Move the seat back and down or tilt the nose up. As you move the seat back you'll be able to lower it (to maintain the same straight line distance to the BB).

 

+1

-F

 

Without seeing what's going on, it's hard to say for sure.

It DOES take some core strength to support your upper body. And it takes some flexibility to hinge comfortably at the hips.

If you're a long-legged rider with a short torso and/or short arms, then your seat is going to be pretty high relative to your bars. If you have a bike with a pretty steep STA, a similar sort of thing happens. There are a number of other factors involved that I don't necessarily have a good handle on, or am just not remembering to describe. Pictures can make a difference, but won't necessarily tell us everything we need to know.

 

well, I definitely am tall, and proportionally long legged. That was the root cause of not being balanced when standing, earlier. I had to make huge adjustments to the bars to bring them up, much more than normally recommended. I finally got a clue from the clydesdale forum. I'm a featherweight, but their workarounds being super tall applied to me.

Anyways, that fixed the standing part, so this is the seated issue now. And yes the seat is quite high relative to the bars compared to a normal person.

I'll see what I can do with the seat, it's already as far back as it goes on the rails by simply loosening nad sliding the seat. Maybe there's something else I can consider.

 

I'll see what I can do with the seat, it's already as far back as it goes on the rails by simply loosening nad sliding the seat. Maybe there's something else I can consider.

The bike might be too small. How tall are you and what bike are you on?

 

Many bikes today are designed to give the experience you describe, by reducing stack height. Lower stack heights place a rider in a more “aggressive” downhill position with the handlebars being more weighted. The increased weight on the front plants the front tire for better turning.

With that said, I can’t stand low stack heights. A low stack, to me, is only optimal when aggressively riding downhill or climbing steeper grades. The design is not best for long, beater rides with a lot of rolling and/or rocky terrain. This is especially true on long rides when backpacks are generally heavier.

i opt for a bar height that’s even or slightly higher than my seat. For me, it’s more comfortable over the long haul (literally).

 

I don't think you want no weight on your hands/handle bars being seated . But you don't want to have to support your upper body with your arms either. You could try a higher stem or higher rise bars. Or figure out how to transfer more weight to your saddle while riding there.

 

Had a similar issue on my oiz when I got it. Never an issue on other bikes, so after much measuring and comparing spec shortened stem by 10mm and hand pain is gone. Feel much more balanced and standing is no different. Guess I was a bit too stretched out and the 10mm got my balance neutral again.

 

thread needs pics

 

You might have the wrong sized bike. You might just need a proper bike fit.

Tilting the nose if the seat up slightly higher than exactly level usually helps get weight off the hands.

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If you have extra steerer tube spacers above the stem you could swap them below the stem to raise handlebar height for free.

 

Bars with greater rise should sort it out [emoji106]

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I felt like you also. It felt uncomfortable for me to have too much weight on the front handlebars. For longer rides it got tiring fast. I only measure 5' 10" with my clipless shoes on but I like to have a longer extension on my legs while pedaling even though my bike is medium size with 165mm crank length. So my saddle height is slightly higher than average. I by chance was in the market for a new fork. So when I installed it I cut the steerer tube much longer than what the stock height was. A good 5" inches of height was added to my handlebars. At the same time I upgraded my stem to a short 40mm stem. So now the bars are higher, and closer to me. It feels so good, so comfortable. Look into a stem/handlebar setup with the right rise/sweep possibly that would help you.

 

Are you able to post a pic of the bike, and of you on the bike, both from the side?

 

The tilt of your saddle can have a large impact on how much weight is on your hands. With the nose tilted down your hips will want to roll forward causing hand pressure. Try experimenting with the tile. I like a very level saddle. When the nose starts pointing up too high you'll notice it not being comfortable.

If you feel you need to point the nose of the saddle down to maintain comfort for the boys, you may want to look at a different saddle. The WTB silverado has been a great saddle for me. Before I discovered that saddel 10 years ago I played musical saddles and have a box full in the attic.

 

The saddle issue is another one.

On my most recent bike, a Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead, I had to get used to a steeper seat tube than most of my previous ones. I learned that saddled that I liked before didn't work. Namely, ANY flare on the back of the saddle pushed me forward onto the bars even more. I got shoulder soreness from it.

When I switched to a saddle that was completely flat, that completely eliminated the issue.

Crank length is another one. Shorter cranks mean you're going to have to raise your saddle more to get a comfortable leg extension. Longer cranks will let you drop that saddle a little. It's only a few mm in the grand scheme of things, but if you're on super short cranks, it could make a notable difference in comfort.

 

Crank length is another one. Shorter cranks mean you're going to have to raise your saddle more to get a comfortable leg extension. Longer cranks will let you drop that saddle a little. It's only a few mm in the grand scheme of things, but if you're on super short cranks, it could make a notable difference in comfort.

I feel like this is the week I am constantly missing something. Shorter crank arms mean your saddle should go up? Aren't you reducing the maximum pedal extension with a shorter arm? Wouldn't that mean a slightly lower saddle?

 

An exercise that someone showed me that has helped me set the seat position and handlebar position requires either a trainer (ideal) or a stand you can sit on the bike without falling over or someone helping hold your bike upright. If on a trainer you pedal at a comfortable resistance and cadance. Put your arms behind your back at the base of your spine and slowly start tilting over until you find your spine angle that you are comfortable holding without using your arms. You want to shoot for this spine angle. People are built differently with different muscle strengths and weight distribution so this angle differs from person to person. When you reach forward to grab your handlebar the weight of your arms will move your center of gravity forward slightly which puts a very slight bit of weight on your hands. You shouldn't have to roll your shoulders forward to grab the handlebar. You also don't want it in your chest like you are doing a pushup. Moving the saddle forward and back will also change this spine angle. I get the saddle position set first into a position that doesn't hurt my knees and feels like I'm using the most muscle groups then move to setting the handlebars to match my prefered spine angle.

 

I get the saddle position set first into a position that doesn't hurt my knees and feels like I'm using the most muscle groups.

Me too I then work by feel to set stem length and height, but I'll try your technique to see what happens. Thanks!

 

I have this issue on my Specialized Pitch. I loaned my bike out to someone else and they commented on it as well, without me mentioning it. Very leaned forward and weight on my hands.