[spsoon]

You have to work it in to the rollers after applying while it's still wet. Either spin the cranks for a bit before it dries, or work it in to each link with your fingers if the chain's not on the bike.

That said, I also felt it wore off too quick for my tastes, especially with the slightest hint of moisture on a ride.

 

[Shawn in da Canyon]

So 17 mile ride this morning, and chain is squeaking - started before the ride even ended. Either I got a bunk bottle, or I'm an idiot and can't apply lube (highly possible).

After soaking in Simple Green, rinsing, and repeating several times, the chain was clean. It was thoroughly dried and then a generous drop was placed on each roller and allowed to dry. The chain was flipped and again, healthy drop applied to each roller, allowed to dry over night and away I pedaled this morning . . . was dead silent for first 10 miles, then the squeaking started. The whole drivetrain only has ~100 miles on it, so its not a wear issue.

I dunno . . . maybe my expectations are too high.

Put a lot on, work it onto all cogs and rings, let dry over night and wipe excess off.

 

[greddyvox]

I too found that Squirt didn't work well for me. In a tropical climate like where I am, I suspect wax-type chain lubes aren't gonna work as advertised.

I found my chain and chainring would be full of thick waxy gunk that wouldn't drop off as expected. The result was very disappointing, and yes, i applied it to a completely degreased and dried-off chain. I'm now using Maxima chain lube, and my chain is definitely cleaner after a ride than when i was using Squirt.

 

[Thrawn]

Don't forget to give the bottle a good shake before use...

 

[mikkosan]

So most of you guys wipe it off? I find it too gunky on the casette but the bottle says to not wipe it off even if it seems excessive.

Will try wiping it off on the next application if it will improve things

 

[richde]

If you put it on the night before, with a drop on each pin, there's no residue.

Did a 42 miler at Cottonwood, wiped the chain, did another 12 a few days later..not a peep out of the chain.

 

[jabrabu]

It sounds like Squirt works pretty well in dusty areas, like SoCal and Vegas, but how does it hold up after stream crossings? I switched to Rock N Roll Blue for awhile to have a cleaner lube, but it seemed to be gone after any stream crossings, so I went back to Dumonde Tech.

 

[Joss002]

It sounds like Squirt works pretty well in dusty areas, like SoCal and Vegas, but how does it hold up after stream crossings? I switched to Rock N Roll Blue for awhile to have a cleaner lube, but it seemed to be gone after any stream crossings, so I went back to Dumonde Tech.

Im in the UK so no extremes in the weather,temps around 25'c in summer and most of winter is around 0-10'c.
Summer can be dusty,winter is generally just wet.

Ive never had to cross any streams but plenty of deep long puddles.The trails I ride are very gritty and Ive rode 15-20 miles in heavy rain with the seat and grips feeling like they are covered in wet and dry sandpaper with the gritty gunk all over them and at the end of the ride the drive train is still quiet,shifting nice and very clean compared to any of the other lubes Ive used in the past.

I was using Muc-Off ceramic wet and dry lubes,now shifting was always fine but it would sound gritty and after a ride be it dusty or wet I HAD to degrease the chain,it was covered in grey gunk.
In the 12 months Ive been using Squirt Ive never had to degrease the chain,I just use a soft brush on the chain,cassette and chainring when I wash the bike,let it dry and re-lube.I have done a few rides in a row without the re-lube and it still stays quiet and shifts great.

I really think the way to get Squirt to work as it should is make sure the drive train is spotless.
Before I applied the 1st coat of Squirt to my new chain I put the chain in a tin with Gunk Engine Degreaser to soak,gave it a good scrub with a stiff brush,washed with hot soapy water and back in the tin with clean Gunk and washed it again,then sprayed with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol to dry it out.The grease new chains come coated in is tough stuff.Also took the cassette and chainring off and cleaned those too.
It sounds like alot of work but its been worth it for sure.

 

[Joss002]

So most of you guys wipe it off? I find it too gunky on the casette but the bottle says to not wipe it off even if it seems excessive.

Will try wiping it off on the next application if it will improve things

I never wipe it off.
I just put on enough to run over each side of the pin and when Ive done the whole chain just give the crank a few slow turns to help it work in the rollers and let it dry overnight.If there is any overspill or excess on the chain it just breaks off when you ride.

 

[eurospek]

Where did you buy the Squirt lube? I know there's counterfeit Squirt being sold. Created a thread on it a year back or so.

As for wiping it off, I never bother. I usually apply the night before, or if I forget sometimes right before the ride when the bike is on the rack and dries during the drive to the trailhead. I usually reapply every 6-8 rides or so. I'm never going back to anything else as my drivetrain is silent with it. Before, it used to pick up ton of sand and dust.

 

[007]

One bottle was bought from an LBS. the other most recent application came from a sample given to me directly from squirt at SOC

 

[Shawn in da Canyon]

Yep, there is a lot of counterfeit Squirt out there. I get my Squirt straight from the source. Oh wait, that didn't sound quite right. You know what I mean.

 

[Joss002]

Squirt application...

I found these more detailed application instructions on the Squirt website that might help !

http://www.squirtlube.com/squirtlube-application.pdf

 

[Mr Pig]

When I degrease I use a solvent that was banned 40 years ago.

Ha ha ha, not MEK by any chance?

Just bought my very first bottle of Squirt, looking forward to trying it.

 

[007]

I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.

 

[xcbarny]

I think the chain needs to be on the bike, and you need to turn the cranks for a few minutes, and shift your gears, which will encourage the lube to get into the rollers and all sprockets.

I think with squirt being so thick, that it isn't able to work its way into the rollers, when the chain is off the bike. Also, with dry lubes, they say that you get a better build up after multiple applications, so maybe don't degrease your chain after each ride - just wipe of the dust and reapply.

Squirt is the first dry lube that I've ever been able to get along with. With all the others I've tried, the chain would be noticeably dry and squeaky after and hour of singletrack.

I do lube after every ride, since I'll wipe the dust off to give me better chain and sprocket life. I haven't really tried going for multiple rides without lubing, I'm just happy that its still going good at the end of a long ride.

 

[richde]

I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.

If you do a lot of time on the super dusty trails like Bear's Best or the newer sections of SW ridge, there's just no way around cleaning and lubing after almost every ride.

Just did 20 miles at Bear's and my entire bike is dirtier than after 42 at Cottonwood, and the moon dust gets shot right towards the chainring, so I was getting some dirty chain sound at the end of the ride. Part of the reason I don't like riding out there much.

Cottonwood/Cowboy/Bootleg/Telephone Canyon are my normal trail choices.

 

[007]

Yup, did 30 today at cottonwood on a fresh application and it was squeaking by the end of the ride. The only thing I have not yet tried is applying ON the bike. That's the next step for me. One thing I will say is that the drivetrain is very clean.

And telephone canyon? Where's that?

 

[mtnbikej]

I'm still not giving up on it yet - the instructions posted noted a good point that I haven't seen mentioned here yet . . . this stuff needs to build up a bit to achieve maximum benefit. I've got two good applications so far and will give another here before riding tomorrow. Pretty sure I've got the real deal too, so not worried there.

I'm motivated to get this stuff to work . . . dumonde tech (and everything else, really) is so messy, expensive, and just keeps the grit in the chain.

See I prefer Dumonde Tech....the heavy version. I get a week or about 150-175 miles out of each application. I'll brush it off after every other ride. The $14 bottle lasts me about a year, so it's not that expensive.

 

[richde]

Yup, did 30 today at cottonwood on a fresh application and it was squeaking by the end of the ride. The only thing I have not yet tried is applying ON the bike. That's the next step for me. One thing I will say is that the drivetrain is very clean.

And telephone canyon? Where's that?

Telephone Canyon is where Tin Can and Showgirl are.

Are you running SRAM? I have one of each drivetrain and the SRAM is louder as the bike gets dirtier, but goes away once I wipe off (like with a dry rag) the chain and pulley wheels. Might be the narrow-wide pulley wheels. It's pretty annoying but nothing serious as far as I can tell.