Yeap the same way you shorten them without bleeding. Theres youtubes on how to do it. May still have to have fluid on hand to top off the levers though.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

You should be able to. Just undo the fixing nut with an 8mm open wrench and swap the hoses. Just be careful lot to let any fluid leak out of the lever body.

 

I bought a new bike from CRC, but they sent it to me with the brakes in euro/moto/reversed configuration.

You mean the front brake is on the right?
I had a buddy who ordered a Commencal a few years back but the brakes were in the right configuration.

Sent from my iPhone via Tapatalk

 

You mean... the correct way?

I got used to moto/euro style brakes a long time ago when I was motorcycling and biking at the same time - couldn't keep code switching. That is one thing I like about CRC - it is easier to get brakes with short hoses on the right lever and long hoses on the left lever.

If you do want to switch it, first check if the brake lever itself is symmetrical - the SRAM DB5s I have on my Fuse can be flipped over and installed on the opposite side. If the levers are not symmetrical, then yes, you can disconnect the hoses and connect to the opposite side. You'd follow the same procedure used for shortening the lines, except you are connecting to the opposite side.

My advice would be to make sure you have all your tools in place and ready to go so you can do the swap as quickly as possible, with as little fluid loss as possible. It is then likely you won't need to bleed.

But mentally prepare yourself for having to bleed in case more air gets into the system than intended. Don't do it right before a big ride, for instance.

EDIT: Just noticed you specified XT brakes - I don't think any shimano brakes are symmetrical, so you'll need to swap the hose connections rather than flip the levers.

 

Is it possible to swap these brake hoses without bleeding the system so I can have them the proper way?

Yip. Just swap the hoses at the lever, spilling as little fluid as you can, and work the lever to get the air into the reservoir. Top it off with oil and you're done. It's easy.

 

Assuming you don't shorten the hose, you are saying you can just leave the old barb and brass olive in place?

I always figured you'd have to install a new olive to get a proper seal at the olive-caliper interface.

If you are saying what I think you are saying, that would be cool.

 

Thanks. Sounds like it’s easy enough. I hope I don’t mess this up.

 

Remember to remove the front wheel and brake pads, or cover the brake in a polly bag, in case you spill oil in it.

 

It's also rather easy to bleed them if need be

 

I never manage to do it without dripping. But it's easy to top things off if you do.

 

I swapped them. I thought I did a nice and clean swap, but the brakes needed bleeding.

 

Almost certainly not a full bleed. Just top them up and pump the lever until they're hard. Top off again, done.

 

Squeeze levers until pads contact each other. Disconnect line at lever leave compression nut on line. Cut line to length slide new olive over line insert barb into line. Reconnect line at lever. Using a screwdriver spread brake pads. Put wheel on with rotor pump lever up finished.

 

What Rngspnr said. Dont forget to remove the wheels, and squeeze the levers to get the pads to touch each other. This will move more fluid towards the caliper, than way once you're done swapping, and you spread the pads, it will push any air bubbles back into the lever, rather than leave bubbles trapped in the lines. Ghetto bleed.

 

The levers felt firm after the swap and a couple squeezes immediately after the swap. But as soon as I turned the bike upside down, the levers got soft and squishy again.

 

If you turn the bike upside-down regularly you really want to make sure the system is totally full of oil. With the bike the right way up, work the lever until the brakes are firm. It helps to lift the front end of the bike to get all of the air out of the rear line.

Once firm, remove the cap on the reservoir and top it up with oil. Work the lever a few times to make sure you work out any bubbles and with it filled right to the brim, put the cap back on.

 

Dont squeeze them when its upside down lol. Your pushing any air from the levers straight i to the line. Thats a given. Lever has to be higher than the caliper.

And you likely needed to top off the levers. Too low leaves too much air in there and it can get into the lines fairly easily.

Finally after having the bike upside down and flip it back over, tap the hoses and rapidly (repeatedly) but gently squeeze the levers, only moving the levers a small amount, not full travel.

That will shake the air back into the reservoir on the lever.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

I was recentering the calipers. I also store my bikes upside down. What’s done is done and the bleed was easy. I don’t know why I or anyone else worries about doing them at all.

 

I don't know why I or anyone else worries about doing them at all.

They're very easy eh?

 

Before switching the lines, just have your caliper pistons extended somewhat. Make the swap, open up the reservoir screws and push the pistons back in, close the reservoir screws. Thats should take care of any air that got into the lines in the swap.

You can do the same when you want to cut your brake hoses. I have cut them in the past using this method and didnt have to bleed afterwards.

 

Is it possible to swap these brake hoses without bleeding the system so I can have them the proper way?

Thanks!

The PROPER way.

That's funny! What makes one way proper and the other way improper?

 

Word. I applaud you Sir!
OP, both ways are proper, it's just a difference of standards.

Sent from my iPhone via Tapatalk

 

I've bought a couple sets of brakes from CRC / UK mailorder over the years and usually haven't had problems just swapping the lines at the lever. Definitely don't need a new olive/insert when doing that, though no guarantees that a bleed might not be needed later.

Shimano's instructions for bleeding aren't as simple as pumping the lever a few times and topping the lever fluid, and really there is no reason to believe that would work. If you get air in the lines you want to push it _out_ rather than pump it further down. Shimano's bleed instructions are in a PDF on their website and easy to follow, and if you follow them completely you should have no problem hanging the bike upside down afterwards.

 

Shimano's instructions for bleeding aren't as simple as pumping the lever a few times and topping the lever fluid, and really there is no reason to believe that would work.

For just swapping the brake lines, this is just about as simple as previously outlined. This simple procedure of just swapping the brake lines doesn't require a full bleed as defined in Shimano's instructions for bleeding.

Removal of the brake line at the master cylinder/reservoir allows air to enter at this location. Since the air is already at the master cylinder, a few pumps of the brake lever usually pulls that small amount of air directly into the reservoir.

In many years of replacing, swapping or shortening Shimano brake lines, this technique has always worked for me.

 

Generally speaking, you're not going to have any problems getting air into the master cylinder, but if you do...

Once the air gets into the reservoir, it's a non issue other than possibly topping off.

No bleed necessary.

 

Age & wisdom Mr Pig

 

Which one am I? ;0)

 

Visual representation of "the proper way"

 

Excellent link, mevnet [emoji1303]

Sent from my iFern using Tapatalk while not riding, dammit!