The S in RSC is for Swinglink, which is in the lever. It functions similarly to the Servo Wave mechanism in many Shimano levers. IDK if it will affect lever effort substantially. The C is for the free stroke adjustment mechanism. This won't really affect lever effort.

Larger rotors & different pads might be a more productive avenue to explore.

 

The S in RSC is for Swinglink, which is in the lever. It functions similarly to the Servo Wave mechanism in many Shimano levers. IDK if it will affect lever effort substantially. The C is for the free stroke adjustment mechanism. This won't really affect lever effort.

Larger rotors & different pads might be a more productive avenue to explore.

Thanks for the reply!

I just got off the phone with the guys at Worldwide Cyclery. Killer staff over there. Keith brought up the diagrams of the levers and calipers and compared them in real time. The calipers, only difference is piston material (aluminum in the R vs some crazy plastic in the RSC) and they use the same hose kit.

Apparently, the levers are a pretty big difference in the bearing/piston operation which must be the swing-link. His recommendation was to grab the levers and bleed it as that will essentially upgrade me to the RSC. If that's not good enough, i'll upgrade to 220 rotors and metallic pads too but i'm hoping this does it with all the reviews I've seen on the RSC.

Grabbed the Levers and SRAM Pro Bleed Kit (Ouch $$$) but the 15% off Cyber-Monday helped soften the blow.

 

Just buy https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/sram/sram-bleed-kit

This one instead. Got it myself. Works like a charm. Cheaper.

 

Saw that one, passed on it as i heard the syringes in that one and the regular SRAM kit were pretty low-grade. I have a tendency to overbuy to ovoid needing to buy twice so it was worth it with the coupon code. Only paid $78 shipped for the SRAM pro kit.

Thanks for the heads up, though! Good to know it's a good kit for when friends inevitably ask about mine.

 

Just a heads up as I never updated this thread. All the LEVO upgrades are complete, the RSC levers went on and bled without issue; stopping power and modulation are now AMAZING!

Upgraded the Fox 36 Performance to a Performance elite by installing a Grip2 Damper, threw my custom tuned DPX2 on the rear, added HUNT Endurowide wheels and Assegai tires. She's now a mobbin' machine!

​

 

Hey OCVeloMan, since you're proficient with the Code line (especially the RSC) I've been having some issues with mine. I've been building up my HT Loki for the past couple of weeks and everything is pretty much going fine. I've had the Code RSC on for a while now but the bike was never really used because it was originally intended for my wife. Since the frame size (M) fits a wide range of heights I went ahead and kept it for myself.

My issue is every time I adjust/align the calipers to the rotors and remove all kinds of disc drag and/or squeeky/squeal noises (and this is on the stand not ride testing) I apply light preassure on the lever and the brakes begin to make noise again... grinding.. I believe it's the pistons after engaging stay pushed out a bit making drag contact... even if I push them back in this will continue I suppose.. The system was recently bleed and there isn't any dirt in there because it's barely used. Any reason or remedy for this? Could it be that plastic thing you were talking about in the difference in the R and the RSC?

 

Hey OCVeloMan, since you're proficient with the Code line (especially the RSC) I've been having some issues with mine. I've been building up my HT Loki for the past couple of weeks and everything is pretty much going fine. I've had the Code RSC on for a while now but the bike was never really used because it was originally intended for my wife. Since the frame size (M) fits a wide range of heights I went ahead and kept it for myself.

My issue is every time I adjust/align the calipers to the rotors and remove all kinds of disc drag and/or squeeky/squeal noises (and this is on the stand not ride testing) I apply light preassure on the lever and the brakes begin to make noise again... grinding.. I believe it's the pistons after engaging stay pushed out a bit making drag contact... even if I push them back in this will continue I suppose.. The system was recently bleed and there isn't any dirt in there because it's barely used. Any reason or remedy for this? Could it be that plastic thing you were talking about in the difference in the R and the RSC?

Had exactly the same issue. bought new R rear brake, installed, and for the love of god could not get them adjusted. Even tried to Sue the procedures outlined in the service manual to no avail. Returned, and ordered RSC...

 

2019 Levo Expert

Hey OCVeloman,
I have the 2019 Levo Expert 29er, which I moved up from the 2018 Levo. I love the 29 Frame and carbon bike and am interested in your upgrades, specifically the Guide RSC levers and not the full piston system, any issues?
I see you have replaced the Front Fork to the Damper 2 Fox 36. Also note you are running Assagai Tires, is this in the 27.5 x 2.5 or the 29 x 2.5? I have been running DHF front and DHR II Rear both in EXO+ at 2.6, but ready to drop to a 2.4 DHR II Rear with a 2.5 Assagai up front. I ride in Southern CA so we have dry hard pack and rock garden trails.
No issues with the stock setup after 7 months other than ditching the Butcher tires and going full on with Maxxis.
Thoughts? Cheers

 

Hey OCVeloman,
I have the 2019 Levo Expert 29er, which I moved up from the 2018 Levo. I love the 29 Frame and carbon bike and am interested in your upgrades, specifically the Guide RSC levers and not the full piston system, any issues?
I see you have replaced the Front Fork to the Damper 2 Fox 36. Also note you are running Assagai Tires, is this in the 27.5 x 2.5 or the 29 x 2.5? I have been running DHF front and DHR II Rear both in EXO+ at 2.6, but ready to drop to a 2.4 DHR II Rear with a 2.5 Assagai up front. I ride in Southern CA so we have dry hard pack and rock garden trails.
No issues with the stock setup after 7 months other than ditching the Butcher tires and going full on with Maxxis.
Thoughts? Cheers

Hey Gary, I did the Codes, not the Guides. No issues, all worked (and continue to work) great.

I am in socal as well - Frequent Greer Ranch & Santiago Oaks as my main spots. The Assegai front and rear grips best in the hard-pack.

As for the fork, It's gone - i moved to a Fox 38 and X2 rear. The Grip Damper worked awesome while it was in, though.

 

Honestly not sure, I've not had a problem with mine. Sounds like you may have a sticking/hanging piston. After a good bleed, my pistons extend and retract exactly as they should. You may need to rebuild the caliper but it would not be the fault of the piston material...

 

Since my last post I remedied the issue with different rotors. I looked at the pistons and re-bleed the system and everything is functioning fine and not sticking... cleaned everything up... everything is solid now.

 

Quick question on the Code RSC breaks

Hi there OCVeloMan,

So I have the same issues as you had, except that I got the Code R breaks on my YT Capra this year. I had Shimano breaks on my previous bikes, so I am more used to how the Shimano breaks work (the on-off feeling). I am riding a lot of descents, most of the bikes on the trails I ride are DH bikes. So of course I immediately noticed the issue you noticed...my hands get really fatigued pulling like crazy on the levers to the point that it becomes dangerous. I gave them an entire season instead of changing them immediately. Now at the end of the season I can safely say that I don't want to use them again

So I started to look for Shimano breaks (I used to have Zee breaks on my old enduro bike) and then came across your post.

So my question is this: how much better the breaks got for you by the upgrade to the RSC levers? Can you get quickly to the stopping power of Shimano's (if you are familiar with any good Shimano breaks)? Does the bite point adjustment help you in getting a more on-off feel? In short, is it a big difference from the Code Rs? Did they turn into real breaks?

Many thanks in advance. I am considering the same upgrade as u did, just buy the RSC levers and keep the rest.

All the best,
Daniel

 

So my question is this: how much better the breaks got for you by the upgrade to the RSC levers? Can you get quickly to the stopping power of Shimano's (if you are familiar with any good Shimano breaks)? Does the bite point adjustment help you in getting a more on-off feel? In short, is it a big difference from the Code Rs? Did they turn into real breaks?

Many thanks in advance. I am considering the same upgrade as u did, just buy the RSC levers and keep the rest.

All the best,
Daniel

The stopping power difference was Night/Day - I kept the brakes on until i sold the Levo (I ride a 2020 Enduro now, went Hope V4 on this build with 220mm rotors).

Stopping power was no longer a problem. I don't have experience with 4-piston Shimanos (I've run 2-piston SLX and they were nothing to write home about) to compare but the shear power is on par with my Hope V4 for sure. The bite point, I usually ran all the way in - never had much of a reason to pull the pads from the level and induce more free lever swing.

I recommend the upgrade, 100%