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I didn't read every post here, but there is no way to fix what is being described. The 50T is a narrow wide cog. Under load when actually riding the bike, it should shift just fine. I have eagle on my bike and it seems to work, I had one issue when i was going up a hill (not even sure you can call it a hill more like rock walls) i could barely turn the pedals at like 20 rpm, I shifted to the 50T and the chain popped off. So for some of you low RPM "oh crap i need to shift" shifting may be causing some issues.

In a repair stand with no load you have a 50/50 chance of the chain riding up like that. Also if you loose your chain riding, do not try to put it back on the 50T shift and put it back on another gear.

To an above post it's all the eagle not just GX. One thing I've noticed about GX eagle is it's very sensitive to hanger alignment. XX XO far less so.
The derailer adjustment is super finicky, your gonna have to really spend some time adjusting this thing to almost precise specs, especially the B adjustment. Good luck!!

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Add to my comment above... My brother n law got the GX Eagle and he had the lbs install it, turns out they didn't fine tune it and he was having all kinds of shifting issues, riding the 50 and it would want to jump down one under pressure, and we're talking any little pressure, so we adjusted the tension on the cable from the shifter. We tightened the tension. We found out that the high limit screw needed a little adjustment as well and then checked the B tension with the little red plastic tool SRAM ships with all their derailers, and yup... That was way off too! You need to adjust the B screw limit under your normal sag from rear suspension. After all those settings dialed In we could not get that to shift bad or skip drop whatever no matter how hard we tried.

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Thought I'd bump this thread with my experience. I just built up a SC 5010 for the Mrs. using the GX eagle. I had this issue with the 2nd cog failing to sync. I tried a number of adjustments to solve the issue and a few things helped lessen it, but nothing made it disappear completely. I also found it more pronounced when shifting up the block 2-3 gears and into the 2nd cog. In this scenario, the chain would ride on the top teeth of the 2nd cog for half a crank or so, then fall into place. If I came down from the largest cog, it would miss syncing about every 10-15 links.

I decided to trouble shoot the issue by putting my rear wheel and its own cassette on her bike. Same thing occurred. This helped determine it had to be the derailleur, so I returned it to the online dealer and got the XO1 model, mostly because it had go on sale. When I installed it there was zero syncing issues and it has run flawlessly since.

I had installed the GX eagle on my own bike about six months prior. It was not an easy DT to install for someone of my skill level, but I followed Sram's online video for installation and tweaked it until I got it working perfectly. I have had zero issue with it in 700+ miles of riding.
 
Thought I'd bump this thread with my experience. I just built up a SC 5010 for the Mrs. using the GX eagle. I had this issue with the 2nd cog failing to sync. I tried a number of adjustments to solve the issue and a few things helped lessen it, but nothing made it disappear completely. I also found it more pronounced when shifting up the block 2-3 gears and into the 2nd cog. In this scenario, the chain would ride on the top teeth of the 2nd cog for half a crank or so, then fall into place. If I came down from the largest cog, it would miss syncing about every 10-15 links.

I decided to trouble shoot the issue by putting my rear wheel and its own cassette on her bike. Same thing occurred. This helped determine it had to be the derailleur, so I returned it to the online dealer and got the XO1 model, mostly because it had go on sale. When I installed it there was zero syncing issues and it has run flawlessly since.

I had installed the GX eagle on my own bike about six months prior. It was not an easy DT to install for someone of my skill level, but I followed Sram's online video for installation and tweaked it until I got it working perfectly. I have had zero issue with it in 700+ miles of riding.
I honestly believe all Eagle drivetrains do this - there is no way around it. The 42/50 are narrow-wide and at some point the chain won't climb into those gears sync'd corretly. I have XO1 and it does it. My buddies have GX and they both do it. Sram will tell you they know about it. It's more pronounced when not under load in a stand as when you are riding it if it climbs up out of sync it will quickly re-sync sometimes seemlessly sometimes with a small noise.
 
The same flaw exists on the "new" SRAM ex1 8 speed drivetrain. New since 2016.

I was able to get the skip to happen less frequently by using a caliper to set the derailluer gap.

The plastic detailluer gage is unique to the 8 speed ex1 and difficult to find.
 
The same flaw exists on the "new" SRAM ex1 8 speed drivetrain. New since 2016.

I was able to get the skip to happen less frequently by using a caliper to set the derailluer gap.

The plastic detailluer gage is unique to the 8 speed ex1 and difficult to find.
Yes, the b-screw adj seems to be the key here and I have the red plastic gauge to set mine. It only happens once in a while and I just don't notice it really.
 
I actually caught my eagle on a hard tail doing this yesterday in the stand. Never noticed it riding, and it synced up fine after a shift out of the big 2 and back
 
I have Eagle on several bikes, and experience this on and off. But on my XC race bike, I have a 12s cassette from Ingrid Components, with Eagle derailleur. It shifts much more smoothly in the lighter gears compared to Eagle. It doesn't have narrow wide.

Who back pedals enough in the lightest gears to prioritize it over good shifting? Maybe it's time to bring out the Dremel and sand those teeth flat...
 
Just stumbled across this thread. I have had issues with my X01 Eagle from day 1 and thought I was imagining things. I don’t even go near the bottom 2 gears anymore. After years of riding a SRAM 11 speed with nothing but silky smoothness, all of a sudden my shifts down there are loud and clunky and a bit of a buzzkill. So I just avoid it altogether.

I’m building a hard tail. Think I may stick with the original plan of trying Shimano this time around, after not having had anything Shimano for well over 5 years. Either that, or go back to the tried and true SRAM 11 speed.
 
It's an adjustment issue...it's finicky...my XO1 is smooth as silk..took some time with the b screw to get it sorted.

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I got Eagle on my fatbike and sadly am experiencing all these troubles too. Sometimes the chain just goes over the larger chain and just falls off :(
2 words...limit screw.

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Same here, after playing, learning, and fine tuning the b screw, lower and upper limit screws, and just aligning the upper cog to the 50 cog, kinda feel like an expert now...everything works smoothly. And if its a new setup expect it to need some more fine tuning after 50 miles...this set up is super sensitive to cable stretch.

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Unrelated, but I bent the **** out of my derailleur hanger too. I haven't done that for maybe a decade. And now I find out this is a common occurrence with all the Eagle rear d's.

My 11 speed SRAM was flawless. I seem to be having nothing but trouble with my 12 speed X01 Eagle, and it's still early stages with it.

Anyway, I will fiddle around with it along the lines you suggested and see if I can fine tune it. Love the range, but not in love with it overall. Not yet anyway.

I think it must be karma for all the times I was all over my daughter for horrible shifts under load. Now she just stares at me when we are riding along and all of a sudden you can hear my drivetrain go clUnK-gRind-clUnK-CluNk, echoing through the trees. All I need are some of my old Avid brakes and I would have a SRAM symphony of horrible noises going on.
 
Hi everyone,

I have a GX eagle on my Nomad 2018 and it worth gloriously the first 100 miles or so, but recently the chain is sliding inside the cage on the top pulley wheel. I had the chain replace with an XX1 and a new cage replace problem persist, taken the bike to different bike shops and none seem to solve the issue. This is happening in high gears mostly the last three, I have read that the GX derailleur is super sensitive and not as good as the XO1 OR XX1 that that is a reason why a lot of bikes with the GX have the XO1 derailleur. It is worth getting an XO1 or XX1 derailleur? I am starting to get really frustrated any help will be appreciated. Thank you in advance
 
He means it comes of the upper pulley wheel and lodges in between the wheel pulley and the cage. Happened twice to my bud. Ripped off and destroyed derailleur the first time and the second time the same happened and destroyed the rear wheel when it went into the spokes. I bet the engineer behind this clusterf$#! is lOK king for a job.
 
Like fisty said "He means it comes of the upper pulley wheel and lodges in between the wheel pulley and the cage. Happened twice to my bud. Ripped off and destroyed derailleur the first time and the second time the same happened and destroyed the rear wheel when it went into the spokes. I bet the engineer behind this clusterf$#! is lOK king for a job."

It gets loose upper pulley and wheel cage is now happening in the two to three highest gears, and once this week i dropped the chain shifting under power two the highest gears. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you
 
UPDATE:

I crashed and bended the GX derailleur, i replaced it with an XO1 and boy what a difference. It is crispier, smoother, and it does not have all that side to side movement the GX as, and it shifts great under power. Over all a better built, now i wonder it the GX derailler was damaged and my LBS did not catch it; any how after more the 40 miles and over 5000 ft of climbing i only notice one issue once when the chain was going into the 50t, over all so much better.
 
^^^there's a reason why it costs more

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