like it. Of course ruler method is most accurate but it's nice to have chain checker around for quick checks.

Somewhat on topic...does anyone have a good source for either the CC-2 or the Wipperman tool? Having been motivated by this thread (and the recent destruction of $200 of Campy gear due to my own negligence in not watching the chain closer) I was oh-so-close to the impluse purchase from an un-named bike discounter (google Park CC-2 and see which one comes up). The $6.50 shipping and handling was expensive but expected. But they tossed in $1.50 for "insurance"? Shouldn't that have been "extra margin, because we were were just kidding about the price"? Small nut, but with the CA sales tax added in this was going to be a $34 purchase for a $24 item.

I bailed.

Perhaps foolishly, considering the cost of the parts that I recently torched. But it still felt good. Now I just have to figure out how to unsubscribe from their mailing list. And find an LBS who will get it for me--they deserve this bit of business.

Oh...I guess that was a rant. Wrong board, too. Sorry.

 

i have the 12" wipperman, and it works great.

got it a couple of years ago from some online bikeshop in tennessee

speedgoat has it now, but it is twice what i paid:

http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=38812&cat=330&brand=55

 

I bought a spin doctor chain checker at performance for $4. It works the same way as the Park cc-3, but costs 50% less!!. It measures .75% and 1% wear. To preserve the rings and cassette I replace my chain after .75% but before 1%, which is in line with Sheldon Brown's recommendation.

edit: I was looking for it on performance's website but could not find it. I got it at the store just to clarify.

 

Originally bought Park CC-2, but later sold it on Ebay.
Now I have the CC-3 which is simple, cheaper and much better.

My main concern with the CC-2 was the pins in the tool always looked bent and it wasnt reassuring..... the CC-3 is dead easy

 

Rohlhof Caliber 2 here.. works great.. and got a good deal on ebay for it.

Cheers,
Cris

 

speedgoat has it now, but it is twice what i paid:

http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=38812&cat=330&brand=55

Wow, quite expensive considering that I bought mine for 5euros from Garda Marathon two years ago.

 

Why measure your chain?? Just change your chain often-I only run my chains for a maximum of 1000 miles. I run cheap chains HG-73, Sram 970 or 950. I have drive trains that are 10+ years old and have never broke a chain (knock on wood) But if I were to measure I would use a old ruler, 1/2 in between the rollers, any stretch over 1/16 inch over the 12 inches of the ruler, I would replace it.

 

The chain gauges are nice b/c they take the guesswork out of it, and are arguably more accurate than a rule when you factor user error into the equation. In order to measure the amount of play in the bushings the chain should be pulled taut. I found this hard to do on the bike with just two hands. The wear indicators pop onto a short section of chain without removing it from the bike; couple of seconds and you're done with no guesswork.

 

Why measure your chain?? Just change your chain often

Why replace "often" when you can know for sure. The ruler only takes a couple of seconds, and removes the guesswork.

 

The chain gauges are nice b/c they take the guesswork out of it, and are arguably more accurate than a rule when you factor user error into the equation.

The chain guages (Rohloff and Park) are wildly inaccurate. But at least they always err on the conservative side (i.e. false/early "replace" indication).

In my experience, they'll indicate your chain is ready for replacment when in reality they are only half way there.

The main error comes from what they measure: they push opposing rollers in opposite directions, meaning not only chain pitch is measured, but the gap between chain bushing and roller as well (imagine a loose fitting wedding ring).

There is no accepted standard as to what this gap should be, and when you are attempting to measure half a millimeter of "stretch" across 7 links, that small amount of play inside the roller suddenly is of major significance.

And the few number of links the Rohloff and Park tools measure across is a factor, too. Those gauges are looking for ~0.5mm of "stretch" to indicate .5% wear, while with a 12" ruler is looking for a less error prone ~1.5mm (or ~1/16").

Just as an aside, you would need a full 37.5" of chain for each 0.5% stretch to equal an easy to measure 5.0mm.

 

I don't want to get in a pissing match-but I want to answer a few things.

DMW- Doesn't the derailluer hold the chain taut--I just did a quick survey of all my bikes--and yep the spring in the derailluer is holding the chain pretty taut--just a thought.

Speedub--Well I agree with changing the chain at 1/16in or 1.5mm, but in my years of experience thats about a 1000 miles on a MTB or 1500 on a road bike. So thats how often I change them--all I can go on the what I have experienced. I have a 8-speed XTR drive train (cranks, chainrings, and cassette) that I have had since the early 90's and it works flawlessly, so by changing my cheap chains often I have never had to change any of the other part. I also agree with your roller pushed apart comment.

 

Why measure your chain?? Just change your chain often-I only run my chains for a maximum of 1000 miles.

Will you send me all your used chains? I'll pay postage.

Why measure chains? Because if not you may be throwing away good money.

When I was working on my chains FAQ I was sent some demo chains from SRAM. One of those chains (meaured religously!) was on my bike for eighteen months and by that time had only worn half of my "throw away" measurment. It's still in my travelling bag as a spare chain.

I don't get anywhere near 18 months out of recent chains (it must have been a freak) but I sure as heck get more than a 1000 miles.