Supposedly I'm getting the bike back tonight...I'm not overly confident but slightly excited. Photos to come when I get it back (if not tn probably tomorrow). Fingers crossed this front triangle is good to go!

edit; frame is in, ups was super late but everything lines up. Should be ride wrapped and built by Sunday night.

 

Please let us know. I have the same issue but I have just been riding it with a distractingly rattly rear shock. I just haven't felt like swapping the triangle.

 

Can someone explain "dual progressive tune" to me please?

 

confused too but I interpreted it as the low speed and high speed compression tunes are progressive in how they ramp in the dampening. I’m still not sure how that actually equates to changes in performance compared to non progressive tunes

 

I’m in the market for a bigger travel bike again to pair with my Spur. Some decent deals to be had on the new market. It’s been interesting re-reading this thread as I’d honestly forgotten some of my own commentary. I did own an XL alloy build about 19-20 months ago. I’ve been through a bunch of bikes since. I enjoy Transition despite some of the QC issues. I guess my clearest memories are the bike was big and heavy.

Me: 6’2, 180, 34 inseam, +2 ape. Bikes I’m considering: Spire, Enduro, Norco Sight. Riding in AZ, mostly Phoenix. This would not be a daily driver.

Any mid-tall guys downsized? My Spur is XL, but not sure I’d want another XL Spire. The large seems perfectly in my wheelhouse for reach, stack a little low, wheelbase is good. But the TT for climbing is scary short. Like knees hitting bars short. Amy insight?

 

I’m over in Gilbert. You can throw a leg over my large carbon if you want. I’ll actually be selling it soon, but you are welcome to give it a whirl either way. I’ve got your same inseam, though I’m three inches shorter and a +7 ape index. So not sure any thoughts I have would actually matter.

 

Thank you. Sent a PM.

 

6'1.75-2", 35"+ inseam, not sure on my arm length but proportional.

Absolutely love the bike but pedaling reach is tight. Would rather slacken the seat tube angle than add more reach. I run a 50mm stem and found a seat with longer rails to push all the way back. The seat made a BIG difference. This winter I bought a 50mm rise bar. I will drop some spacers and gain a bit more reach still, haven't ridden that setup yet.

I'd imagine a carbon large will ride way differently than an xl aluminum. With that said if I were any taller, even a smidge, I don't think the bike would work for me. So yeah, tough call on the sizing.

 

Have you gotten a chance to ride it yet? I am taking the opportunity with the weather and a wheel build to tear mine down to replace the front triangle. I might have it back together by Friday.

 

Didn't get finished Sunday, shop is closed Monday, so hopefully I get it today. Was out for a run on the trails around here yesterday and they're still super soft even though most of our snow at lower elevation melted. I'm hoping I might be able to get it out tomorrow but I doubt I'll be able to ride it today. I should be able to tell almost immediately that it's fixed though since I could feel it just standing and bouncing on the bike. Especially if I just picked up and brought down the rear tire.F

EDIT -- Stopped by the shop this afternoon as I was up there anyway. Frame is in the stand WOOO. So they put it together and made sure it all fit, took it apart, just finished the ride wrap, completely rebuilt all of the rear end too, and reached out to push to make sure they had the latest shock hardware. Should be going together tonight/tomorrow. Who TF knows when I'll have it back at this point but I am completely happy with time being taken to make sure it's done right. Am I antsy? Of course it's almost nice enough to ride again. But both the LBS and Transition, for their part, have been fabulous and I'm absolutely okay with the extra time/work to have this thing dialed for this season.

 

I picked it up last night. Parking lot ride says big improvement but I don't know when I'll be able to get out on it. Super wet here still and more moisture tomorrow. Hopefully you notice an improvement! I expect even just not hearing or feeling it when I go over chunder will be more confidence inspiring

 

In the event anybody is interested in a super nice 37mm seat clamp these are literally the nicest ones I've ever handled. They tension up just beautifully. I have found one up droppers have a tendency to creep down and creak. Even circumferential pressure eliminates that.

https://pembree.com/dbn-seat-post-clamp/

 

In the event anybody is interested in a super nice 37mm seat clamp these are literally the nicest ones I've ever handled. They tension up just beautifully. I have found one up droppers have a tendency to creep down and creak. Even circumferential pressure eliminates that.

https://pembree.com/dbn-seat-post-clamp/

+1 - this was the seat collar that completely solved my post creeping downwards on the Spire. This might have been specific to the Spire - haven't had the same issue with the same dropper on a different frame with a different (not as nice) collar.

 

I haven't noticed this happening, but I do feel like I've had to adjust the dropper initially more than usual will have to keep an eye on it. What is your riding weight if you don't mind me asking? Those clamps look super nice!

Dropper related -- Apparently my dropper cable was pinched hard in the frame and now the oneup dropper behaves like all the reviews I've read online. Smooth lever action finally, I was going to buy a wolftooth lever but now I don't need too. Almost as smooth as the bike yoke on my other bike.

 

My "fighting" weight is 225-30. I snapped the seat mast off my bike yoke and have been a one-up fanboy ever since. Just fitted a 240, love it.

 

Public shoutout to Shakazulu for doing a stranger a solid. I got to pedal around his L Spire today. Not as small as I’d feared, but ultimately too small for my needs. Thank you, sir; you saved me an expensive lesson.

 

Hell yeah. You love to see it.

 

What size frame did you put the 240 into? I have a XL spire and I'm convinced I can slam a 240 one up despite the calculator saying I can't.

 

Large. I had to remove the upper portion of the inner cable routing though. I first did this by simply inserting a post all the way which catches the top of it and cuts/breaks away about an inch off. I did the rest by exposing the cable housing and catching it with a copper pipe forcing down and ripping/ scraping some more out. Not for the faint of heart but is harmless to the frame and worked just fine. Really can't access the rest after the curve in the seat tube so unlikely you could ever fully slam one. I have 42mm exposed to the collar/ bump on the post. Also keep in mind I have a near 36" inseam.

With all that said I wasn't sure how much difference that 30mm would make but it really does make a big difference. The seat is fully out of the way, love it.

 

I’ve posted the issues I’ve had with the shock bolt coming loose for the last year since I got this frame, but thought I’d check if everyone else’s looks the same. It almost seems like the carbon interface where the tabs fit in is ovalized/misshaped.

I’ve tried everything from blue loctite, red loctite, red loctite and tape on the bolt, several different tabs/bolts from Transition, etc. Nothing has worked and it always ends up working loose on a DH and drives me absolutely nuts.

 

I’ve posted the issues I’ve had with the shock bolt coming loose for the last year since I got this frame, but thought I’d check if everyone else’s looks the same. It almost seems like the carbon interface where the tabs fit in is ovalized/misshaped.

I’ve tried everything from blue loctite, red loctite, red loctite and tape on the bolt, several different tabs/bolts from Transition, etc. Nothing has worked and it always ends up working loose on a DH and drives me absolutely nuts.


View attachment 2082021 View attachment 2082022

That definitely looks oversized, perhaps from it coming loose.

I chased down this problem on mine and solved it. IMO the shock pin grabs the bolt and spins it. It has be smooth and free of corrosion, the bolt and the inner shock pin. Then lots of grease. This way there's no friction and the pin can't get any purchase on the bolt. This completely solved my problem.

 

I followed up on my old email chain with them and got a super quick response. They asked for a measurement from eyelet to eyelet and then one for the shock hardware as well and said that will determine next steps.

Hardware measured an expected 30mm, but eyelet to eyelet was closer to 31mm. Fingers crossed still, not having to constantly worry about my frame getting sloppy mid run with a loose shock bolt would be a game changer.

Throwing in a garage pic of her just because I really do love the bike minus the couple of issues I’ve had.

 

I'd put money on you getting a new front triangle with that eye-to-eye measurement. At least I'd find it hard to think they'd say no to a frame that is out of their spec. Beautiful build!

 

They replied and agreed that the frame is out of tolerance. Asked me to submit a warranty claim and they’ll start next steps! Hoping it’s quick.

 

Thought so, my frame was out of tolerance in the same spot. Super glad they're taking care of you!

 

Well, unfortunately for now, they aren’t able to send me a replacement triangle because I’m the second owner. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t quite bummed out and disappointed.

They are however working with me to try and get shock hardware that will make up space caused by the tolerance issue… The person I’ve been working with has been extremely responsive and helpful, just bummed Transition won’t send a triangle for a manufacturing defect that has nothing to do with whether it’s with a 1st or 2nd owner.

 

Were they willing to do a crash replacement?

 

Tire question. I seem to shear side knobs way sooner than I would expect. I like to run DH/similar casings out back, do you think there’s a connection between softer rubber and shearing knobs? It’s happened with Butchers, Hellkats, Delium, E13, and Aggressors.

 

Aggressors only come on firm rubber and are one of the most durable tires on the market. But generally, yes. Soft rubber on the rear tire wears fast and results in undercut knobs.

 

I might have to give the Aggressor a try again, it’s been a while. Just very surprising how after a few months of riding (no bike park, all pedal) almost any tire I try will have half a dozen completely sheared side knobs with pretty fresh center knobs.

 

If you live somewhere with lots of rock and decomposed rock for soil, it’s not that surprising. Look for tough casings and harder compounds.

 

Looking at the Traill Boss Tough/Fast Rolling right now, actually. That might fit the bill.

 

I've had great luck with new Conti tires; DH casing, soft compound for the rear.

 

this. have the same issue with most tires, the new kryptotals and xynotal last the longest of any tire I’ve tried

 

Hello,

I have this problem with my spire lower shock bolt. It wont budge, almost striped the allen head. I believe this is where the creak/cracking noise when compressing the bike down.

Any ideas on how to remove it ? Maybe a bent shaft bolt?

Cheers

 

Hello,
I have this problem with my spire lower shock bolt. It wont budge, almost striped the allen head. I believe this is where the creak/cracking noise when compressing the bike down.
Any ideas on how to remove it ? Maybe a bent shaft bolt?
Cheers

Huh, can't get it out? That's the opposite problem some people have been having Sounds like its seized, when was the last time it was out? I'd go ahead and order a new bolt now (unless you have a local shop that has them) since you're going to want to replace this one when it's out if the head is starting to strip. Do you have a local shop that could remove it for you? Otherwise, throwing a little wd-40 or pb-blaster like penetrant on the thread side could help too.

The only other advice I have is stuff that probably isn't recommended but it's in my garage and no one can see what I'm doing haha

 

Have had the spire for about a season now( had the sentinel v2 previously) and the bike is honestly so good. Added a +1 angle headset which helped the bike steer in tighter sections. Been playing around with coil vs air with Rockshox.
RS 2023 coil HBO with 400,425,450 linear and 450-518LB progressive coil
RS 2020 super deluxe air LNL tune ( believe this is the OEM tune)
RS 2020 super deluxe air MM tune

I'm 88kg kitted and surprisingly prefer the RS air medium tune. The coil did give the best traction though i was sitting deep in the travel, if i went up a spring for support it'll be a tad too firm( a tune will probably sort this issue out). Air shock with 200psi(30/31% sag), LSC 3 from open, rebound 3 from open, no tokens and its pretty dialed. Currently tossing up between getting the deluxe tuned, the coil tuned or try the new RS vivid ( Believe there's a spire tune for those). Anyone tried vorsrpung tractive tuning? had my mezzer tuned with nsrracing and might go with them again.

p.s yes the shock is pretty dialed but always tinkering with suspension.

 

Have had the spire for about a season now( had the sentinel v2 previously) and the bike is honestly so good. Added a +1 angle headset which helped the bike steer in tighter sections. Been playing around with coil vs air with Rockshox.
RS 2023 coil HBO with 400,425,450 linear and 450-518LB progressive coil
RS 2020 super deluxe air LNL tune ( believe this is the OEM tune)
RS 2020 super deluxe air MM tune

I'm 88kg kitted and surprisingly prefer the RS air medium tune. The coil did give the best traction though i was sitting deep in the travel, if i went up a spring for support it'll be a tad too firm( a tune will probably sort this issue out). Air shock with 200psi(30/31% sag), LSC 3 from open, rebound 3 from open, no tokens and its pretty dialed. Currently tossing up between getting the deluxe tuned, the coil tuned or try the new RS vivid ( Believe there's a spire tune for those). Anyone tried vorsrpung tractive tuning? had my mezzer tuned with nsrracing and might go with them again.

Also 183cm on a large frame. 50mm rise bars with 15/20mm spacer under the stem is chefs kiss.

p.s yes the shock is pretty dialed but always tinkering with suspension.

If you like tinkering the Cane Creek Kitsuma coil has all the dials. I love my 11-6 especially being tuned for the bike and my riding style. Having two completely different setups is ideal for how I ride this bike too. I prefer coils on most of my bikes, I tried the SDU that came with the spire but the initial stroke was never close to as supple as any of the coils I've ran so it sits on the shelf now. When I did drop my pressure low enough I started bottoming out the shock pretty hard on milder drops.

 

I did a ton of testing with air vs coil and ultimately determined that coil felt better. But air was significantly faster with the stock Spire link. YMMV.

 

I've been fairly pleased with the stock RS air too. Never have I owned a bike and remotely liked the stock shock or tune. I just put a MegNeg on mine and am really liking it. Completely solved the weak midstroke and seems to react faster on fast consecutive hits. Also, way easier to initiate travel and drive into the suspension through my hips. I feel I was heavy on my hands a lot and now feels a lot more neutral and active.

With that said I was a big fan of the Kitsuma on my Evo, great shock.