These are both aluminum hard tail frames with suspension forks? Do the cassettes have the same number of cogs? My instinct would be to focus on fit and function, and to change things only if there is a specific need or opportunity to improve one or both of those for how you want to ride. (My own experience with old 26” MTBs is that I’ve found them much more versatile and fun to ride - except on singletrack - by installing René Herse’ wonderful Rat Trap Pass tires…)

 

Thanks Scuba! This gave me some insight to think about whats important to me.

 

Scuba,

In terms of trail functionality which one is better. Also I see online that 8500 has racing frame and 8000 is a regular mtb frame. Am I right?

 

I may be the wrong person to ask! On the one hand, I definitely value and continue to use older bikes - my gravel/bikepacking/everything-but-singletrack bike is originally an early 2000s steel hardtail, and my commuter bike is originally an early 1990s steel hardtail. On the other hand, I decided to stop riding (and have now disassembled) my 1998 Santa Cruz Superlight full suspension XC MTB, because I decided that I couldn’t safely keep up on local trails with my friends who were on more modern MTBs. The rear suspension was fine, but my suspension fork had ~80mm travel, couldn’t be easily serviced, and also couldn’t be easily replaced, because these days it’s hard to find a decent suspension fork with a straight 1 1/8” steerer (almost everything uses a tapered steerer; folks who need 1” steerers are even more out of luck). And, even more importantly, my Santa Cruz has 26” wheels, rim brakes, and geometry that is closer to road bikes than to any current MTB.

Yes, I loved riding my Santa Cross once upon a time, and yes, some of the trails I rode then are the same now. But I‘ve never been particularly good at riding technical trails; the Santa Cruz’s functionality declined a bit, particularly via the suspension fork and rim brakes; and the friends I rode with were on newer equipment.

All of which is to say: I don‘t know where or how you’d like to ride now, or with whom, etc. But I think it makes sense to be realistic that even high-end/state-of-the-art MTBs from 30, 20, 10, and perhaps even 5-7 years ago are far from state-of-the-art now, in ways that often matter for trail riding. I would not say the same about road bikes, except maybe for the fastest group rides etc; for that matter, as I think lots of other folks have observed, hardtail MTBs from the 1990s or 2000s are much more like today’s gravel bikes (and, I can confirm 1st hand, can make really terrific gravel, bikepacking, and commuting bikes). As for riding trails, I first moved to a fat bike, which was fun and very confidence-inspiring but still slow for other reasons; and last year bought a new hardtail MTB, with modern ”trail” geometry, hydraulic disc brakes, 29” wheels & 2.4” tires, a 130mm fork, and a dropper post. With that, and a weekend of professional MTB lessons, I now can readily keep up with my friends, and feel reasonably safe doing so.

 

Hi Scuba,

This is still helpful since you have used older and newer mtb and compared them. I think you are right that older mtb are generally not safe anymore in challenging trails with older parts in it.Maybe someday I will buy a newer bike to be more safe anywhere I go. Keep enjoying your new bike