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Switchblade V2 Pictures & Tech Talk

199K views 771 replies 150 participants last post by  robhurlburt  
#1 ·
I thought it makes sense to share some pictures & experiences between SB V2 owners.

Here are some pictures of my large SB V2 that I took during our vacation on Madeira.





First issue I have is that the lower shock bushing has play after only 4-5 rides. Anyone else has play in the rear end?
My V1 Switchblade had the same bushings for nearly 3 years without any issues. I'll take the shock out this weekend and get in contact with my Pivot dealer on Monday.
 
#35 ·
I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

I'll post more as I put some miles on it.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I just built my medium last night. Can't wait for the maiden voyage later today. I'm glad I waited till now to pick one up because I was able to score the new Fox Factory suspension on both ends and the new Transfer drop post.

The bike went together pretty well. I wasn't sure about the spacing for the cranks so I called Pivot. They recommended the following:

Non-Drive side: 3 1mm spacers and 1 1.5mm spacer
Drive side: 1 1mm spacer and 1 1.5mm spacer

This seemed to put the chain line somewhere in the 55-58mm range.

I plan to swap out the headset to a Chris King, the seat clamp to Wolf Tooth, and the chainring to a oval Wolf Tooth. I open to suggestions for color(s) on all three.

I'll post more as I put some miles on it.
Super envious my friend, I picked up my large green on sunday and didnt get the new 36 fork. :D Now Im just going to have to upgrade it to the new fox 36 when it's time to service instead of paying the $200 for the service. haha.
 
#119 ·
Hello !
My first 29 "
I owned before a Mach 5.5
A bike that I managed to limit in weight to 13.1 kgs

View attachment 1327377
I'd love to hear how you like the SB coming from the 5.5 (which I also have). The SB would also be my first 29er. Also, did you stay with the same size frame when getting the SB?
 
#43 ·
I have three questions, not sure someone could answer...
1. What is the weight of a Large Xt/Xtr with Reynolds carbon wheels or stock stocks Swiss wheels?

2. I know it says that the Reynolds wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail w/ Industry Nine hub, 34mm - is the 34mm internal width or external. I went to the Reynolds website and I think they are these ones? 34mm inside 39 mm outer
https://hayesbicycle.com/collections/reynolds/products/blacklabel-wide-trail-349-hydra

3. Are Reynolds wheels decent? If not Reynolds, what else would you guys get? Not too many options with super boost.

Thanks for your responses.
 
#46 ·
2. I know it says that the Reynolds wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail w/ Industry Nine hub, 34mm - is the 34mm internal width or external. I went to the Reynolds website and I think they are these ones? 34mm inside 39 mm outer
https://hayesbicycle.com/collections/reynolds/products/blacklabel-wide-trail-349-hydra

3. Are Reynolds wheels decent? If not Reynolds, what else would you guys get? Not too many options with super boost.

Thanks for your responses.[/QUOTE]

Yes Black label 34mm internal width

I've had a couple sets of Reynolds wheels. They are great quality and ride very nicely for me. I enjoy the stiffness and ride characteristics which compliments the switchblade very well. Also now that Hayes owns Reynolds they are offering a lifetime warranty. The Hydra hubs are great but the Reynolds hub shells are understated compared to he non oem shells from i9

You won't go wrong with other wheelsets but TBH I've ridden Derby's/we are one/enve wheelsets and Reynolds is on par. I've done some questionable drops that have pinged the rim with Reynolds and they hold up very wheel in my day to day riding in the rocky Southwest

In my opinion pivot has done a solid job specing their bike components and they all work very well in tandem.

Image


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
#47 ·
Thanks for the reply InJ3cted. Just to be clear you are talking about the “look” of the outside of the hubs are nothing special compared to buying the I9 hubs say directly from Ibis? There is not a lot of distinguishing marks on the Reynolds version hubs? They are still 100% I9 hydra internally though correct?

Thanks for the response on the Reynolds. I think I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a new switchblade. Test rode one a few days ago and it’s just so different than my current ride. Hard to compare.

Do you happen to have a weight for your green bike.. nice bike by the way.
Thanks again,
Don
 
#48 ·
Thanks for the reply InJ3cted. Just to be clear you are talking about the "look" of the outside of the hubs are nothing special compared to buying the I9 hubs say directly from Ibis? There is not a lot of distinguishing marks on the Reynolds version hubs? They are still 100% I9 hydra internally though correct?

Thanks for the response on the Reynolds. I think I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new switchblade. Test rode one a few days ago and it's just so different than my current ride. Hard to compare.

Do you happen to have a weight for your green bike.. nice bike by the way.
Thanks again,
Don
Haha man you opened a can of worms. I did some searching and can't say 100% they sound like hydras I have torches next to it and they're definitely different sounding. I dropped pivot support a note to ask because it's not completely clear.

Maybe someone else here can confirm

I have a team xtr medium and I didn't weigh it

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#51 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. Hmmm, I do know that torches and hydras sound very different. I guess if it has crazy amounts of engagement it would have to be some form of a hydra. One would hope they wouldn’t use an lesser internal hydra (if that’s even possible).
To bad one couldn’t get a coloured “legit” hydra as an option on the wheels.
 
#62 ·
A little help, I’m looking at a large pro build with carbon wheels. I’m not a weight weenie, but is there a way to get this bike under 30 lbs. maybe in the 29 range. From what I have seen, a team build (highest end) is weighing in around 30.5 lbs.

the only thing that’s left would be crankset, chain, cassette I imagine. Everything else is carbon. And tires.
Any thoughts on how to get weight down already with the carbon wheels?
 
#63 · (Edited)
A little help, I'm looking at a large pro build with carbon wheels. I'm not a weight weenie, but is there a way to get this bike under 30 lbs. maybe in the 29 range. From what I have seen, a team build (highest end) is weighing in around 30.5 lbs.

the only thing that's left would be crankset, chain, cassette I imagine. Everything else is carbon. And tires.
Any thoughts on how to get weight down already with the carbon wheels?
Wheels, tires, and cranks.

Wheels - The black labels are light, but you can do a custom set that are lighter (and more expensive, and probably less bombproof). I did i9's laced to E13 TRS Race SL's, and they've been pretty good for 18mos now (ran them on my Trail429 last year).

Tires - I ditched the Minions that we spec for some Schwalbes that work well here in New England (Hans Dampf F, Nobby Nic R).

Cranks - Assuming you're talking about the Pro XT/XTR kit with the alloy cranks, you can get some RF NEXT SL's that will save you almost 200g.

I made all of these changes to my build. The wheels/tires saved 500g (over AL rims), and the cranks saved another 200g. 700g is 1.54 lbs.

Obviously, there are trade-offs here, mostly in the form of strength and price. I ride pretty 'light', so the wheels have held up fine, and I've only gotten a couple of pinch flats on those light casing tires over the course of a 18mos. I'm also doing fine on my NEXT SL cranks that are 3 years old (knocking on wood as I type), though I have heard of others breaking them.

JP
 
#64 ·
Thanks JP. Thanks for confirming those are the spots to save some weight. Yeah, cranks and tires I see as my only options if I decide to buy the bike. I think I will leave the Reynolds rims as I’m not a featherlight. The easiest thing to save some weight I guess would be if I lost some. But that’s the easy answer. Also much less expensive answer.

I took a large out for a rip, short one, and I liked it. Just so hard to compare to what I am used to which is a 2016 giant trance advanced with carbon rims and 27.5” tires. The geometry is different, I sit on the trance and in the switchblade. The switchblade feels heavier don’t know actual pound differences. I’m a chunky monkey and my bike does feel flexy but not the switchblade.
The other hard part is the $$$. There is nothing really wrong with my bike and so spending close to $10,000 Canadian on a pedal bike seems absurd. I know pivot is a good brand and it is quality, but I’m questioning the $$$ as well. I mean I can justify my health is important and all that...but I got a bike that so far has held up and keeps me going. So do I need a new one? Uh, I kind of want one, but don’t need one. Common sense isn’t helping me right now.
 
#74 ·
Any luck with the cable slap problem inside the DT? Did the Shimano housing fix it? Its pretty loud.

Thanks
I haven't heard of this issue. A couple things to check:
1. Make sure your cable housing and brake hose are under tension and secure via the cable port covers. Tighten one end down, pull it taught, and tighten the other end down. If the hose or housing can pull loose easily, wrap a little electrical tape around the housing where it's clamped down by the cable port cover, and this will secure it. Once that hose and housing are under tension, there won't be any way for it to rattle around in there.
2. Make sure the cable rattle you're hearing aren't 2 cables slapping together in front of your cockpit. I spent the better part of a month trying to silence cable rattle that I thought was coming from inside my bike until I realized it was my front brake cable rattling against my dropper cable.

Best of luck,
JP