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Why is this thread so dead😴

Is it because everyone figured out the pump up/bite point issue and they just work flawlessly?

How's everyone running these getting along with them? How many got frustrated and moved to something else?

I want to buy new (powerful) brakes and these would win minus all the wondering bite point issues I keep reading about.
 
Why is this thread so dead😴

Is it because everyone figured out the pump up/bite point issue and they just work flawlessly?

How's everyone running these getting along with them? How many got frustrated and moved to something else?

I want to buy new (powerful) brakes and these would win minus all the wondering bite point issues I keep reading about.
Mine works flawlessly. My rear brake has the tiniest more compression than the front but that’s my fault for not getting a better bleed.

The wondering bite point issue only happens when you don’t follow the bleed procedure on SRAM’s website or youtube.
 
Why is this thread so dead😴

Is it because everyone figured out the pump up/bite point issue and they just work flawlessly?

How's everyone running these getting along with them? How many got frustrated and moved to something else?

I want to buy new (powerful) brakes and these would win minus all the wondering bite point issues I keep reading about.

Mines work amazing best brakes ever made, wondering bite point is no issue when are well bleed, here in Chile most of pilots go whith the mavens everyone it's happy.

Go for it u will not regret
 
Mine works flawlessly. My rear brake has the tiniest more compression than the front but that’s my fault for not getting a better bleed.

The wondering bite point issue only happens when you don’t follow the bleed procedure on SRAM’s website or youtube.
did you also turn the bite point "away from the arrow" prior to the bleed? I always did the opposite to allow me to make the lever tighter after the bleed. But I am having pump up issues, wondering if I have a bad bleed
 
did you also turn the bite point "away from the arrow" prior to the bleed? I always did the opposite to allow me to make the lever tighter after the bleed. But I am having pump up issues, wondering if I have a bad bleed
With Codes I found doing the opposite of SRAMs recommendation to turn the bite point away from the arrow to give better results. I bleed my Mavens following directions when I first installed them and they seemed fine. A few months after some hard use and they started to pump up/lever went to the bar and I had to constantly change bite point. I rebleed and there were some bubbles still in the lever, everything back to normal. I do think about trying the bleed with the bite adjusted all the way in just to see the result. I've never heard of logical reason why one might be better than the other.
 
Can anybody comment on the organic vs semi metallic pads?

I've never run an organic compound prior but will start with them.

Thus far I have found it super easy to get a good bleed. Though after shortening the hose I started caliper up... just makes a lot more sense then calipered down as that's where the air is going to be.
 
Can anybody comment on the organic vs semi metallic pads?

I've never run an organic compound prior but will start with them.

Thus far I have found it super easy to get a good bleed. Though after shortening the hose I started caliper up... just makes a lot more sense then calipered down as that's where the air is going to be.
I started with organic since at that time I was doing all trail rides and early reviews were that the power level was so high organic was better to tame them. They seemed fine but I then switched to metallic when the bike park opened and I preferred the modulation/power ramp better than organic. Organic felt grabby at the beginning, and it took a while to not lock the rear in situations it was never a problem. Total power for each feels the same to me, I preferred the modulation of the metallic. I previously used MTX's on my Codes and really liked them, waiting for those to hopefully be available soon.
 
In the event it helps anybody with pump up/wondering issues, make sure your hose compression nut is 8NM. It's comparatively a lot of torque and the compression fitting compresses a lot. These 2 things combined would make it very difficult to get correct without the provided crow's foot and a torque wrench.
 
In the event it helps anybody with pump up/wondering issues, make sure your hose compression nut is 8NM. It's comparatively a lot of torque and the compression fitting compresses a lot. These 2 things combined would make it very difficult to get correct without the provided crow's foot and a torque wrench.
Suggesting a leak at the olive could cause lever pump up?
 
when I bought Maven's they had organic pads and I was sceptical about them, I mostly ride our local park and the organic pads turned out to be good even in wet & muddy conditions.
when the rear set wore out the next set I bought were semi-metalic and I fitted them in the front ('old' fronts in rear
to try the least used brake 🤭 )
semi's have more initial bite and much louder than the organic pads (oem Sram pads used.)

Rich.
 
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