Funny thing is that's the same for me. My E13 cranks kept coming loose, like every couple hundred yards. I didn't even want to deal with E13. As soon as I got home I found those exact Turbines on Backcountry. I ordered a 34T from somewhere else and a Cane Creek aluminum preload ring. They're on my single speed, are stiff, and most of all, look good. I still have the NOS 32T ring if anyone needs it.

 

Whatever saddle came on my Canyon Road bike got replaced after two sport rides around the neighborhood because i couldn't do more than 10 miles on it.

The quick release seat clamp on my old Trek hardtail got replaced because I was tired of feeling like I want making any power because the saddle kept slipping down slowly.

The cheapo Sensah SRX shifters on my road bike shift just poorly enough to be aggravating but well enough to be usable. There's a Microshift Sword groupset waiting on the garage for me to have free time.

 

Happens almost every time, I'll have something drive me nuts during a ride and then I'll promptly forget about it as soon as I get back to the truck or get home. Next ride I start pedaling and dammit, I forgot to deal with that thing.

 

Put a couple of Specialized tyres on my hardtail with GRID casing font and rear. Second ride on them hit a square edged rock coming down fast double track and put a huge dent in the rear rim - sealant everywhere, wouldn't hold air and the rim bed itself was dented so couldn't bend it back properly. I've never run inserts before but I wanted to give the tyres a proper try, so once I got the rim replaced I fitted a Rimpact Original V2 insert in the rear.

I haven't dinged the rim again, but the biggest benefit is I'm now running around 24 psi in the rear compared to 28 psi before the insert and it's a much smoother ride. I thought it felt maybe a touch slower on long smooth climbs but my times are about the same. The combined tyre and insert still weighs less than the DHR EXO I had on before.

 

My Hope brakes, used different Hopes for years but last year kept going through brake pads and the pistons kept sticking. Replaced pads and positions then a month later the rear wheel started to drag again. Replaced them about 6 months ago, no regrets.

 

Usually I do this with worn out tires I'm too lazy to change. I'll push them until they're really not that great anymore, fail a difficult technical feature because of traction loss, and immediately change the tires over when I get home.

 

Me too!
I'm either testing a tire, riding it in the wrong season, or taking it down to the threads. Most times it all goes fine. ...til it doesn't.

-F

 

1. Saddle.

2. Square taper bottom bracket. Nothing's inherently wrong with these for what I was doing at the time, but when I found I could get a wider q-factor by going to external bearings, I did.

 

Yeah, I've done the saddle thing before. On one Iditarod I was hating life so much with the saddle setup I had chosen, that was an immediate "in the trash" when I was done. The next wasn't great either, 350+ miles, but it was at least better because I ditched the suspension post for a dropper post, that was a lot better. But even still, THAT Iditarod I promised myself on the last 10 miles screaming in on the frozen lake that I was done with bouncing all over the place in non-race situations an I was going to get an FS fatbike anyway possible/immediately and make winter biking funner. The last Iditarod was better, I wasn't in the "throw away the saddle" mode immediately, but it's still challenging to find something that will work over that much time, be comfortable, and not induce riding sores.

 

Going through that right now with a RaceFace dropper post. It's not the disastrous v1, but the Fox Transfer they licensed/relabeled around 2020.

It has a habit of sticking just 2-3cm below full extension, and I have to explicitly push down again to have it 'snap' to full extension. It seems to have almost no pushing force near the top, as in even touching my riding shorts will stop it. It's never worked quite right. SO OVER IT.

It's 31.6, I have another 30.9 dropper floating around - I just bought a shim and scheduled the appointment to swap the ****** out. I'm doing that, THEN getting it serviced and/or warrantied. Not getting my bike stuck in 'un-repaired limbo' while I go back and forth with Raceface.

 

SixC -> Atlas cranks here. No carbon cranks for me ever again. And yes, the DH-only RF spindles are annoying, probably another 'benefit' of the existence of the Next R cranks.

 

The bolt system for cranks is so absolutely mental to me.
Doing things differently just to be different isn't the way forward.
For parts that sees back and forth movement there is simply no good reason to use anything else than a clamp.
Even a clamp like through axle or qr would be more reasonable than that.

Octalink crankset with play that I could not get rid off no matter what.
Threw the crankset in the bin and bought a HT2 set.

Centerlock rotors...
Same deal. Impossible to get rid of the wobble without unreasonably overtighting the nut.
The wheelset with the centerlock in now on the beater where it rightfully belongs. God aweful system as well.

Open cam QRs for horizontal dropouts.
Wheels slipping back and forth because the clamping force is ridiculously low. These things only exist because they are easier to produce.

 

Centerlock rotors...
Same deal. Impossible to get rid of the wobble without unreasonably overtighting the nut.

What wobble? And how much torque are you using to overcome this?

 

this past weekend, I was so convinced that my fork bushings had prematurely worn out that I requested a diagnosis from the manufacturer. I need to cancel that, because it's not the fork.

 

I buy some of my bikes used. I bought a SC HT "long travel" used probably 6 or 7 years ago. It came with a dropper that was notorious for sucking. If my memory serves me correctly the KS Lev. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong and that was a great dropper...but that's what is sticking in my brain.

I suppose you could say it was functional. But it was so finicky and had so much lateral (twisting) play that literally after my first ride on the bike I bought a new dropper and replaced it.

That's one of the only times I remember feeling that way. Usually I ride bikes or parts to either failure or boredom. As opposed to getting sick of tolerating nagging issues.

 

I could write a book on all the things that fit into this thread where bike stuff is involved.

And I'm still trying to track down the source of a creak somewhere between the saddle and BB on my Izzo, Doesn't matter if I ride dirt or road, at first the bike is silent but as the miles on a given ride add on, the creak begins and slowly gets worse. So, the bike seems to need to be "warmed up" before it will start creaking...

 

Well, not just complaints....and not necessarily outright failures like smashing a rim...just rides and situations where you decide "no more, this has to change"...

 

For me it was rear hubs. Too many brands to list. Fortunately, I found Chris King in '97-'98 and have been using King hubs ever since.

Alternatively, I did decide to end a relationship with my HS/College girl friend while out riding. I had one of those clairvoyant experiences and both us ended in a better place after-the-fact.

 

a semi-slick tire (equivalent tread to XC race tires) on the front after going down in loose marbles.

 

When I built my REEB SST, I decided to buy a discounted Charger 2.1 Lyrik Ultimate instead of ponying up more money for the unfavorably reviewed Charger 3 model. After all, my Charger 2.1 Pike Ultimate felt pretty close to perfect. However, I just kept crashing with the Lyrik up front on the SST - no matter what I tried (lighter oil, push damper, etc) the fork just never tracked the ground the way it should. Given that the Lyrik is a high-end fork already, I was determined to troubleshoot and make it work for me, but it never quite did the trick.

During this time period, the Charger 3.1 forks came out, so I bit the bullet and ordered a new Pike...immediately killing my desire to ride until the new fork was installed as I dreamt of a bump-eating front end. Since I got the Pike installed, the SST has been an absolute dream to ride.

 

nothingin the title says this has to be about bikes 😄

had a girlfriend for about 9 months (she was ok, but not the love of my life), and was often out with my girl friend (who my girlfriend knew) just having a good time, and always innocent, no "naughty naughty". Often later my girlfriend would meet up with us and carry on through the evening together.
One night (we hadn't even drank much) we were dancing and got pushed together, something "tweeked", we kissed.......and l knew it was right
long story short......
same night l split up with my girlfriend, and my girl friend and I have been married since 1998 😁

EDIT: to clear after l split up with my girlfriend, l hightailed to my future wifes place, and we just hung out, it was so cool. To be further clear we have known each other since 1989, but came together around 1994

 

DHF.

Also, the 170 mm dropper that came on my Rallon had to go so I could put in a 210.

 

What are your stories? The things that happen on rides, not total failures, but abrupt realizations that "I am not going to deal with this anymore" and your first thing you do when you get home is order what you should have gotten in the first place.

Last one was was the SRAM XX1 cranks on my Mutz last week. Served me great, or so I thought. Got so many pedal strikes a few days ago, broke a pedal, bouncing my cranks/pedals off way too many things. Due to being better when the snow starts coming down (and it has), I knew I didn't need to go crazy short, but 165 has worked for me on two bikes, with similar proximal "I'm putting and end to this"-rides.

Nothing against the XX1 cranks, they've been solid...and still are...and I still roll em on my fattest fatty because the 27.5 cakeater 4.5 is absolutely massive compared to most everything else, dwarfs a Johnny 5 in every direction, if you follow fat tires. So it obviously doesn't need the help. Raced the XX1 cranks so many times on multiple bikes...were just solid.

But it wasn't quite simple to do this. Wanted a 30mm spindle for compatibility with my current spindle and the far more available/quality 30mm bearings that are part of that standard. Ideally same RF/Sram spindle standard. The Foes is 177 rear end, 169mm spindle though. Not a lot of decent options in this area, like the bloody expensive Hope cranks. And fatbike cranks are not needed if it's the RF/Sram standard. Unfortunately, I thought Atlas was the same, and it came in pretty colors. A shop owner warned me that it was not possible to interchange RF "DH" and "normal" Cinch axles though, they look the same, but have some slight machining differences and won't tighten. So canceling that order, got the turbines. The turbines were easy to pop the axle off, just install the self-extracting bolt on the opposite side and the spindle pops off. SRAM not so simple, no threads for the self extracting bolt on L chainring. So I made a "press" to do it and it popped off nicely (had to get the spacing just right...which is why cassette gears are poking out. Then I'm waiting on a 0mm cassette, but spaced them over for now to not rub on the tire.

Anyway, what is your "full stop, I'm fixing this now and not riding again until I do!" stories?

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Anyway

I only had a couple things that were nearly-instantly replaced. Maxxis Rekon+ (was a 27.5x2.8) threw me on the ground multiple times and I instantly replaced it. Second was a specific WTB volt saddle after a 30-mile ride. Replaced with a Silverado.

By the way, looks like Hope has cranks as short as 135mm now:

EVO: THE EVERYTHING CRANK

 

the 27.5 cakeater 4.5 is absolutely massive compared to most everything else, dwarfs a Johnny 5 in every direction

Why do you have such a blind spot here?

CE is taller. J5 is wider.

 

The Silverado on my Tallboy and whatever came on my Rail 7 could stand either . Also the tires that came on the Tallboy ,they were ok around home but at Tahoe ,they sucked.

 

1.Saddles - went through about 5 saddles from specialized, ergon, wtb until I fanally found one that works Sdg Bel Air.
2. Vitorria Martelo tire - it is the first tire that I remove and trash before wearing it out. The tire broke traction climbing all over the place, went back to my aggressors.
3. Sram gx 10 speed derailleur. It would go through a cable every month due to a weird angle the shift cable came in at.

 

I had a buddy that would wear a huge Fanny pack, and I would give him a hard time about it because it was so big that it just looked awkward AF. One day we’re riding down a trail and meet a couple of women hikers and I swear to gawd one of them says “what do you have in that pack, a pot roast?” He never wore it again 🤣🤣

 

That would be pretty sick tho, to summit a mountain then bust out a pot roast

 

EXO tires. Dented every rear rim I’ve tried them on. Straight to eBay.

 

SRAM Code R brakes. Came on my new Patrol in 2022. I broke them in, got the pads and rotors (200mm, btw) bedded in on moderate trails. When our steep trails opened up later that spring, I almost died on the first ride.

I attacked the steeps like I always did with my Saints, and when I got to the first corner and needed to slow down, the Codes just weren’t up to the task. Blew the corner, and off I went, tomahawking down the mountainside through a dense forest. Somehow I missed every tree.

After getting back on, I soon learned that I needed to just keep them on at all times in the steeps, and even then I couldn’t control my speed.

I yanked them off when I got home and installed my Saints which literally have twice the power…🤣🤣