[007]

Okay, so this stuff is revered as the holy grail of chain lubes by lots of folks (including of course the guy who sold it to me). So I bought a bottle and applied as directed (i.e., spin the cranks and apply a bead, let dry, and wipe off) and holy hell this made such a friggin' mess of the whole drivetrain, I swore it off.

Then a couple weeks ago, I was buying some more lube at a shop and the guy asks "hey, you ever try [squirt]?" I tell him the story and he says that I needed to apply it the night before, let it dry, and I should be good to go "for weeks."

Uh huh . . . sure. So i get home, but this time, I apply the lube with the chain off the bike. One drop per roller this time, let it dry, wipe it off, and repeat. All seems good and first ride was great. 3 miles into the second ride, the chain clearly needs lube.

What gives?? I got a total of about 20 miles out of one application . . . granted, the chain WAS clean and there's not grit in the DT, but seriously?? Even ProGold lasts longer than that.

 

[PlanB]

A totally clean and dry chain is crucial before the initial application. Cogs, rings too. I just drop it on, leave it over night, don't wipe, just ride. After a ride I might give it a wipe to get any built up wax off the chainring and derailleur pulleys, but that's it. Runs clean in all conditions and lasts quite a while (I'm kind of OCD about it, so I reapply every three rides or so, or before a race.) I'm totally sold on it. Didn't clean my chain (in the traditional degreaser and a hose way) all summer. I did quite a lot of riding and racing -- including BC Bike Race -- and never once did it fail to run smoothly and come home clean. Don't give up on it.

 

[Joss002]

Ive been using it for around a year now and have had no problems.
I just add a drop on each pin,no mess or waste.On the instructions it says "do not wipe off".
The main thing to do is make sure ALL the old lube is off the chain,drive train and dry before using Squirt for the first time.
As for good to go "for weeks",I cant see that happening with ANY lube,I can go for around 3 rides ( 45'ish miles) without a relube,but since ive been using Squirt ive never had to degrease the chain which I had to after every ride with my other lubes as they would just gum up my chain with grey gunk.I just use a soft brush on it when I was the bike and relube.

 

[007]

Yeah, I soaked the chain in Simple Green and cleaned it thoroughly before the initial application. I'm giving it another application right now (off the bike, one drop per roller). Will let dry and put back on the bike without wiping.

 

[mhelander]

OP missed the point of thoroughly rinsing of all oil from chain. Even then Squirt pulls off from rollers some remaining dirty oil residue some first reapplying, then chain & transmission & bike stays clean.

Using narrow-wide chainring keeps chain inner cleaner, I'm only wiping outer dust off before reapplying.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Harryman]

I've been using Squirt for years, before I knew how "magical" it was LOL. I live in dry and dusty, so I've always been a fan of wax lubes except for the build up. Which Squirt is better at than most since it's not wax.

Here's my routine: Backpedaling in the stand, I'll wipe the lower loop of the chain with a rag. Then, I'll drip a little drop on each link on the top loop. Let dry or just go ride. It takes @ a minute. I do this between every ride, since I hate dry and squeaky chains. Before you think I'm soaking the chain and it ends up dripping, a bottle will last me at least a year. Use sparingly.

It lasts just fine for me on a mtb, and on a road bike for a couple hundred miles easily. I don't lube my road ride as often.

 

[Legbacon]

When I degrease I use a solvent that was banned 40 years ago. In a well ventilated area with a good mask and heavy rubber gloves and apron I remove the chain, dip it briefly (too long will eat the steel), rinse in water and dry. Then I carefully dispose of the used solvent in my neighbour's garden.

Seriously, I degrease my chain, rinse and dry before applying Squirt the first time. It is the awsomest although in the wet winter I switch to chainsaw bar oil. I bought 12 4oz bottles of Squirt a couple of years ago for $3.98 each. I'm good for a long time. Check Blueskycycling.

 

[spsoon]

I had a similar experience. It kept the drivetrain clean, but I didn't feel it was all that effective as a lube. It wouldn't last a whole ride for me before the drivetrain started getting more audible. I started with a brand new, degreased chain and thouroughly soaked it in Squirt the first time.

 

[johnnyspoke]

I do things a bit differently, but it works for me.

I apply a drop per link to the inside of the chain between the crank and derailleur, and then BEFORE turning the cranks I use my thumb and forefinger and wipe up and down a couple of times to work it in. It's pretty thick so it seems if I don't do that a lot stays on the outside of the roller. Turn the cranks until I'm to the next section of "dry" chain and repeat. Usually about 4 times to get through the whole chain.

Been doing that for a couple of years, no complaints.

 

[golden boy]

I do things a bit differently, but it works for me.

I apply a drop per link to the inside of the chain between the crank and derailleur, and then BEFORE turning the cranks I use my thumb and forefinger and wipe up and down a couple of times to work it in. It's pretty thick so it seems if I don't do that a lot stays on the outside of the roller. Turn the cranks until I'm to the next section of "dry" chain and repeat. Usually about 4 times to get through the whole chain.

Been doing that for a couple of years, no complaints.

Hey cool, somebody else as methodical as me. Yep, takes me 4 cycles to get through the whole chain. Usually I apply it per section, then just let it sit there while gravity does the work - maybe 5 minutes per cycle. If I'm impatient, I'll use my thumb and finger to work it in like johnnyspoke. Then backpedal the crank to the next section and repeat.

The beauty of Squirt is NOT that it lasts any longer than any other lube. The beauty of it is that ain't nothing will keep your drivetrain cleaner and quieter. A clean drivetrain will last longer. My cassette is 6 years old! Even applied every other ride, a bottle will last me a year+. After years of using only Squirt, I bought an oil-based lube this summer. It was so awful, I gave it away after using it twice.

 

[RS VR6]

I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.

 

[007]

I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.

I was in SoCal, and am now in Vegas. Was using the Pink GnarLube for a bit, which was great but I'm too lazy to order it. Then I was using Dumonde Tech Light for a couple years almost and it was just fine, but it definitely was not a "clean" lube. You could just hear the grit in the chain after a ride and it never really went away without a proper cleaning.

I'm going to give Squirt a bit more of a chance before I write it off, but so far it's not working out so great for me.

 

[PlanB]

I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.

This is one of the main reasons I'm so keen on Squirt -- it has dramatically reduced the amount of attention I have to give my drivetrain. Clean the chain thoroughly once , apply squirt and then never need to use degreaser etc. again. It's been amazing.

 

[43st]

I stopped using Squirt on my MTB, because it leaves clumps on the chainring. I still use it on the road bike. I would just spin the crank backwards and drip the Squirt onto the chain. Let soak then wipe.

Lubing a chain should be a quick and easy process. You shouldn't have to spend more than 5 mins before a ride. I've live in So Cal...so I can get away with a fairly light lube.

I think it's part of the reason why Squirt seems to clean so well. Crud builds up on the surface of the chain and sluffs off, rather than gathering between the chain links.

 

[RS VR6]

I think it's part of the reason why Squirt seems to clean so well. Crud builds up on the surface of the chain and sluffs off, rather than gathering between the chain links.

No not really. What I have found is the residue left behind from the Squirt is tacky. That is what seems to cause the clumps on the chainring. I use Rock n Roll blue. That lube leves no residue and leaves no buildup on my chainring.

 

[43st]

Interesting.. Mine is certainly waxy to the touch. I can knock it off with a brush and sweep it up with a broom. Maybe it's the temperature difference between the Southern California and Canada? No idea.

 

[richde]

I was in SoCal, and am now in Vegas. Was using the Pink GnarLube for a bit, which was great but I'm too lazy to order it. Then I was using Dumonde Tech Light for a couple years almost and it was just fine, but it definitely was not a "clean" lube. You could just hear the grit in the chain after a ride and it never really went away without a proper cleaning.

I'm going to give Squirt a bit more of a chance before I write it off, but so far it's not working out so great for me.

I live in Vegas too. Dumonde is way too messy unless you're rinsing and lubing after every ride. It's expensive too, even compared to Squirt, which isn't exactly the cheapest either.

Since switching to Squirt, I haven't heard any of the sounds of a chain that needs lube, and I'll typically go 60-80 miles between lubes...mostly because after a week's worth of riding my bike needs the dust knocked off of it. After every ride I wipe the chain off with a dry rag and it looks completely clean again.

I clean the chain, put a drop on each pin, spin the cranks with a finger under the rollers for a few revolutions to really spread it out, and then let it sit overnight. Haven't heard any of that squeaking/straining noise that means that the chain is "dry."

On a new chain it'll pull the old grease out of the chain for a while, which is where that waxy buildup comes from, after that there's very little and it's easily knocked off the cassette/chainrings/pullies with a rag or brush.

 

[007]

^^^ I'm giving it a fair shake this time around . . . . perhaps it needs a bit of time (i.e., more than one application) to build up. But what really irks me is the mess it makes of the rings and cassette . . . this time, I applied it off the bike and let it dry. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

[Thrawn]

^^^ I'm giving it a fair shake this time around . . . . perhaps it needs a bit of time (i.e., more than one application) to build up. But what really irks me is the mess it makes of the rings and cassette . . . this time, I applied it off the bike and let it dry. We'll see how long it lasts.

Off the bike is how I do it after a thorough cleaning. In addition, I warm the chain with a heat gun before applying Squirt. It helps to get fluid in the nooks and crannies. I think Campy uses a similar approach when prepping new chains for inventory. There might be a video somewhere. Can't exactly recall.

Anyway, I think the initial application to a clean chain is key. After that, it's like any other lube that gets applied as needed, but it has to be applied the night before a ride. It's worth it for the longer interval. The gunk residue isn't that bad. As it clumps, it gets shot off the drivetrain, ejecting contaminants along with it.

 

[007]

So 17 mile ride this morning, and chain is squeaking - started before the ride even ended. Either I got a bunk bottle, or I'm an idiot and can't apply lube (highly possible).

After soaking in Simple Green, rinsing, and repeating several times, the chain was clean. It was thoroughly dried and then a generous drop was placed on each roller and allowed to dry. The chain was flipped and again, healthy drop applied to each roller, allowed to dry over night and away I pedaled this morning . . . was dead silent for first 10 miles, then the squeaking started. The whole drivetrain only has ~100 miles on it, so its not a wear issue.

I dunno . . . maybe my expectations are too high.