Using the chain length calculator provided by SRAM it indicated that I needed to use 116 links. At 116 links and 114 links, the chain hangs limp and the derailer can’t take up all the slack. So, I cut the chain down to 112 links and it works flawlessly through every cog except the largest. When I’m not on the bike and spin the pedals in that largest cog, the resistance is palpable and it crunches when I ride it. I suspect that 112 links is too short, especially with the bike loaded with The Rider. I’ve watched multiple videos and cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Crockpot2001
several assumptions, thoughts, and questions.
I assume this transmission is newly installed on this frame. if that's not true then you certainly should match the chain length from what was on before.
full suspension bikes typically need to be at the sag point. typically you would do this by letting air out of the shock and strapping something on the rear triangle to something on the front triangle. some bikes with a lot of chainstay growth need to be beyond sag, check instructions for your frame.
are you in the right setup gear?
I assume this transmission is newly installed on this frame. if that's not true then you certainly should match the chain length from what was on before.
full suspension bikes typically need to be at the sag point. typically you would do this by letting air out of the shock and strapping something on the rear triangle to something on the front triangle. some bikes with a lot of chainstay growth need to be beyond sag, check instructions for your frame.
are you in the right setup gear?
Transmission should not be installed with the bike at sag unless explicitly told to do so in the chain calculator (assuming this is the wireless version). That’s the purpose of the setup key/cog combo. I’ve installed Transmission on 25+ bikes and only two of them required setup at sag. All of them were installed with the chain at the length dictated by the calculator along with the setup key and setup gear. There’s no magic to this setup. It is paint by numbers.
I mentioned this is another thread by the one thing that I’ve seen trip people up is making sure that the axle doesn’t get tightened at the same time as the derailleur bolt is being torqued but that shouldn’t cause a problem in chain length.
https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/a...04710811-What-does-the-Setup-Key-do-when-installing-SRAM-Eagle-AXS-Transmission
https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/a...-seems-to-shift-roughly-in-the-repair-stand-compared-to-when-riding-Why-is-that
I mentioned this is another thread by the one thing that I’ve seen trip people up is making sure that the axle doesn’t get tightened at the same time as the derailleur bolt is being torqued but that shouldn’t cause a problem in chain length.
https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/a...04710811-What-does-the-Setup-Key-do-when-installing-SRAM-Eagle-AXS-Transmission
https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/a...-seems-to-shift-roughly-in-the-repair-stand-compared-to-when-riding-Why-is-that
Problem solved. I watched the video over and over and over and over until I saw what my dumb ass was blocking out. The LOOSE derailleur must be drawn back under hand tension before tightening. That solved the loose chain in the high gear while in high gear and shifting is spot-on. MANY thanks to all!
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