As Nino is now racing a 120mm travel bike, you’d think that Scott would have a lightweight version for sale soon. Has anybody heard anything?
Updated Spark????
packfill
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An update - Acros has a youtube video that shows what to replace to use a standard stem - and lists the components. It's at
Regards
Kaj
I’m having doubts about my rear shock Fox Nude 5:
Do you notice the change in travel in the traction (intermediate) position compared with open?
I can clearly notice a much slower compression, but not change in travel
And for example I set sag at 25% in open, shouldn’t I have closer to 20% sag in traction mode?
Do you notice the change in travel in the traction (intermediate) position compared with open?
I can clearly notice a much slower compression, but not change in travel
And for example I set sag at 25% in open, shouldn’t I have closer to 20% sag in traction mode?
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I have this from time to time, mainly on tough climbs (which are only when I travel, so that may be why I don't notice it as much). Nothing from the headset, mainly the swingarms. Has anyone else had any feedback from Scott/LBS on this? I was going to touch base with my LBS, but they've already had to replace a pair of brake pads under warranty (would not bed in, replaced with metallic), and the twinloc lever broke. Owned less than 6 months.
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On all my Scotts (and many other frames) I've had to tighten the suspension pivots after the first week due to loosening & creaking, but they have stayed tight and creak free since.
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Yeah, this is pretty much what I've done and it mostly went away, they just sneak back in occasionally.
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6,134 Posts
Well drop by Maui. We'll rebuild our suspension pivots, then go for a session at Hookipa.
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Been there, done that. It's been about 15 years, time to go back. I was still on a twintip then, now strapless surf, surfing wise - foil, so I'd have a ball in Maui. Headed to Barbados in February, close second.
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While we are talking about the Spark - what is everyone's suspension setup? I've bounced back and forth between going more plush 30-35% sag and using the traction control setting a majority of the time, or going more like 20-25% sag and keeping it open more (except for climbs/gravel).
according to manual this bike should be in the 20-25% sag range.
The problem when I do this is that I can’t use mire than 70% travel even on medium drops
When I set to 25-27% sag bike feels more plush, but pedal strikes begin to be very frequent and still I can’t manage to use all travel
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I actually think it might feel a little too linear and have been meaning to test a volume spacer. I run 25% sag and see FULL travel on nearly every ride*. I don't feel it bottoming though so it might be perfect. Only way to know is adding a spacer and seeing how that compares. With a low bottom bracket and 175 cranks this bike is more prone to pedal strikes than any other I've owned so I wouldn't want to run more than 25% sag. When I've added a little air to reduce sag & pedal strikes and keep the travel o-ring off the very end of the shock shaft, that makes it feel too harsh, high in the travel, and lose traction. So for anything other than XC racing I don't think sub-25% sag is a good setup. I think the XC and Trail builds have different shock tunes, so we could be comparing apples to oranges. I have a '22 Ultimate, so the trail build (23.8lbs!).
*I treat this thing like a modern trail bike. Riding the trails I built for my enduro bike, but being a little smoother. Lots of big jumps but being careful to always land cleanly.
thanks for the feedback!
mine is RC Team, with different shock, which has less volume in the open chamber.
I weight around 75kg
I tried with no volume spacer (stock spacer is 2in3), and I could use more travel but the mid traction mode was softer and not so good for climbing steep trails, where I want a higher rear end.
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It sounds like you'd like the trail shock but that's an expensive experiment. Even if you found someone local to do a temporary swap with, it's kind of a hassle cuz you need a fresh cable.
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I’ve never checked the sag in each mode, but I have recently had my rear shock serviced and it’s night and day better. Each mode is distinct.
I just put XT 8100s 170mm with 52mm chainline on. It's working well with just enough chain clearance (~2mm) and loads of chainstay to crank clearance (~1.5cm)
Edit: good call Leland on the chainring size. I've got a 28 on there, 30 looks like it'd be fine, and 32 I'd definitely be measuring...
Also unrelated but my headset bearings still look/feel great after 2 years. Seems like grease is all that's needed to keep them fresh (YMMV if you ride in the rain every week). Checked them when the bike sat for a couple days after driving through a heavy sleet storm for 5 hours then racing in the rain for a couple hours.
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I'm not a fan of the wide Q-factor of Sram's "DUB Wide" 55mm chainline cranks that come on all the new Scotts. I tried replacing the XX1 cranks on my Spark Ultimate with 52mm regular DUB XX1 cranks using their 2mm driveside spacer but the 34t chainring was too close. It looked like a 32 or even 30 would also be too close. I tried a 3mm spacer but the bearing preload was too high before I finished tightening.
So with Sram cranks your options are to run the wide BB axle or be limited to 0mm offset chainrings meant for BB30 frames.
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