[Lizard King]

My shifting on my low normal rear derailleur M960 was fine until I decided to try and make it even better by using a few drops of Prolink chain lube in the housings. Bad idea. I have a suspicion that it pulled in contaminants or gummed up in there. Now, my shifting is impossible to adjust perfectly. So now, I will be cutting new housing, cleaning the cables, and do something a little smarter like use Silicone spray in the housing.

Just wanted to warn people to not use stuff like Prolink on cables.

 

[EJ_92606]

My suggestion is to not use anything on cables, but to get the teflon cables instead. If you still have an issue and have a shimano derailler, get the Avid Rollamajig as it reduces friction substantially.

 

[Zanetti]

If the plastic liners in the shift housing are in good shape, no lube is needed.

 

[Speedub.Nate]

I use dry Silicone spray. I've got a can of Boeshield T9 I haven't tried yet, but hear is good. Ed Nasjleti from SRAM recommended one called McLube SailKote, which he raved about, but I haven't gotten around to tracking down at my local boat shop.

I've given up on Teflon coated cables and rely strictly on uncoated stainless steel. I find with Teflon, the coating flakes off at the pressure points (cable bends and entry/exit points), and the flakes just float around inside the housing. I doubt the flakes are doing any harm and they're not attracting any dirt, but it just seemed like a pointless addition.

 

[presslab]

I use silicone in a syringe:

https://www.e-comusa.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBCo&Product_Code=15-700-007

Just stick it on the shifter end of the cable and squirt some in there. I think the fancy XTR cables have silicone in them from the factory.

 

[Lizard King]

Update

*Update*

After I cleaned the cables, installed new housing and sprayed silicone inside the housing, it's shifting beautifully.

I really dig the results with the silicone spray. It takes very little pressue to shift now and it's super quick. Best I've every had.

By the way, I've had bad experiences with teflon cables. They eventually flake.

 

[logbiter]

I use dry Silicone spray. I've got a can of Boeshield T9 I haven't tried yet, but hear is good. Ed Nasjleti from SRAM recommended one called McLube SailKote, which he raved about, but I haven't gotten around to tracking down at my local boat shop.

I've given up on Teflon coated cables and rely strictly on uncoated stainless steel. I find with Teflon, the coating flakes off at the pressure points (cable bends and entry/exit points), and the flakes just float around inside the housing. I doubt the flakes are doing any harm and they're not attracting any dirt, but it just seemed like a pointless addition.

I finally shot some dry 'mclube sailkote' recently, it seems slicker than the T9. I haven't got but a month or so commuting on that bike (plenty wet, no mud... on the monster crosser).
We had a can of the mclube in the clearance bin (I work PT at a west marine) so I thought I'd give it a shot as it was a slow, rainy sunday so I had some time on hands at the store... I got the canti's adjusted to stop squealing too :thumbsup:
I'll post up long term results later on the mclube.
FWIW- I can't tell a difference btw T9 & silicone spray for cables, though it seems like the T9 lasts a bit longer.

 

[jeffscott]

My teflon coated cables work well long past when the teflon wears off, I don't use any lube.

But these are the XTR housings with the rubber boot to keep crap out, it has worked great through one winter and this summer zero lub.

Full length housings would probably work as well.

Before I had the housings without boots, and I needed lube winter freezing and summer mud and silt, the best was the Finish line stanchion lube from Enduroseals (a pure Flurocarbon liquid ( Teflon)), second was the cable lube at the motor cycle shop(probably silicone)