[SCTerp]

Just hung up with PNW and they said clamp only for TRP brakes... Not sure how the person above pulled it off (nor did PNW) as they've been non-responsive but would prefer a more integrated solution. I'll have to go with the clamp in the meantime.

PNW Shimano I-spec II clamp with the lip ground down:

Problem solved:

Plenty of rotational adjustment. With the Loam 2 lever, the far right hole doesn't work as the lever assembly hits up against the brake clamp. Left two holes work fine for horizontal adjustment.

Sorry for the bad pics - my iPhone camera is toast from mounting on motorcycles.

 

[CCalomino]

PNW Shimano I-spec II clamp with the lip ground down:

View attachment 2029039
View attachment 2029040

Problem solved:

View attachment 2029041

Plenty of rotational adjustment. With the Loam 2 lever, the far right hole doesn't work as the lever assembly hits up against the brake clamp. Left two holes work fine for horizontal adjustment.

Sorry for the bad pics - my iPhone camera is toast from mounting on motorcycles.

Yep you got it. That's my local shop has been doing and it works great 👍

 

[benno_r]

Has anyone had any luck reducing free-stroke (permanently). Have tried thinner bleed blocks and advancing pistons with the wheel out, and while that works great as a temp fix, it is always temporary and reverts after a few rides.

I like the lever to be firm well outside my knuckles, so I am having to run the levers way out to where I can barely reach them to have the firm point where it is.

 

[547319]

Just bleeding mine did that. I think I used Shimano Bleed blocks.

 

[socalrider77]

Has anyone had any luck reducing free-stroke (permanently). Have tried thinner bleed blocks and advancing pistons with the wheel out, and while that works great as a temp fix, it is always temporary and reverts after a few rides.

I like the lever to be firm well outside my knuckles, so I am having to run the levers way out to where I can barely reach them to have the firm point where it is.

Do a lever bleed with the pads and rotor in, flick it a couple times. Fluid should take up that extra lever throw, had to do similar on codes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[saintberry]

Just curious if you figured this out yet.

Like you, my first set of TRPs and integrating levers is a bit challenging the say the least... I'm trying to get my DHR Evos to play nice with my PNW Loam 2 lever. Based on the above, I presume I'm supposed to get the I-spec II adapter from PNW. Can anyone confirm? Thanks in advance.

I ended up just getting the bar clamp for Wolf Tooth remote thinking it was going to be a temp setup until I worked out how to properly mount with an adapter. Thankfully the lever is in an okay position with the bar mount I've just left it like that. I've got the I-Spec EV adapter on the right for the shifter and that one works well.

Pretty annoying TRP have their own implementation of I-Spec II.. I guess it's not surprising for the bike industry.

Reading these posts about the loam lever adapter has given me the confidence to get the grinder on the Wolf Tooth I-Spec II adapter and just do a friction fit.

 

[Nat]

Do you guys prefer the brake lever and other levers integrated? I've always preferred them separated so I could adjust the angles independently.

 

[chadbrochills]

Do you guys prefer the brake lever and other levers integrated? I've always preferred them separated so I could adjust the angles independently.

I like the clean look, but also prefer to be able to adjust them independently.

 

[Miggs70]

So I just installed these brakes and they are amazing coming from Code R's, but I cut my front hose a little shorter than I would like. It still works fine but I didn't leave enough to slide off the bars if needed.
So the TRP 5.0 Banjo hose kit is out of stock everywhere, is the Tektro kit the same hose and banjo?

 

[chadbrochills]

So I just installed these brakes and they are amazing coming from Code R's, but I cut my front hose a little shorter than I would like. It still works fine but I didn't leave enough to slide off the bars if needed.
So the TRP 5.0 Banjo hose kit is out of stock everywhere, is the Tektro kit the same hose and banjo?

I did the same on my 5010, but a little turn of the bars and they had just enough hose length to come off.

 

[Deserteagle99uzi]

So, After splitting my calipers and removing all pistons which let me drain all the oil, reassembled, and hey presto they both work. touch wood haha

They feel amazing the whole time but man the lever is quite far out still when wound all the way in, other than coasters is there any other options?

Did you do anything special to the bleed screw? Mine are still having issues. I may just split them as you did to try to resolve this.

 

[cantstop]

Did anyone have success in fixing the uneven piston issue? I have bled the system, 'exercised' the pistons multiple times but after bleeding when I try to align the caliper the LHS pistons always extend out approx 1-2mm more than the RHS, I can't get the pistons to extend evenly. The brakes seem to work fine but I don't imagine they are designed that way.

 

[Deserteagle99uzi]

Did anyone have success in fixing the uneven piston issue? I have bled the system, 'exercised' the pistons multiple times but after bleeding when I try to align the caliper the LHS pistons always extend out approx 1-2mm more than the RHS, I can't get the pistons to extend evenly. The brakes seem to work fine but I don't imagine they are designed that way.

I had this exact same chronic issue. I sent my rear caliper back and they rebuilt it noting that there was a stubborn air pocket behind a couple pistons as well as some light marring to 1 piston which looked to be a result of a machining issue. After getting them back they developed the same issue albeit much less severe but still chronic on rides over 1 hour. The front's were always like this (slight but persistent issue) but have recently begun leaking mineral oil as well so TRP had me send in the whole system, rotors and all to diagnose. I'm baffled about these issues since it seems it's only occurring to me and maybe 15 other people online.

I noted that the TRP 2.3mm rotors are also out of true (I have the center lock version) and after buying 3 sets in total this seems to just be how they are. I'm unsure if this was overlooked by everyone who bought these or the supplier I'm buying through just likes to bend them prior to shipping but 3/3 bent is not a very good statistic. This could be contributing to the issue as the bent section of rotor is likely pushing the pistons around unnecessarily and cycling the seals a ton.

My best guess would be a combination of QC issues on the caliper and rotor affecting a minority of units is the primary issue here. A secondary issue may be that these brakes are marketed towards DH and Emtb riders (I'm using them on a trail/enduro bike) and thus the majority of people using them simply don't notice the constant dragging since they're motor or gravity assisted.

I'll update if/when I get my brakes back and use them more. I'm unsure if I trust them on this bike as the only other issue which could exist is bike setup messing these up via wheel flex although that's a real shot in the dark.

For the first 6-7 rides that these brakes had no issues they were some of the best brakes I've ever used with excellent modulation, huge stopping power and 100% consistent bite point. It's unfortunate that they seem to be developing this problem for a small number of people and even more unfortunate that it is so hard to nail down.

 

[Clyde Ride]

I had this exact same chronic issue. I sent my rear caliper back and they rebuilt it noting that there was a stubborn air pocket behind a couple pistons as well as some light marring to 1 piston which looked to be a result of a machining issue. After getting them back they developed the same issue albeit much less severe but still chronic on rides over 1 hour. The front's were always like this (slight but persistent issue) so TRP had me send in the whole system, rotors and all to diagnose. I'm baffled about these issues since it seems it's only occurring to me and maybe 15 other people online.

I noted that the TRP 2.3mm rotors are also out of true (I have the center lock version) and after buying 3 sets in total this seems to just be how they are. I'm unsure if this was overlooked by everyone who bought these or the supplier I'm buying through just likes to bend them prior to shipping but 3/3 bent is not a very good statistic. This could be contributing to the issue as the bent section of rotor is likely pushing the pistons around unnecessarily and cycling the seals a ton.

My best guess would be a combination of QC issues on the caliper and rotor affecting a minority of units is the primary issue here. A secondary issue may be that these brakes are marketed towards DH and Emtb riders (I'm using them on a trail/enduro bike) and thus the majority of people using them simply don't notice the constant dragging since they're motor or gravity assisted.

I'll update if/when I get my brakes back and use them more. I'm unsure if I trust them on this bike as the only other issue which could exist is bike setup messing these up via wheel flex although that's a real shot in the dark.

For the first 6-7 rides that these brakes had no issues they were some of the best brakes I've ever used with excellent modulation, huge stopping power and 100% consistent bite point. It's unfortunate that they seem to be developing this problem for a small number of people and even more unfortunate that it is so hard to nail down.

Yes, please do keep us updated. I’m considering the DH brakes for trail use also.

 

[cantstop]

I had this exact same chronic issue. I sent my rear caliper back and they rebuilt it noting that there was a stubborn air pocket behind a couple pistons as well as some light marring to 1 piston which looked to be a result of a machining issue. After getting them back they developed the same issue albeit much less severe but still chronic on rides over 1 hour. The front's were always like this (slight but persistent issue) but have recently begun leaking mineral oil as well so TRP had me send in the whole system, rotors and all to diagnose. I'm baffled about these issues since it seems it's only occurring to me and maybe 15 other people online.

I noted that the TRP 2.3mm rotors are also out of true (I have the center lock version) and after buying 3 sets in total this seems to just be how they are. I'm unsure if this was overlooked by everyone who bought these or the supplier I'm buying through just likes to bend them prior to shipping but 3/3 bent is not a very good statistic. This could be contributing to the issue as the bent section of rotor is likely pushing the pistons around unnecessarily and cycling the seals a ton.

My best guess would be a combination of QC issues on the caliper and rotor affecting a minority of units is the primary issue here. A secondary issue may be that these brakes are marketed towards DH and Emtb riders (I'm using them on a trail/enduro bike) and thus the majority of people using them simply don't notice the constant dragging since they're motor or gravity assisted.

I'll update if/when I get my brakes back and use them more. I'm unsure if I trust them on this bike as the only other issue which could exist is bike setup messing these up via wheel flex although that's a real shot in the dark.

For the first 6-7 rides that these brakes had no issues they were some of the best brakes I've ever used with excellent modulation, huge stopping power and 100% consistent bite point. It's unfortunate that they seem to be developing this problem for a small number of people and even more unfortunate that it is so hard to nail down.

My RS01E rotors were also out of true from new, I changed to a centerlock wheel set and couldn’t source the trp centerlock rotors, so I’m using xt ice-tech. maybe that was a good decision!

Hopefully they will get it sorted for you soon, it’s so frustrating having these issues on new brakes. I noticed TRP recently uploaded a piston purge procedure video on YouTube, which means it could be a common issue:

TRP piston purge procedure

They say air could be trapped behind the pistons which then heats and expands on long rides. Seems like a lot of air would need to be trapped in there to expand that much, they're the experts though. Maybe it tries to escape out of the piston seals when under compression?

 

[nzracer91]

100% my issue, i tried all sorts to cure this untill i split the caliper and did a full empty to full bleed and it was like magic...
hope said This is a common issue on brakes that have little piston retraction - and they have it detailed in their videos about removing air behind pistons.

Also, i bought 10 r1 2.3 rotors, only 2 were true, the other 8 all had a wobble to them.

 

[socalrider77]

I’ve been through 3 sets of pads on my rear dhr evos. First 2 sets the rear pistons were way farther out than the front (so front to back extension was different, not side to side). Thought it was from a bent rotor that I had to nurse down the hill, but the next set of pads did the same thing. After that set I pulled all of the pistons out, cleaned them, put them back in, and then rebled, and new pads. It’s a bit better now and don’t have the front to back issue, but side to side is slightly different. I’ve had that on other brakes too and just shock it up to I’m a heavy guy and hard on brakes and I don’t notice it much.

A similarly large buddy of mine has the same brakes and similar side to side issues. The brakes are so strong even with this efficiency that I’m mostly ignoring it, but curious now if that piston purge video will help at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dwyooaj]

I’ve always done sort of a piston purge when I bleed brakes. Before I start I put something like that park tool between the pads and pump the brakes so the pistons are extended. Then I remove the pads and put the syringe on the caliper and the funnel on the lever. Then I use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons in one at a time, while pulling a bit of suction with the syringe.. sometimes a bubble will go right into teh syringe. Could probably do this a couple times by reclamping the syringe and pumpimg the lever to extend the pistons again.
Then, after pushing the pistons in, clamp teh syringe, put in bleed block, pump the lever again to set the pistons against the bleed block for correct fluid volume, do the usual bleed procedure.

 

[Rev. 14]

Question for some of you all. I have had the DH Evo's and ran them on the Ripmo. Now ordering a fresh new set of DH evo brakes for a new build different bike. I saw Neko Mullaly post on Instagram, that he runs the new shark Galfer rotors 2.0mm with the TRP Dh evos. Plus he uses Shimano Saint DH brake cables. Anyone else try this? I'm ordered me some Galfer Shark Rotors and wondering about the Saint brake hoses. Scroll for the comments and he actually answers quite bit.

Neko's TRP Brake Set up

 

[Rev. 14]

Never had any TRP R1 rotors that were wavy. I did have an issue with my rear brake with the piston that many people seem to have experienced. Didn't know it was a thing sort of. I sent it back to TRP and they fixed it in about a week and took care of shipping and sent a fresh cable. Can't say enough of TRP customer service. Any time I have called they have been excellent.