Hey guys after a bit of help

I’ve just installed the bolts on the bottom of the shock, one bolt threads into the other to secure it, to 10nm….so I hold one side with a Allen key and torque wrench the other side to 10nm …. However when I’ve done it the whole complete bolt spins around In the frame? It’s torqued the bolt head in to the thread on the other side fine, but the whole complete bolt will spin freely in the frame? Doesn’t seem right to me?

 

As it was discussed on Facebook group ,it is normal to rotate after torquing it to 10nm 😆

 

just want some confirmation from long time users on here, a few other people I’ve spoke to outside of FB don’t think it’s normal and there’s don’t it

 

Hi, I received sentinel frame, but seems that included crown race is wrong. I cannot fit it correctly inside of lower headset bearing. Crown race that I got doesn't match either angle of bearing or diameter.
Lower part of headset says H5068, bearing is TH MR019 1.5 36x45.

I'm seeing following races available:
FSA H6088 for NO57-6 (PN160-5551)
FSA H6078 for NO57 (PN 160-5537).

Can anyone tell which one is the right one?

 

Can anyone compare the Sentinel to a Canfield Lithium? Coming from a process 134 looking for an all arounder for chunky techy riding and occasional enduro. Have ridden the Sentinel (but not the lith) and really liked it but torn between a it and the CBF platform which is also pretty legit.

 

Can anyone compare the Sentinel to a Canfield Lithium? Coming from a process 134 looking for an all arounder for chunky techy riding and occasional enduro. Have ridden the Sentinel (but not the lith) and really liked it but torn between a it and the CBF platform which is also pretty legit.

Haven’t ridden a lithium, but looking at the geo numbers it’s a bit shorter than the sentinel and a degree steeper, so it’ll probably be a bit less aggressive but maybe a better all arounder, but probably won’t plow as well as the sentinel


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Hi All,

posted this on the pinkbike forum also so im sure some may see it twice, but thought id tap in to the knowledge of both!

Just ordered a cascade link for my sentinel v2. Will probably run a coil shock and was thinking of going for a 60 stroke shock - has anyone else done that?
Looks like 62.5 stock stroke gives 165mm of travel with the 57.5 giving 155mm of travel. So a 60 stroke should give about 160mm, making it a 160/160 both ends.
Anyone doing this, any downsides?

 

I do. 160 zeb up front and 60mm marz bomber coil out back (and a 60mm float x when I fancy). I like it, and feel it doesn’t wallow as much when pedaling (because your sag on a 60mm sits you up higher than same on a 62.5mm)


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This happened.



Late afternoon run up and down National trail at South Mountain in Phoenix.

 

So I’m looking for a new frame and the sentinel is at the top of my list along with the stumpy evo alloy. I like transition a lot more as a company though. I really want a do it all bike that has a focus on downhills. I tend to punch through rock gardens trying to hurt each rock as I go through. Popping off of roots and such is ok, but I definitely prefer the straight line method with a smooth rear suspension. Would the sentinel fit this? I previously owned the spire alloy and it’s been one of the best feeling bikes I’ve had, it was just a tad too big for my local riding. I went with a different company for my current frame and I currently regret that haha

 

So I’m looking for a new frame and the sentinel is at the top of my list along with the stumpy evo alloy. I like transition a lot more as a company though. I really want a do it all bike that has a focus on downhills. I tend to punch through rock gardens trying to hurt each rock as I go through. Popping off of roots and such is ok, but I definitely prefer the straight line method with a smooth rear suspension. Would the sentinel fit this?

IME not really. I love mine, but it’s a long travel trail bike rather than a short travel enduro bike. It’s feels lively and poppy rather than a plough. Rewards an active riding style rather than sit back and hold on. Look back through this thread at the number of people adding Cascade links and coil shock trying to turn it into what they think I should be rather than what it is.

 

Minor counterpoint. I’m a new Sentinel owner. I have owned a Spire. And two Stumpjumper Evos. And an RM Instinct for what it’s worth.

In my experience, the Sentinel IS a shorter-travel Spire. They ride very similarly. Is the Sentinel a plow bike? No, but that’s become a fairly nebulous term anyway. I agree that it’s really like a rangy incredibly capable trail bike. Definitely pedals better than the others on your list if that’s a consideration.

 

Minor counterpoint. I’m a new Sentinel owner. I have owned a Spire. And two Stumpjumper Evos. And an RM Instinct for what it’s worth.

In my experience, the Sentinel IS a shorter-travel Spire. They ride very similarly.

I’d like to hear what you think about the Sentinel v. Spire v. SJ Evo after you’ve had some time on the new bike. I just bought a Spire and an Evo in the last couple of weeks.

 

I’ll have a more nuanced view in a bit. I can tell you immediately I like the Sentinel more than those. I’m on an XL sentinel, had an XL Spire and both StEvos were S5.

The Spire was just too much bike for my needs. Too big, too mushy, too much travel. The StEvo doesn’t pedal all that well and I personally found it to be slow. The Sentinel ticks a lot of boxes for me. It really fits well. I mean really. And it turns well. It’s not particularly plush, but I’m still tuning. It is fast.

 

Nice!

 

One thing I’m liking more and more is the versatility of the sentinel. You can go from 140mm and an air shock all the way to 165mm and a coil with a cascade link.

I’ve been running mine at 150r/160f with coil springs at both ends for the 18 months I’ve owned it so far and it’s been excellent for everything I’ve done in the UK. I'm off to the alps in the summer and with a cascade link, a new rear spring and a fork travel adjust I’ve got a 165r/170f bike to take with me that’s not too far from a spire.

 

Who the heck doesn't like mods???

 

Brutal Phoenix ride this morning. If you’re familiar with South Mountain, up Ranger across National to the east, down Geronimo, then back to car. The complete first ascent is 1.5 miles and 819 vertical feet of nasty technical climbing.

View of the towers atop SoMo. I hadn’t yet lost my will to live.

So, some annoyances I’d like to get input on.

Slipping seatpost. I know it’s been addressed, but searching within threads is now impossible. There seems to be a height that the post wants to be. Sadly, it’s about 15mm too low. I’ve pulled the post, cleaned, applied carbon paste and have moved the torque on the clamp up to 9nm (max is 7). What’s the fix?

Persistent rattling through chunky riding. I disassembled, cleaned/greased/locktited all pivots and torqued to spec. The entire front of the bike has been disassembled, headset greased, lowers service on the Lyrik. I assume this is cable rattle where they exit the ports. Fixes?

Thanks.

 

Brutal Phoenix ride this morning. If you’re familiar with South Mountain, up Ranger across National to the east, down Geronimo, then back to car. The complete first ascent is 1.5 miles and 819 vertical feet of nasty technical climbing.

View attachment 2023977

View of the towers atop SoMo. I hadn’t yet lost my will to live.

View attachment 2023978

So, some annoyances I’d like to get input on.

Slipping seatpost. I know it’s been addressed, but searching within threads is now impossible. There seems to be a height that the post wants to be. Sadly, it’s about 15mm too low. I’ve pulled the post, cleaned, applied carbon paste and have moved the torque on the clamp up to 9nm (max is 7). What’s the fix?

Persistent rattling through chunky riding. I disassembled, cleaned/greased/locktited all pivots and torqued to spec. The entire front of the bike has been disassembled, headset greased, lowers service on the Lyrik. I assume this is cable rattle where they exit the ports. Fixes?

Thanks.

Have you tried another shock? the noise might be the knocking sound from you SD that it’s known for

 

The seatpost is incredibly annoying. I’m particular about saddle height and it self-adjusted three times on today’s ride.

I get that noises are hard to diagnose, even in person. I did put cable foam on the seatpost cable when I had it out. The noise is a bit of a rattle/slapping sound. The brakes are Magura, so it’s not the pads. I suppose it could be the shock; I obviously don’t have a spare lying around. I’ll probably try some electrical tape on the cables at the ports to see.

 

Yeah sadly on my previous triangle I did not find a solution, like you it would go down so far then seemed happy, which was no use for my pedal height , drop transition a message I have heard they will warranty them if it continues with no fix

ah right if you’ve tried the foam thing, and the post seems solid then I’m not sure given you’ve tried and disassembled the front end, shock would be worth a check if you can source one

some times I have the sentinel absolutely deadly silent, then randomly it starts making a racket out of no where, either rattles or hollow knocks, but then a strip down or change of dropper cable foam etc usually gets It back silent again, but this loud cracking noise I’ve got just now is quite alarming so I’ll be trying to track that down next annoyingly

 

It’s definitely not chainslap?

 

I under-torque my seatpost clamp. I don’t think I do more than 5.5 nm on my original stock collar. Going up to 9, yeesh—I’d worry about dropper function or even cracking the seat tube. We’ve got to find you a solution!

Search function, as you noted, sucks on MTBR. I have a memory of someone in this thread saying that the WolfTooth clamp in a 36.4 works great on the Sentinel. If we take that sizing advice at face value—and frankly, I’d feel a little nervous about it—their clamp design with the threaded barrel is great for evenly distributing torque. Designs where the clamp material itself is threaded create more of a single pressure point that doesn’t provide circumferential torque as evenly. If you can get confirmation that the 36.4 is compatible, I think that would be worth trying.

 

yeah dont worry about it being 36.4 transition told me this is fine - the transition one is a odd size but they confirmed the 36.4mm would be fine, just avoid the hope one, its garbage, if you google the hope one its apparent its slipped on a lot of peoples bikes over the years and general consensus is its crap!

the thomson one was better but that only requires 2.8nm to torque max, sadly this was too low for mine, it still slipped, but not as bad as the hope, i cranked it up to about 4-5nm to test and the dropper post felt bad like it was binding

i tried cleaning, carbon paste the lot

luckily i got a new front triangle and since then its been fine, so can only assume it was slightly out of tolerance or something, but i only have to torque this to 5nm (with the genuine transition clamp) and its stays put.

It was super super super annoying though so you have my sympathy

 

Have a note off to Transition. Meantime, I went ahead and ordered the 36.4 Wolftooth clamp.

 

from what ive read the WT one is about the only one that will cure this apart from having a new front triangle, i know of a few guys on FB group page that have the front triangle replaced due to this so its defo a thing

 

Transition got back to me and requested digital caliper measurements of the post OD and seat tube ID, which I’ve provided.

Also, think I’ve found at least one of my clunks. Main lower pivot moves laterally 1-2mm at full torque.

Thinking I got a “Friday afternoon” frame.

 

How’d you check that? I want to check mine now


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The pivot? Pull the outer 5mm and confirm the inner 8mm sleeve is torqued to spec. Grab the NDS chainstay and tug. I have a vid, but can’t load it.

 

Got it, no video needed!


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Mine is super obvious and LOUD.

 

no way! this sucks, no wonder you have a constant loud clunk then, im sure thats what it will be, either allowing the pivot axle to move inside making the thud/rattle or just generally as its loose everything around its rattling - thats one for the future if i get a rattle/clunk i cant track down....strange one though as the pivot is inside does it suggest the hole in which the pivot axle is too wide for the actual axle? i guess it cant be much else is theres movement there? with the 5mm outer in place does it move then or does that snug it all up?

 

the seat tube being out of tolerance is sadly common, I forget if I posted about it here or on PB but I 3d printed a spacer to fix mine cant believe it got past QC

 

I measured the ID of the seat tube with a digital caliper and it appears to be in spec. Well, at least as deep as the caliper reaches, which is only a couple mm.

Yes, the pivot moves even with the 5mm collet installed. The stays have 1-2 mm lateral play.

 

ah wow that sucks then, no wonder your getting a noise like that, defo be a warranty job, guessing it may be a full frame too rather than a triangle as the play could be rear or front triangle where they attach

 

You definitely notice it while riding. Feels clunky and loose. Same symptoms as an untightened rear axle. I filed a warranty claim yesterday per input from customer service.

Transition‘s response has been great thus far. Not stoked about filing a claim on a new bike, particularly one that I spent five hours Ridewrapping. Halfway hoping for new hardware to test before dumping the frame. Will see what they suggest.

 

To follow up: Appears the bearings in the main link had migrated a tiny bit outward. I reset them with a punch and reassembled the bike. Haven’t ridden it yet, but it feels secure on the stand.

Regardless, Transition is sending out a new front triangle and stays. Stuff happens and it’s hard to fault the level of service I received.

 

So has anyone done an angle headset at -1 and 170 fork? Just wondering about handling (would pair it was CC link in the back).

 

Do you mean +1°? I’m guessing yes? Adding a longer fork and putting in a -1 would take you down to like a 62° HTA, which I just can’t see being a great way to go. Putting in a +1 and going 170 up front will put you at 170f/165r and a ~64° HTA. I’ve got a friend who did that with theirs and is really happy with it.

Keeping a normal headset, adding the CC link and going 170 up front will land you just over 63°. At that point you’ve got something really similar to a Spire.